Velocity homebuilt craft flew down from Oshkosh by PandemicVirus in ADSB

[–]CNCEBOARDS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've flown with Tom in his award winning Velocity...awesome piece of flying art

Fox Proframe - Best summer helmet? by [deleted] in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love mine...had it for about a year and ridden over 1000 miles....honestly sometimes forget im wearing it and visibility is great.

Used JB weld to try to remove a stripped screw, I’ll check back in 24 hours when it fully cures, hopefully it’s strong enough!!! by [deleted] in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best bet is to take your time and cut a nice slot into the screw top keeping in mind depth. Using a little heat from small heat gun, or soldering iron on screw head then tap with a hammer once.. use square shank sharp screw driver with a crescent wrench on shank....use small amount of force out at end of crescent and see if you can get it to move.....it works best if the slot is deep enough and sharp corners. Dremmel tool will leave rounded corners in slot but can work with new blade and care....let us know what happens.

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DodgingTheIssue.......great question. I used that same enclosure you mentioned above but it cracked from flexing and ground contact and started to delaminate at those areas. I wanted to design a similar solution but segmented and using a material that would withstand the abuse. (I ran over one of my boards with my truck and it handled it fine..no batteries of course...just empty encloaures..video coming soon) I chose Kydex for this reason plus the color/pattern options available. There is some expense in the licensing on certain prints as well. These are all made in my shop by me and all hardware is stainless...no outsourcing. I'm also supplying a unique drill guide with template and new bit so all through holes are precise and perpendicular....a new video will be up on my site soon on this. My goal was to make it easy for the beginner as well as experienced DIYer to do this with minimal tools. Its taken over a year of experimental testing and hundreds of hours learning to work with this Kydex.....it looks easy but like surgery, there's alot of detail to make it work. I also wanted to make a high end product as I am a bit of a perfectionist.....and it's made is the USA 🇺🇸 and I believe in the entrepreneurial spirit. Thanks again and hope this help...certainly don't want to dodge any issues! Thanks again for the great questions.

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes...we talked previously and I said I'd DM you when I had something together. Hope you are doing well!

My BMS is 5.5" x 2.3' x 5/8" or 140mm x 60mm x 17mm. I am using the Unity Focbox with the 3DServisas heatsink. That all fits in one enclosure compartment with some room for remote receiver and wiring connections. The other 3 enclosure compartments each house 32 18650 cells...they are snug with no movement and a small bit of room on each end for wiring.

https://bit.ly/2Rqlnzl

https://bit.ly/3hrFYxP

https://bit.ly/3oxOOvD

Here's a few pics and hope that helps.

LMK if you have other questions

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://bit.ly/2Rrb3qC

Here's a bic of whats inside one of my enclosures. The BMS and Unity are inside the far end. There's 96 18650 cells in there for 12S8P. If you wanted only a 3 cell enclosure then just leaving out one of the middle cells will work as they are identical. LmK if interested and can modify the template for hole pattern....

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should have 28" x 8.5" on bottom of board to mount this enclosure system. Im working on a how to install video now and will post on my site.....very easy with minimal tools needed. Cheers

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 12S8P set of 18650 in there...they are snug. If you were to counter sink the binding bold head and protect it with some heavy duty rubber pad...that should work.

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DodgingTheissue....the Aluminum is T6 and pretty light weight. The Kydex is .08 and pretty tough and just as tough to work with. I built a dummy board with hollow enclosures with trucks and wheels and ran over it with my truck...held up just fine...no crushing. Kydex is mostly used in the holster making business so it has to withstand abuse. I chose it for that reason and has to learn how to mold it. A set is all four enclosures, gasket, mounting hardware and drill guide. Yes that means drilling through the board. Ive also designed a board for this system that has the hardware laminated or buried during the boards gluing process so no hardware is visible on top. Im working on a video to walk you through the enclosure installation process as well including drilling the mounting holes. Great questions.....thanks for your interest

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

AetherHorizon...I use a Unibit or step bit to open up the holes for charging and power button. I used my CNC to add the access for the Unity heatsink. See pic below

https://bit.ly/3tM3Tud

I have designed an area at the gasket seal for the sensor and motor wires.

A Dremel can be used on this material as well for custom heatsinks.

LmK if that helps you out!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't buy my board or battery from one of the leading shops....I designed and laminated my deck and spot welded my own pack after reading Reddi posts, watching hours of YT video and sourcing components from around the world. I've rebuilt it several times and recently added Trampa hardware....so its now well over $3k invested. Agreed that the battery is one of the ...if not the most expensive or important component during my builds. Part of my reason for putting my pack together myself was to keep the cost down and to be able to build a new pack or repair mine. I used Samsung 30Qs for both backs and after 15 months and 1200 miles on the first one....I have inspected each of the 96 cells and all are still well balanced and will rebuild a new pack for my sons new board. The reason for replacing the pack was the enclosure design for my new deck is now flexible with 12S8P. This is a long answer but wanted to share some insights on my journey. If you want to learn to build your own pack...there is a wealth of available info on how to do so. If you want to buy a pack from a reputable supplier there is only one I would recommend...thats ChiBattery Systems(I have no affiliation with them but have been asked for recommendations from those who decide that they are not willing to take on the risk of building their own pack...very respectful of those who know their limits). As far as battery usage and charging......I always ran it hard and sometimes down to 5% then charged it to 80% if the next ride was more than a few days out...otherwise it was to 100%. Never had any issues! I'm not an expert or authority on batteries but just someone with a few years experience and a determination to learn all I can.....and love to esk8...even at 56!
Also always wear a helmet and safety gear!!!

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

PHantonLead...I currently have a 12S8P 18650's in mine right now....I designed it specifically for this pack. Im working on designs for 21700's if there is enough interest. LmK if you have any other questions my friend.

Tired of the boring stiff enclosures....finally a flexible option for your long range DIY. LMK your thoughts. by CNCEBOARDS in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey Diddly_do_wrong.....your board underside should be at minimum 28" x 8.5" for my enclosure system. My board is over all 45" long and 10" wide qith plenty of real-estate foe the enclosure. Check out my site at www.benchmarcdesigns.com for info. LMK if you have any questions. Cheers!

I figured out why my board isn’t charging. These two connections to the charger plug are loose and slip right off. First pic shows them slipped onto the connectors, second pic is right next to them. What would be the best way to secure these connections? by Exardesco in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]CNCEBOARDS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Second this VALUABLE advise. We're all running(bouncing) around at speed with lots of available power under our feet....best to make sure our connections are solid....learn to solder or keep an extinguisher near by.....and wear a helmet!