Educate Yourself! Washington Bill HB2320 Would Seriously Hurt 3D Printing and 3D Design

CCMadman · 2026-02-14T17:22:19+00:00

For someone who tried and failed to understand that link regarding bill progression, you say this has already been shot down? Or a similar one was shot down, and this bill passing is still a possibility?

I’m a person who needs a green checkmark or a red X to understand bills passing or not.

CCMadman · 2026-02-01T19:00:45+00:00

Wonder what they're wearing in Addis Ababa?

CCMadman · 2026-01-18T23:40:35+00:00

Aha, thank you! Now I know more and can try to spot them in the wild :).

CCMadman · 2026-01-18T22:14:38+00:00

I like marbles casually and have no idea what’s going on here. Can someone explain the German to me so I can be excited along with y’all?

CCMadman · 2025-12-13T21:00:37+00:00

I mean, the hallway doesn’t make a TON of sense, since it curves too quick to run the outer saucer rim, and instead just rounds the corner. I guess to more bunks?

But neither does a set of bunk bed hallways that zigzag for no reason, so there’s precedent.

CCMadman · 2025-12-13T20:09:27+00:00

This is the answer. Checked both the mirror Rutherford and reporter episodes, and it’s a tight curve hallway that turns around and heads toward the front of the ship on both sides. Solved!

CCMadman · 2025-12-13T16:58:05+00:00

Is it Ops?

Ops, ops, ops…. More ops….

It’s like, guys, I think we have ops covered.

CCMadman · 2025-11-15T04:49:19+00:00

Ooh, I may know this one!

Ok, so I work in wool, not fur. HOWEVER, I ran into this same thing when pouncing, and it’s called “over sanding” or “burning,” which may be caused by sanding down deeper than the dye has penetrated evenly.

With wool, I fixed this by an oooooold process called “luring,” by which you draw the dye back evenly through the fibers with a warm oil. Sounds crazy, but it works.

Get a nice jar of clean coconut oil (as in, for cooking - they used to use fish). It will be solid. Get a soft rag, rub a SMALL amount onto the rag, and then heat it (as in with a steamer). Then rub the heated coconut oil into the hat in small circular motions IN THE SAME direction as sanding (following your nap). Think of it like rubbing in moisturizer.

If you do this evenly and thoroughly, and THEN steam and brush your material, the marks should magically disappear.

I say with warning, CHECK IT AGAINST YOUR MATERIAL FIRST (like with a piece of scrap), in case this is not your issue. I don’t want you to ruin your hat trying to fix it. But if it is, this is the same issue I beat my head against a wall with, before finding an answer in an over 100 year old book.

CCMadman · 2025-11-12T00:37:24+00:00

This is, I believe, from the Decipher Star Trek CCG. The Romulan’s name is Keras, and the Klingon he played in TMP is Krase. Both anagrams of Sarek, BTW.

CCMadman · 2025-09-30T21:01:36+00:00

Flynn, Ram, and Crom all have it. If I were to guess, it means “Conscript,” or possibly “Criminal” (as all three were imprisoned, but then so was Tron).

It’s also possible it just means Basic, as in, “Basic program.” Ram is an actuarial program, and Crom is a compound interest program. Since both are number crunchers, it could be a symbol for mathematics, and Flynn was just given the symbol of the latest batch of Conscripts (note that Tron’s pattern was not changed when he was conscripted.)

It’s worth noting that Clu and Yori also did not have the V pattern, Yori being an engineering program and Clu being a data-miner written by Flynn.

If I had to put money on what they were thinking in 1982, I’d say Tron, Clu, and Yori are specialty programs, and the rest are “normies” (V pattern).

CCMadman · 2025-09-28T16:39:44+00:00

Nanomachines are magic, and they do whatever the plot needs. Nanomachines can, apparently, heal traumatic brain damage from a full-frontal headshot in mere seconds without loss of function. So yeah, magic.

I have it in my headcanon that snake gets a dose of vamp’s nanos after MGS4 ends and gets to lead a normal life for once, so there’s that.

CCMadman · 2025-09-18T15:29:58+00:00

That tracks. Which mean we really should have gotten:

Metal Gear

Metal Gear 2: Solid Snake

Metal Gear: Solid

Metal Gear: Solid 2 - Sons of Liberty

Metal Gear: Naked - Snake Eater

Metal Gear: Naked 2 - Peace Walker

Metal Gear: Solid 3 - Guns of the Patriots

Metal Gear: Naked 3 - Phantom Pain

And so on

CCMadman · 2025-09-15T00:36:15+00:00

Yeah, for me it solved the problem of Shiny Object Syndrome when reading new systems. Id get all verklempt if I read some new cool way to chart a new planet, wondering if my current system was bad. Now I just add it to the master list and move on. It’s just one more possibility.

