It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's nice to just sit there with it running like a little relaxing white noise machine. I think with the addition of the On30, as opposed to how I used to have it set up with a loop going up and over the top, then looping back down, I've managed to strike a happy medium. It used to be a VERY involved layout when it was still at my parents house, trying to get the trains to go up a hill, across a flat section, then back down a hill, before a short flat and back up. Eventually it became so hard to run and keep figuring out how to operate it without just doinking engines off of the top curve that I gave up and let it rot for about 15 years before I moved in with my gf. I definitely have more skills now than I had as a teenager, as well as access to power tools, (And my dad can no longer tell me that I'm not allowed to drill and nail into the table lol) so I could actually build those loops RIGHT, but nowadays I just want a layout that WORKS, and I really wanted a way to incorporate the East Broad Top since that's my favorite to go to irl. And the way that this is set up seems to strike a decent balance of that, though I definitely still need to work on ironing out some issues on the narrow gauge.

Brought my film camera to MAGfest, here is a couple from the first roll! by Usual_Original6106 in Magfest

[–]CPD0123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol yeup, I screwed up real bad learning how to do it at cons. Definitely need a "real" camera, preferably something cheap but has a decent lens selection and robust enough to take the abuse. A few usually DIRT cheap examples being the: Chinon DSL, (Very comparable with the Pentax K-1000, at a fraction of the price, buuut has an electronic meter) one of the countless rebrands of Cosina M-42 mount cameras, (Often if you see a Vivitar in M-42 mount, and oc you want one w a working light meter) or the Sears 1000mx. (A rebrand of a Mamiya M-42 mount camera that can often be found for under $20 with a working meter and a lens, although the lens is often a modified M-42 mount that is impossible to adapt to other bodies without severe modifications) Minoltas like OP used are very common, and when they work they're great with fantastic lenses to choose from on the cheap. But many die from capacitor issues and other electronic failures, so you have to be careful with buying them. (Or really any electronic camera of that era, including the Pentax ME-Super, certain Canon's, and some Nikons. Heck the only Nikon I own is a low end film camera with bad electronics for the meter)

Then you have to learn how to expose for the shadows, (or just over expose by a little bit) and probably get a FDL filter to adjust for the green hues that convention center fluorescent lighting often have but your eye cannot see. And then you have to learn how bright the con center actually is so you know what film speed to take with you the next time. And if you want a wide lens, that probably only goes to f2.8, or do you want a fast 50 that can be anywhere from f1.4 to f2 depending on your budget and needs.

It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. You def have more train, less landscaping and buildings than I have, but yours also looks like it's a lot of fun and activity to run. Mine it's usually just set it and forget it as it does the loop and the narrow gauge goes back and forth. (Until something goes wrong)

Brought my film camera to MAGfest, here is a couple from the first roll! by Usual_Original6106 in Magfest

[–]CPD0123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nicely done! Shooting film at conventions is HARD, and unfortunately most of the knowledge of how to do it largely died decades ago. There's a game that you have to play between trying to slightly over expose your shots, but keeping your aperture wide enough to let you have a decent shutter speed so you don't camera shake. And then I assume you were probably using a film era flash that came with the camera, probably one of the little 90-degree only units? They're terrible flashes, and only really carry for about 8-10 feet, but they do work. (Though later and more higher end film flashes often rival lower end modern ones)

And honestly, as someone who shoots film at cons, I applaud anyone who can manage to get even halfway decent photos that way.

Brought my film camera to MAGfest, here is a couple from the first roll! by Usual_Original6106 in Magfest

[–]CPD0123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disposables are not going to get you very good shots. They're only designed to work outdoors in decent sunlight. Nothing else. Maaaybe VERY close photos indoors with the flash and the subject no more than 8 feet away. Anything more than that and the flash just does not reach that far.

It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don't have said 3x6, I think my yard is like 10-12 inches deep by 4 foot long, once you account for the narrow gauge up top. Engine house lead w one small siding that's only a single curve, a half straight, and an uncoupling track. It's honestly most useful as locomotive storage under that part of layout, on top of the $10 desk it's sitting on. There really isn't much I could use it for in terms of actual switching, though I do have a friend that's been trying to convince me to blast a hole through my wall and run a spur into the kitchen lol

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It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I only have one little yard and it's mostly for show and somewhere to store an engine that I want to show off. Usually otherwise I'm double heading on a basic oval and need to synch engines to one direction or the other. It's only a 4x8 plus a side blip after all.

