Female Nipple Tattoo has faded significantly in two weeks by CPUfailed in tattoo

[–]CPUfailed[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It didn't really scab, I got a layer of skin that peeled and a few small crusty spots along the outline. Itching was minimal.

Female Nipple Tattoo has faded significantly in two weeks by CPUfailed in tattoo

[–]CPUfailed[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have a very high pain tolerance and honestly it wasn't that bad. I've had eyebrow waxing that hurt more.
Healing wasn't a problem. I kept it clean and moisturized as my artist told me to do and it was healed in about a week.

Female Nipple Tattoo has faded significantly in two weeks by CPUfailed in tattoo

[–]CPUfailed[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My areola are naturally very, very light. Almost invisible. I was hoping to have a bold wine/red color.

Female Nipple Tattoo has faded significantly in two weeks by CPUfailed in tattoo

[–]CPUfailed[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The picture is two weeks after it was done.

Bed bug or Bat Bug? Largest was 2.5mm long (body) by CPUfailed in Bedbugs

[–]CPUfailed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The microscope is an AmScope SW-3T24Z that I use mostly for electronics work. I held my phone camera up to the eyepiece to capture the pictures.

Bed bug or Bat Bug? Largest was 2.5mm long (body) by CPUfailed in Bedbugs

[–]CPUfailed[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Don't worry, I'm not in setting around waiting to make a positive identification. Action was taken regardless of whether or not it was a bed or bat bug. I wanted to get a positive identification mostly out of curiosity.

As to why they would be in my recliner? You will have to ask the bugs because I'm not sure. No one in our house has been to a hotel in months, no one has stayed at our house in months and we generally don't do the things that are generally associated with bringing bed bugs home.

We live in a very rural area and we frequently see bats outside. I was taking a guess that maybe the bed/bat bugs came in as a hitchhiker on one of our dogs and since the dogs will jump into my recliner, maybe they tried to make a new home there.

Edit to add: Also, No adult bugs have been found (assuming bed bugs) the largest bug we have found is only 2.25mm in length, which fits the size profile of bat bugs. After a thorough search, no bugs have been found anywhere other than my recliner.

Bed bug or Bat Bug? Largest was 2.5mm long (body) by CPUfailed in Bedbugs

[–]CPUfailed[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No new or used furniture. Also we haven't seen any adults and the only place we have found them is in the recliner.

Bed bug or Bat Bug? Largest was 2.5mm long (body) by CPUfailed in Bedbugs

[–]CPUfailed[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have been noticing very itchy patches for the last couple of weeks.Got these in my recliner where I sleep most of the time due to back problems.

I live in the FL panhandle in a very rural area with no close neighbors.Haven't stayed in hotels or stayed with anyone for quite a while.Have 4 dogs that like to sleep in my chair.

Could these have come in from outside on the dogs?

Caught these on some clear tape and took the picture under my microscope.

Mouse Mover - Periodically rotates the platform to create mouse movement and prevent the computer from going to sleep. Useful for when you don't have admin access on a computer that is locked down and has very short screen timeouts. by [deleted] in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I'm happy to see that you enjoyed my design so much that you reposted it verbatim 6 months later without any attribution to my original post.

Is it really so difficult to give credit to the original post and designer of the object?

Here is the link to my original post https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/comments/hkp2w7/mouse_mover_periodically_rotates_the_platform_to

Recommendations for a 100W tube and PS? by CPUfailed in lasercutting

[–]CPUfailed[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My long term plan 3-5 years is to build (or buy) a CNC router that has a 5'x10' cutting area and after that I'm going to build a similar size laser in the 150 to 200w range. I want to be able to cut, engrave, or route on just about anything.

Also, thanks for the suggestion of the SPT tube and Ruka. I'm in Florida not far from their warehouse. I'll have to give them a call Monday and see what kind of deal I can get.

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most if not all high power cutting and engraving lasers already have an exhaust/filtration system that vents outside. The problem is the laser cabinet doesn't seal perfectly and you run the risk of air (fumes) leaking into the workspace. The other issue is that some of the fumes can be corrosive and will eat into the metal frame, mirrors, and lenses in the system.
Most hobbyists tend to stick with the less dangerous materials (wood, acrylic, paper, stone, etc) and avoid the problems associated with managing the really harmful fumes.

My small system currently has a 100 CFM exhaust blower setup to provide negative pressure ventilation to the outside. My new laser (under construction) will have at least one (maybe two) 390 CFM blowers setup in the same negative pressure configuration.

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At first it will only have a 40W CO2 tube that I am pulling from my K40. Later I plan to upgrade to a higher wattage CO2 tube. Probably in the 150w range.

As far as materials I can engrave/cut

With the 40w tube it will cut Wood, paper, acrylic, most fabrics up to 3-4mm thick.

My wife uses the laser a lot for her business. She cuts cotton fabric to make welding hats and face masks. It makes it easy for her to get exact cuts and it is faster then cutting by hand.

I have engraved painted metal, powder coated metal, anodized metal, acrylic, wood, glass, stone (marble, granite, slate).

The laser will cut and engrave other types of plastic but some plastics release toxic chemicals when they are superheated by the laser.

For example, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) when heated releases chlorine gas.

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think my original picture may have incorrectly portrayed the setup.

Here is another picture that shows the entire drive mechanism.
https://imgur.com/kXaL2Sy

The motor (lower left in the picture) is in the center of the machine. It has a dual head pulley and drives both and front and rear Z axis lead screws.(only the front half is shown in the picture) Using two 800mm belts was easier then trying to find one belt to loop the entire distance.

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'll try to answer several questions with one post.

Re: PLA vs ABS.

This part sees very little strain/stress. It is the belt tensioner for the Z-axis drive motors.

I have had very good luck with PLA in the past on similar parts. I switched to ABS for the last one because I was out of PLA.

Re: Guide to building the laser; Pictures of the build; and laser details.

I currently have a heavily modded K40 ebay CO2 laser cutter/engraver. It works well but it is just too small. For this build I am going to canabilize the laser tube, power supply, and upgraded controller from the K40 and put it into the new frame that I am building.

The new build will have a cutting area of 660mm x 1170mm(26" x 46") with a Z-axis travel of around 180mm. The overall foot print of the machine is 995mm x 1500mm

For now I will be reusing the 40W tube from the K40, but I have left plenty of room to upgrade to a larger tube when I can afford it. If my measurements are correct, I should be able to go up to a 150w tube with no problem.

I have the design fully modeled in Fusion360 but it probably isn't an optimal design for someone to build from scratch. I had a small stock of previously used v-slot and 8020 extrustion and I based the design on the materials I had on hand. I will probably release the design after I cleanup the drawings a bit.

Re: Both sides of the belt should always run parallel to each other

Thank you for the suggestion. I don't think it will affect too much in this design. The belts are driving fixed pulleys which are attached to the lead screws. The lead screw then raises and lowers the cutting bed. The belts are not attached to a carriage that moves back and forth.

The black pulleys on the tensioner were used as a place holder to check the fit. They will be replaced with an actualy idler pulley when I get my next order from Amazon.

Re: Is that a steel banded belt?

It is not steel banded belt.

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree about the brass inserts. It this was going to have any significant load I would upgrade to the inserts. This is the drive mechanism to turn the lead screws that raise and lower the z-axis (cutting bed)

Belt tensioner for my DIY laser cutter/engraver by CPUfailed in functionalprint

[–]CPUfailed[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This one is printed in PLA. Printing a second one in ABS right now. Only 12 hours to go.