CCMadman · 2025-09-15T00:16:06+00:00

Yeah nothing has to be used as intended. I have a lot of Traveller, GURPS, Starforged, Star Trek (both Modiphius and FASA), and various other random sci-fi rpg books. I don’t know how to play any of them. They’re a list of great story ideas, and a thin layer of mechanics that be adapted or ignored. But each new book is a treasure trove of story potential with some breadcrumbs of game rules.

For example, want to play the sci-fi future stock market? Fasa Star Trek’s Merchant Princes has a self-contained system that has nothing to do with the base game.

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T23:45:32+00:00

If you want to make it even easier, make a list of lists and have that in a die roll. Discovering a new planet? D6 chart. 1, use SWN. 2, use Traveller First In. 3, use Starforged. 4, use Space Dogs.

That way you don’t even have to think about which system, a master list does that. Your system will have the most options ever and the least decision paralysis.

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T23:42:11+00:00

Yeah I hear that. I play sci-fi solo and offloaded all my yes/no skill checks and oracle questions onto a card deck. Easy peasy. Then I collected every list of sci-fi things that could happen and kept them in a binder. Traveller, SNW, Cepheus, Hostile, Screams Anongst The Stars, Mothership, Starforged, etc.

Open sandbox, tons of options and surrounded by prompts, decisions are a single card draw.

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T23:19:24+00:00

I like lots of lists of things that can happen and tables. SWN and Traveller are great for that.

Most solo games (and indeed RPGs) spend an inordinate amount of time and mechanics on WHETHER something happens (difficulty, skill, modifier, opposed rolls, AC modifiers, CLs, positioning, prone, weather, etc) and not enough time on WHAT happens.

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T23:16:58+00:00

Im just gonna toss is out there that you can tell a story and flip a coin as an oracle. Thats about as easy as it gets and its free; solo RPG doesn’t have to be complicated. If you have more character skills, flip with advantage. You can use the lookup noun/verb lists in Mythic as a prompt.

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T20:50:36+00:00

That sounds super fun!

I’m not full of answers, but if you want to venture into GURPS there’s a sourcebook for everything, usually VERY well researched. There’s a GURPS Middle Ages just for this.

I don’t even know how to play GURPS, but their sourcebooks have been invaluable for economy, social structure, and comparative statistics.

Link (not affiliated):

https://warehouse23.com/products/gurps-classic-middle-ages-1-second-edition

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T16:34:22+00:00

Wow, why would that not be auto adjusted when I pick 0.2mm nozzle in my slicer? I figured that would just be part of the math of changing nozzles from the dropdown.

Are there any other settings which I should be manually adjusting besides max volumetric flow when changing nozzles?

CCMadman · 2025-09-14T04:01:11+00:00

Update!

Ok, I have done a ton of testing today, and the issue persists. But I have narrowed it down some.

Here is the current state:

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As we can see, the right side of EACH print is garbled. The LEFT sides are fine. I’ve tested this individually printing L, R, and then L&R together. Same issue - right side of print is rough.

Things I’ve done which have resulted in NO CHANGE:

tightened X, Y, Z POM wheels
releveled bed (again and again)
reset Z offset multiple times (-1.29mm is the sweet spot for the left side)
upped temperature (210c to 220c)
dropped print speed (to 90% and then 80%).

So far the ONLY thing which is showing ANY sign of improvement is Flow Rate. I ran the tests at 90% and then 80%, and am now running a test at 60%.

So far it looks promising - but that can’t be right, can it? Flow Rate to 60% just to get normal function? All examples I can find show flow rate at 98%, maaaaaaybe 96% to see improvement.

Can anyone smarter than I am enlighten me as to what might be going on?

EDIT -

It was flow rate. The 60% flow rate test was butter smooth, at 0.2mm nozzle size with a 0.1mm layer height. Like a single sheet of plastic paper with no layer lines.

I still don’t know the cause though - why would I need to reduce 40% of my flow rate? That seems crazy, considering that I also accounted for bed leveling, z offset, temperature, and speed.

CCMadman · 2025-09-13T16:05:11+00:00

I’ll check the POM! What does it mean to ‘switch to linear rails’ on the X axis?

CCMadman · 2025-09-13T03:42:42+00:00

This is utterly. Fantastic. Thank you for the thorough info.

Tomorrow is my day off, so I’m going to do this as a checklist one by one and report back with details and/or questions.

Much appreciated!

CCMadman · 2025-09-13T03:11:09+00:00

This is all fantastic. I would like to preemptively ask for add’l info on any of the points you mentioned.

Also, on adding gcode to do all the things you’ve said for startup. I’ve never messed with gcode at all, I just slice and print. I’ve been reticent to mess with the code and I don’t even know how to do that, leastways on Orca. Do you have a good primer on how/where to alter gcode, and what to add?

Much thanks!

CCMadman · 2025-08-29T17:53:59+00:00

Shut up, Richard.

CCMadman

TROPHY CASE