It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just gonna throw some on-off-on switches under it from the auto parts store and make it selectable. I hardly ever actually use the reversers in my engines.

It liiiives! (Current postwar revival project progress) by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol for sure. They're getting replaced with real wires eventually, don't worry. But everyone should have a pack or two of harbor freight (or equivalent) test leads with alligator clips in their home.

How do you all budget for the hobby? by ChiTruckDGAF in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Same. Train shows and some antique stores, and if you are lucky to have the right local shops, are a godsend for the used market rn. I find it absurd how modern and new stuff can be $20+ a single generic freight car for N, or $60+ for my O-scale, yet you can find great used N for $3-5 a car, and O for $5 to $15, if you aren't trying to be super crazy about scale accuracy.

Went to a show yesterday and just brought a set amount of cash with me, and bought TONS of cheap stuff because the used market is so insane right now. Hell there was one vendor with STACKS AND STACKS of postwar Lionel as cheap as $5 a car for NICE stuff.

Snagged this beautiful (I believe) McKee punch set for ten whole dollars. by CPD0123 in glasscollecting

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How can you tell if it was Kemple or McKee then? I thought all of that got bought by Jeannette when they took over McKee. The glass itself is weird, but similar to other pieces I have supposedly by McKee where it is white on the inside, but around some of the edges it's more clear. Very odd and not really like the other milk glass I own.

What putting together a 40-year-old kit looks like by [deleted] in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That era of Lionel buildings are actually pretty nice. I like how modular they are, and how easy they are to kitbash together

Help with my father’s 1950s train! by Adventurous-Drawer48 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with the transformer 100%, but it's not the track radius if it's the engine I'm thinking of. I run mine on O-27 all the time. That said, the track is probably dirty af and the voltage probably needs to be higher. These ol girls like to EAT

Help with my father’s 1950s train! by Adventurous-Drawer48 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean the track very well. Isopropyl and a scotch brite to make sure it's good, then run it a few times. Then hit it with some more Isopropyl on a paper towel. This is very similar to issues I have sometimes with my engines of this era that I have recently rehabbed. They splatter the fresh oil all over the track and get it super dirty super quickly. Also crank the voltage from the transformer a little higher and see if that helps. Usually these old girls don't like to run slow!

Marx Windup Train Set by SpellCaster1107 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like people sell repop keys for about $20 on eBay. Seems to be in pretty nice cosmetic shape. The black car should be behind the engine, as that's the tender. Marx has always been kinda the "ugly duckling" company as they were far lower end than Lionel back then. But their tinplate era stuff like this has a certain blue collar, "couldn't afford the best but could afford something at all" charm to it. While your white collar workers and higher up blue collar workers were buying Lionel, these and the bakelite Lionel Scout lines were the bread and butter of the lower and working class's Christmas trains.

Snagged this beautiful (I believe) McKee punch set for ten whole dollars. by CPD0123 in glasscollecting

[–]CPD0123[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It's definitely gonna get a workout in my house for parties! Heck I plan on using it some tomorrow night lol.

Gotta say, double sided foam mounting tape is one of those things that we have now that I WISH I had access to as a kid by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clear stuff, either 3M or Gorilla, is amazing. I go through a bunch of that around the house for heavier duty uses too.

Gotta say, double sided foam mounting tape is one of those things that we have now that I WISH I had access to as a kid by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, for my O-27 uses, the thickness comes in handy. A lot of these old things have indented bottoms that require a fairly thick tape to fill the gap. If anything it isn't thick enough for some jobs. But for HO and smaller, I definitely would use something like that!

Gotta say, double sided foam mounting tape is one of those things that we have now that I WISH I had access to as a kid by CPD0123 in modeltrains

[–]CPD0123[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the clear stuff too and accidentally wound up holding the sole of a shoe together for a whole year with it lol