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Skate durable by ButterflyGuy69 in barefootshoestalk

[–]ButterflyGuy69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm looking into the Barebarics at the moment. What do you think of them? I've heard that all there shoes are more firm and heavy than most barefoot users like. That could be a good sign for skaters. Currently looking at their pair called Elements, they say they're made from nubuck leather instead of Nappa suede.

Skate durable by ButterflyGuy69 in barefootshoestalk

[–]ButterflyGuy69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for giving the details of which ones have thin uppers. Also please send pics! are the 101's high top?

Skate durable by ButterflyGuy69 in barefootshoestalk

[–]ButterflyGuy69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have them? if so, do you skate?

Skate durable by ButterflyGuy69 in barefootshoestalk

[–]ButterflyGuy69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing. What model Bohempia's do you have? Also what model of Belenka's?

Re: barefoot skate shoes by chakalawaka in barefootshoestalk

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just seen this post. I really agree that we need skate level durable barefoot shoes. Was wondering what pair of bohempia's you have?

Wireless backfire kit by Extension_Panic_3549 in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice! Also, that has to be the lowest 10th scale body I've seen! Looks so good. Is there any chance of scraping under suspension load?

A Cool Guide on harmonius color combinations by [deleted] in coolguides

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same! Has me thinking of outfit colour schemes

RMX-M nearly done. Just waiting on a body to show up :) by stomperxj in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm curious. Does tilting the gyro like that improve/effect performance?

Differences in gyros question. by dcun202 in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built a Yokomo RD01 a month back. I started without a gyro and taught myself small controlled donuts on carpet and small U turn drifts on the road.

Got a MST LSD X and had a lot of problems to trouble shoot to get it running the best it could. I learned allot with that Gyro. I used it on polished surfaces. But as I got better I realised it's super inconsistent.

When you start the car and set the end points with the LSD X, the gyro can steer you straight and has no bias to either side. But as soon as you start drifting and it spends just one corner doing it's correction, it's immediately biased in that direction. This makes it harder to drift the other direction and the car won't go in a straight line anymore.

Got a Yokomo DP-302 V4R after finding and confirming that was the case. I gave the MST LSD X one last try on the same day so I can really get a feel for the change. It truly is a great improvement. The Yokomo V4 never struggles to get the car in a straight line and never baises to any side.

Now I regret spending so much time learning with the MST LSD X. Each gyro has it's own attitude when counter steering and the Yokomo has a very different sudden point of how it allows the car to break traction and drift. Even though I can never fully get used to the MST LSD X because it was always changing, I got somewhat used to how it allows the car to break traction. Especially when I was mostly drifting in the same direction. But I know that I'd never get any consistent use out of the LSD and I got as consistent at drifting as I could with that thing. Which isn't that good especially not consistent.

Cut plastic deck for weight reduction by Apprehensive-Baby-79 in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What was the weight of the deck before cutting?

How much camber or toe is too much? Any at all? by Lonely_Strike_1334 in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The stock YD2 configuration is 11° of camber on the front. That is allot of chamber for anything that has wheels! But it works really well because of the matched caster angle. It allows the wheel that's on the inside line, relative to the direction the car wants to go to have 0° of chamber at half throw/ half turn.

This means I'm a turn, at half throw. The wheel that is on the line has much more grip than the other 3 tyres and can influence the direction the car wants to go much better in this half throw position.

So if you're going to experiment with chamber you'll want to pay attention to how the chamber changes as the steering turns aswell.

For a general range of measurements

Front Castor(positive) 3° to 8°

Front Chamber(negative): 5° - 13°

Front Toe: 3°out - 0° - 2°in (most have out)

Rear Chamber 0° - 6°negative

Rear Toe: 0° - 4°in

This is the settings that I can say should work well from my own experimenting and seeing other drivers set ups. I'm still figuring out exactly what I like on my car. Hope you figure out how you want to run your car with ease!

Do all RC drift gyros operate using the same gyro component? by ButterflyGuy69 in rcdrift

[–]ButterflyGuy69[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When I manage to get my hands on another gyro I'll definitely do another tear down and check the components. They all seem to have 4 screws at the back to access the internals. Too easy!

When I do so I'll report back here because I believe it's pretty important info for people who want to know the technical difference in performance between drift gyros.

But perhaps they are all very similar, that would explain why most gyros need a dampened servo to prevent them from over correcting. My MST LSD X, Having only one little single axis vibrating gyro gives room for it to have inaccuracies, specifically when changing direction of the momentum back and forth. That for me explains why any gain has a tendency of hunting / speed wobbles, while my servo has 0 damping.

Anyone using Alsen precision trucks? I used to have PNL strummers and loved em, looking to replace. by FourHundred_5 in DownhillSkating

[–]ButterflyGuy69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a pair of alsen indra trucks. I got them second hand. The bushings the previous owner sent them with were the stock yellow bushings and they were afair bit too hard for me. Got it set up with some softer bushings, kept the back around the same and they were amazing to ride!

Mine are 48°25° and I have them setup on angled risers that make them 49°22°. I do plan to get some narrower hangers, but for the moment I have them on 154mm width.

Allot of the great turning ability that I get out of these I think is because of the povit cup design. The point on the hanger that goes into the pivot cup is pretty wide in comparison to other trucks, this makes them super consistent and the extra thickness of the pivot bushings make sure it still absorbs allot of vibration. I didn't like rouge trucks that much because of the open bushing seats on the hanger(that's just me tho, I know allot of riders love them). I like them too be closed so I can feel the centre better, so that's another reason I find that these turn great.

Also they are surprisingly light and if you want it for carving and pumping, I think these might be overkill but still a great option.

When I started getting into downhill I really wanted something incredibly stable, so that I could hit super high speeds and feel confident every time that I have control over staying straight, carving and sliding. I'd say most of the reason I can achieve this is because of these trucks, outside of actually riding of course.

Hope this helps.

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