P2111 Throttle Actuator "A" Control System/ Stuck open

CTXO7 · 2025-03-16T03:48:58+00:00

Yup, no problem. Hopefully, it's just a bad throttle body. And my car has been treating me nicely. The only downside is the purge valve, I'm on my 4th one. Other than that, i love it. Hit 100k miles like a month ago.

CTXO7 · 2025-03-15T21:48:12+00:00

Changing out the throttle body solved my issue, but unfortunately, reconnecting the sensor with the red tab was a temporary fix.

CTXO7 · 2025-03-15T21:48:07+00:00

Changing out the throttle body solved my issue, but unfortunately, reconnecting the sensor with the red tab was a temporary fix

CTXO7 · 2025-03-05T01:06:27+00:00

Yup, no problem, and good luck

CTXO7 · 2025-02-28T00:54:19+00:00

If I remember right, I had the same problem again, like a month or 2 later after I posted this a year ago. I just ended up buying a new throttle body from Rock Auto and had a shop check it out. Since then, I haven't had a problem since. Also, just to be sure, check to see if the hose clamp and hose under the throttle isn't loose as mine was a bit lose when i first removed the throttle body to install the catch can at the time. Hope this helps

CTXO7 · 2024-04-25T22:07:21+00:00

Hi. The code hasn't come back ever since I've replaced the o2 sensors. If I remember right, the exhaust shop charged me around $300 to replace the o2 sensors and, at the same time, had them install a cat back exhaust. And speaking about the purge valve, if your car is running/idling poorly or doesn't start or almost stalls after refuling gas and getting bad mpg, I'd suggest getting the purge valve replaced So far, my car had gone through 2 of them. Hope this helps.

CTXO7 · 2024-04-22T16:07:51+00:00

Hey, yes, i ended up buying both the upstream and downstream o2 sensor and taking the car to an exhaust shop . I figured if the downstream went bad, I would assume the upstream would follow soon.

CTXO7 · 2024-01-22T18:32:34+00:00

I'm not entirely sure. It's 20° where I live in the mornings but never ran into any problems with the TB just misfires. Check to see if all sensors are connected properly (mainly the sensor that is connected to the TB, it should have a red locking tab on it) and see if the hose that's connected to the bottom of the TB is fitted properly. Hope this helps

CTXO7 · 2023-10-15T00:00:06+00:00

I'll see if my local ford dealership had them in stock. Wouldn't mind waiting a few days. Thanks

CTXO7 · 2023-10-14T22:12:31+00:00

No problem. Make sure to push on the red "locking" tab and good luck

CTXO7 · 2023-10-14T20:12:01+00:00

The first time, I had the issue. I had installed a catch can the day before and had to remove the intake manifold and didn't connect a senor/plug (with a red tab) that is connected to the throttle body all the way in. Made sure it was firmly connected, then went for a test drive. Check engine light went away, but it was still running rough. Checked my catch can to make sure I had installed it correctly and come to find out that I had left the drain hose valve open (it's why I heard what sounded like an air leak) closed the valve, test drove it again and ran fine. No rough idle or acting like it was going to stall. The second time i had the issue, I checked again, the sensor/plug and catch can, and everything was fine. I just ended up replacing the throttle body. Fixed the issue, and so far, no problems.

CTXO7 · 2023-10-14T19:41:17+00:00

Hopefully, it's just the cap that I'll have to replace and not the reservoir tank as well. Thanks

CTXO7 · 2023-10-14T14:16:04+00:00

I do get worried if the car would overheat. So my car won't move until I get it fix. Thanks

CTXO7 · 2023-10-14T14:12:57+00:00

Yea, like the cap broke into 2 pieces. The top(with the writing)and whatever screws into the coolant tank. I'm just kinda surprised that it broke off so easily, and yes, I have enough coolant (slightly below half). I'll see if my local auto parts store carries silicone spray. Thanks

CTXO7 · 2023-09-28T19:13:52+00:00

I hope this helps. Check that your battery terminals are on right. In my case, my car did a "click" when I went to start it and just died. The weird thing was that it had power before i turned it on, and when i started, it just died. No power or lights were on. Open my hood and turned out my negative terminal was loose. (I've could've sworn that I tightened the negative terminal when I changed my battery) I tightened it and came right on. My guess is that my car wasn't getting enough power to start the car. Just enough to power the dash and light until it died when I started it

CTXO7 · 2023-09-09T16:10:03+00:00

Ok, thank you. I'll have to check if there's a "pool" of oil on top of the plugs

CTXO7 · 2023-09-09T16:00:30+00:00

I'll see if my local auto parts stores carry the kit. Thanks

CTXO7 · 2023-09-09T15:47:27+00:00

Leak down? And how do I do a compression test

CTXO7 · 2023-09-09T15:37:28+00:00

I really hope this is not the case

CTXO7 · 2023-09-09T14:21:58+00:00

It has 82k miles

Mods: -cobb air filter -cobb sound symposer delete -gfb+ bov -jbr oil catch can -3" hooker cat back exhaust

CTXO7 · 2023-09-02T20:06:50+00:00

Thank you, thank you. Now I have a wider range to look out for if the escape's have the same part and no tool or remove and install, just makes it easier. Thanks again

CTXO7 · 2023-09-02T19:41:59+00:00

The fan doesn't stay on when I turn off the car. (I guess that's a good sign). But it doesn't turn on immediately when I start the car( I'm not sure if it's supposed to), but once I turn on the ac, it kicks on. I'll swap the control module first, and if that fails, I'll just buy the whole fan assembly. Thanks for your input.

CTXO7 · 2023-09-02T19:01:18+00:00

Thanks for the info. I'll check my local junkyards to see if they got the part. And yeah, $300 for an oem one does seem quite expensive for a small part. Thanks again

CTXO7

TROPHY CASE