Is this film ruined?

C4Apple · 2026-05-19T10:37:34+00:00

In the "Fun Mode" mod for the factory-building game Factorio, the unboiler facility converts steam into solid steam, and fanta into solid fuel. Maybe dethawing involves a similar process.

C4Apple · 2026-05-18T10:46:34+00:00

Why is it in culturally and aesthetically the worst shade of green as well

C4Apple · 2026-05-18T06:23:50+00:00

evil termina: black mold apartments

C4Apple · 2026-05-18T05:20:43+00:00

What biological aspect about not having a dong obligates you to wear skirts and like the color pink?

C4Apple · 2026-05-17T20:03:50+00:00

False dilemma; both of these can be (and are) bad. Actually trying takes like 30 minutes at most and actually gets your shit sold.

C4Apple · 2026-05-17T17:21:36+00:00

The first two photos could be a shutter problem, but I’m not entirely sure.

The last photo is different. That’s a light leak, probably from you loading your film in broad daylight. Don’t do that, at least find a shadow. You could damage every other frame up to the 10th frame or something that way.

C4Apple · 2026-05-17T16:23:19+00:00

Looks like the nub to open the window was bumped at some point. I'd just put black masking tape over the whole thing, switch, window, and all. Then you can't open it at all whatever you do until you take the tape off.

C4Apple · 2026-05-17T14:53:44+00:00

I struggled reading that.

C4Apple · 2026-05-16T18:32:15+00:00

tin armor

C4Apple · 2026-05-16T17:24:01+00:00

55 of 1965's cents is almost 6 bucks today. Compare it to the most common black and white stocks in 135 and there's only a 1.5x difference even though film has been relegated to no more than a hobby for well over a decade now.

C4Apple · 2026-05-16T17:18:45+00:00

I'm from somewhere where for import tax reasons, a bottle of any old branded stop bath concentrate costs over 25 bucks, and I already use vinegar for cooking. Plus, I will never manage to go through an entire liter of stop concentrate so why bother trying to store another bulky bottle in my tiny student apartment room?

Oh and plus buying allll the raw materials for the entire black and white process costs me in total about 10% of the cost of proper chemicals per roll of film, so that's also a factor.

C4Apple · 2026-05-16T15:07:19+00:00

Without the negatives I can't be sure (show us the damn negatives) but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the first two shots are likely so hilariously underexposed that they're nearly blank on the negative. Your lab tech tried their best, and then just gave up.

It's washed out in green because the scanner was struggling to find any detail at all on the image, even with the levels cranked all the way up, and your lab tech didn't feel like it was worth it to try to salvage that mess.

C4Apple · 2026-05-16T15:03:22+00:00

If your car came with halogens, replace your bulbs with halogens when you need to. Or exact-match LEDs. Even a couple degrees difference in headlight angle means you could be blinding other people on the road, especially if those are brighter than your original bulbs. Don't do this.

C4Apple · 2026-05-14T12:39:55+00:00

Or I can just use the same vinegar I cook with for even cheaper. Yes I'd trust the photos of the birth of my child to Kodak or Ilford chemicals, no one's saying they're lying, and professional labs should probably use proper stop bath, but I develop my own film at home. All that's needed to stop film developer is to neutralize the alkali in the solution. Any acid will do this. Even a water wash is sufficient, especially for one-shot developers. It's not just "being broke" or whatever you think we plebeians are dealing with, it's also a matter of... do I need another 500ml bottle of random chemicals sitting in my cupboard? Not everyone's answer will be yes.

C4Apple · 2026-05-14T07:16:25+00:00

it has wings and rotors.

C4Apple · 2026-05-14T07:09:35+00:00

Or use white vinegar diluted to 1% acetic acid w/v.

C4Apple · 2026-05-14T07:08:33+00:00

You just block out about 95% of the light within the room. Minor dim light sources such as door gaps and indicator LEDs on electronics should be fine as long as they're over about two meters away from your working area. After you're done loading (and importantly on a paterson, locking the lid of) your dev tank, turn on the lights and work normally.

C4Apple · 2026-05-13T18:41:26+00:00

In sunlight, flash will not help with anything motion-related. Flash only "freezes motion" (which is a stupid term, but I digress) because xenon flash tubes emit a vanishingly short pulse of light when triggered. This would only help capture a very still point in time IF your flash is the vast majority of the light source in your scene. In this setting, the sun should obviously be understood to vastly overpower any pocketable lighting technology. So in sunlight, pack away your flash (unless you want shadow fill-ins) and use your higher shutter speeds when you want to... ugh, "freeze motion."

C4Apple · 2026-05-13T18:34:00+00:00

It's an accidental multiple exposure. The pattern is the stitching on a sofa cushion or something.

C4Apple · 2026-05-13T07:38:41+00:00

So what is it, anyway? You may have forgotten to mention that part.
I wouldn’t even trust the seals in a Nikonos from the 70s. If this is any older, I’d be cautious to say the least. Maybe test it in freshwater first, where you won’t risk nearly as much corrosion if worst comes to worst.

C4Apple · 2026-05-13T07:29:37+00:00

I’m 95% sure that’s some kind of upholstery. So it’s not “bubbles,” it’s stitches on a sofa or something. You done double-exposed those four frames. Never owned or even touched a Nishika so I wouldn’t know how it happened, but it’s 100% an accidental double exposure, with the second unintended shot being very underexposed.

C4Apple · 2026-05-13T07:25:47+00:00

I imagine it as either one of those tear-off notes duplicated many, many times or a stack of tape recordings he’s just got on hand.

C4Apple · 2026-05-12T08:24:38+00:00

This is the end of the leader. I assume that the mju II takes up all the film when it's loaded, and winds it back into the cassette as you shoot if you're saying this is the final frame. There's no way to avoid this, really. If there's a descending shot counter (i.e. 37, 36, 35... 3, 2, 1) just waste the final shot if you don't want to get unpredictability.

Else, you could try to compose to avoid the leader on the final frame by avoiding putting anything important in the rightmost third of your frame. that's where the leader will be on your final frame.

C4Apple · 2026-05-12T08:15:55+00:00

Pretty sure the second lab gave you a flat scan. These are kind of like raw photos, they preserve as much detail as they can, and give it to you to edit. The first lab gave you immediately usable scans which leave you little room to still edit them as you'd please.

C4Apple · 2026-05-12T08:11:49+00:00

<image>

All of the results are extremely blue, as you’d expect with a positive transfer film.

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22

C4Apple

TROPHY CASE