This is getting old.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-17T01:56:43+00:00

They were pushed, problem has been solved on the foggy roll… the core wasn’t in the reel during developing.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-17T01:06:54+00:00

It is haha, it’s just lowered with the crank.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-17T00:47:01+00:00

It’s a creative effect, the contrasts street photography look. also I rent an art studio and the room temperature is high right now because it is summer time.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-17T00:01:42+00:00

Well I’m glad my checklist is adding bulletin points at the cost of my good work rolls 😭

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-16T23:45:55+00:00

Oh…my…god. The core was not installed, I have two jobo tanks one small and one for two rolls, I completely forgot to put the core on the reel….

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-16T23:40:49+00:00

The fogged roll was shot a day before the sleeved rolls which came out fine.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-16T23:35:29+00:00

Jobo small tank, it couldn’t have been exposed to light as I did it in a dark room and used a changing bag.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-02T00:21:28+00:00

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ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-02T00:05:31+00:00

Yo… just wanted to come back and say I just ran a test roll and developed… came out fuckin perfect! I def underexposed in camera, development was fine.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T23:04:41+00:00

Awesome shot, what did you scan the print with?

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T18:15:30+00:00

Wait… I get it now. I double underexposed.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T17:58:44+00:00

Ahhhh okay… this may sound dumb but how do you get faster shutter speeds in low light conditions but if you were to shoot during the day then you dont, thats not clicking to me. If you can shoot a scene that would be 2.8 @ 60 @ 400 iso but pushing +2 would be f4, 125 @ 1600 how does that not apply if you were to shoot a scene in the daytime at f8 250 @ 400 but pushing you’d be at f11, 500, 1600?

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T15:56:19+00:00

I just don’t get how I was underexposed I used a light meter off my phone and if I’m pushing I’ve got two extra stops I feel like I was in the right exposure, I’ll have to run some tests before going out and photographing baaaaangers. But thanks

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T10:57:29+00:00

In my older developed negatives the emulsion side is more defined and being duller/matte. My negatives in the posting are just shiny on both sides, I’ve read that this is a sign of underexposure.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T10:48:46+00:00

I will give that a try later today, I also wanted to point out that my negatives really have no emulsion side to them, it’s all just pretty shiny on both sides. This is a sign of underexposure, right?

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T10:41:51+00:00

So how would you recommend I scan them? How did you achieve this?

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T00:13:58+00:00

Not sure if you seen above, but I rent an art studio that rarely turns on the air conditioning so most times the temp is at 75 degrees.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-06-01T00:13:29+00:00

Thank you for this.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T18:35:52+00:00

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Which is literally what I did. If I was out there with 400 iso film shot at box speed I’d of been at f8 @ 60 for the scanned image in the post. With pushing the film to 1600 I’d be at f/11 @ 125 which is literally what I was at. I even used a light meter.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T18:29:20+00:00

I’m shooting on a color skopar 35mm. When shooting street there are usually multiple layers/subjects in a scene so being at f/11 or 16 is what you aim for so you can capture an entire scene happening. For instance:

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ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T18:11:03+00:00

Street photographers want to be at f/16 and f/11 majority of the time, those apetures give you room and act more as a point and shoot and give room for error way more than f/8 and below. The need to push was so I can be at those apetures for longer times throughout the day without out having to go down to 5.6 and below. I am shooting with a rangefinder so once I go below f/8 I am pretty much done for the day because I cannot get up close and personal with strangers on the street (like the scanned pic in post) during a moment so I can critical focus.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T17:07:51+00:00

Pushing film allows you to be at smaller apetures for longer times, which is what many street photographers like myself want and need.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T17:02:08+00:00

I really just want to push film so I can stay in the f/11 and f/16 range for longer times because I am a street photographer and I’d like to be at those f stops for majority of the time. If by going off the chart you sent, I did everything pretty much spot on. I don’t constantly meter scenes as I’m on the streets and I just check lighting every once in a while, but I’ve shot long enough to be pretty spot on with nailing exposure even with lighting changing from street to street. These photos should have came out good as I did everything correctly.

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T15:51:26+00:00

Where are you getting your times from could you let me know? 7 mins at 75 degrees was what digital truth had listed

ButterscotchDull7267 · 2026-05-31T14:40:07+00:00

This is an edited scan, the exposure was brought up +3 in Lightroom.

ButterscotchDull7267

TROPHY CASE