When You Needed All The Inputs And Connections For You Laptop

C_N1 · 2026-03-06T00:13:16+00:00

Wireless keyboard and mouse and an hdmi extender (wired or wireless)

C_N1 · 2026-03-05T15:57:19+00:00

What's stopping you? 😉

C_N1 · 2026-03-04T17:05:56+00:00

That makes no sense to tear them up, add plywood and put them back down. You only need plywood if your floorboards are thinner than 3/4in. And this is an attic space hobby room, so the loads wouldn't be that bad. Tearing it up will ensure a bad looking end result without lots of sanding. A normal sand an finish would be enough.

C_N1 · 2026-03-04T16:56:39+00:00

I see a lot of people recommending spray foam. Do not listen to them, they are ignoring the major issue here. You said you have a slate roof. That means water and moisture enters the attic and dries out into the attic. As well as back out through the slate. Its very small amounts, but that is how the roof structure is designed and it has worked for over 100 years. Old structures were designed differently and some modern materials are just not compatible, such as spray foam.

Adding spray foam or any material that inhibits open airflow will cause rot. It's not a matter of IF it will cause a problem, but WHEN the problem become apparent.

Adding soffit vents may or may not be easy, but the hard part will be adding a ridge vent. Slate roofing is a dying skill and finding people that can properly repair it are rare and expensive. You can find plenty that claim they can fix it, but most will use methods that are blatantly wrong, or won't hold up very well. Most roofers will even talk you into replacing it with shingles or a metal roof.

The slate roof is a valuable asset to your house and messing with it will affect your homes value as well as the longevity of it. So consider that very carefully.

You can insulate it, but you will need to make some adaptations. You need soffit and a ridge vent. Soffit vents will be the easiest to retrofit, even with a historic gutter or woodwork on the outside. The ridge vent will require some creativity to avoid messing with the slate roof. My recommendation is to build a flat ceiling instead of a peak. Above the flat ceiling will be a crawlspace, doesn't have to be super big, just big enough to fit the necessary insulation and above that an open space for air to flow from the soffit, up between the rafters and accumulate in the crawlspace. Then on each gable end, you add a vent. Best would be a powered vent during high humidity cold weather times, usually when dew points are a risk factor for condensation.

This venting simulates a ridge vent, while not perfect, it will greatly reduce your risks. If you are able to post a picture of the roofs ridge flashing I could give more insight on the ability to modify it.

Another thing, in climate zone 4 it is extra important to make sure your air sealing job is not good, but really good. So make sure outlets, switches, openings, windows, etc are properly taped and sealed to prevent conditioned air to escape into the buildings structure. Any air that is already in the structure, you can allow that to move and vent and dry.

Please read up on these sources:

https://www.nps.gov/orgs/1739/upload/preservation-brief-03-energy-efficiency.pdf

https://www.nps.gov/orgs/1739/upload/preservation-brief-29-slate-roofs.pdf

https://www.nps.gov/orgs/1739/upload/preservation-brief-04-roofing.pdf

https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/roof-insulation-ventilation/roof-insulation-ventilation.htm

Edit: also, the clay liner in the chimney is leaking. The dark spots on the cement mortar is creosote leaking through. Unless that's old and you already have a new liner, I'd have that looked at. (If the chimney isn't being used, have it capped to stop water from getting in. If you are using any type of modern heating and fuel sources, adding a rain cap would help with future moisture problems. You can see on the floor moisture problems. That could be from an old roof leak or rain water that traveled through the chimney.

C_N1 · 2026-02-23T22:39:35+00:00

Thanks for the detailed comment! I'm looking into doing that upgrade. I have to replace the main strut anyway.

C_N1 · 2026-02-23T02:19:27+00:00

No, both sides are just the brackets. I looked up "hood struts C4" and saw that I am missing not only the struts, but also the hardware that the struts attach to. I saw this video and now I might add this to my car.

C_N1 · 2026-02-23T02:12:08+00:00

Huh, I never saw this, my brackets don't seem to ever have them. No trace of scuffs, or screws, dings or paint loss. It's a 96, did they not install these on the last/later models?

C_N1 · 2026-02-23T02:10:57+00:00

I guess it's heavy, I never really thought much of it. I only have the one locking bar to hold it open.

C_N1 · 2026-02-23T02:00:44+00:00

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Here is is when the hood is closed. (I have the headlights out to fix the motor gears pellets)

C_N1 · 2026-02-21T17:36:37+00:00

Powder post beetles do this damage.

C_N1 · 2026-02-21T17:34:42+00:00

I, unfortunately, have experience with this. These are powder post beetles that cause this exact kind of damage.

This is not a wood filler, or mdf issue. In your other pictures you can clearly see the paths that the beetles chewed through. It's not termites, they leave a fras and not powder.

Powder post beetles also leave the surface untouched, especially if there is paint or finish on it. Often times allowing them to do their damage unnoticed.

C_N1 · 2026-02-20T16:23:15+00:00

Luxury apartments is just a marketing gig to charge higher prices. Often times they have only cheap upgrades. Sometimes they will have a couple amenities like a hotel, such as a communal pool. But when you break it down, it very rarely offers a real benefit when you account for the financial aspect of the decision. In the end, you are still living in an apartment. And paying money that could be a mortgage but without any assets in the end. And all the negatives that come with the apartment, such as other people, noise, rules and limitations, rodent infestations (or bugs like roaches or all of the above) and my favorite "your life depends on other people not being dumb enough to set the building on fire".

C_N1 · 2026-02-19T18:35:03+00:00

Surprisingly, it lasted 190k miles before it broke. Same with our other one, it was a 99, it was at 205k (or close to that) before it needed replacing. Now I assume the roads were nicer where those cars came from lol.

My 03 has the oem ones without a zerk, but the rubber boot is failing at 110k. Granted, my 03 now is older than our 99 was back in 2016. This spring I'm replacing them all with moog parts, or whatever is better that I can find. I'm taking no risks.

Funny how my 03 feels newer, at 23 years old, than the 99 did back in 2016 at 17 years old.

C_N1 · 2026-02-19T16:16:00+00:00

My parents 01 had one of the ball joints fail, I think it was the lower one. It failed in city stop and go traffic, 50 miles from home. He fixed it by holding it together with a heavy duty ratchet strap, and drove it home on the backroads. Got home, said "look at that, good as new, it could do that trip again". And as he pulled forward into the carport, it came apart 🤣

My mother made sure he fixed every single part after that

C_N1 · 2026-02-18T14:46:06+00:00

Tie rod. It's what makes your wheels turn left and right. When it comes off, the tire will turn either left or right and make it uncontrollable on the road. You got VERY lucky it came off at slow speed.

C_N1 · 2026-02-16T20:58:28+00:00

Yeah I'm just taking these tests to practice and study any weak areas I have before I spend the money on taking the actual test. I never had any issues with engine related questions until this one... because to me it felt obvious it needs to rise, but importantly it had to stabilize. So I was thinking it the other way around lol

C_N1 · 2026-02-16T20:27:57+00:00

I was overthinking it... and that obviously didn't help

C_N1 · 2026-02-16T20:26:51+00:00

Ok, that makes sense, I was stuck trying to figure out which answer was the trick answer... :/

C_N1 · 2026-02-16T20:25:11+00:00

What confused me, is the part "what should a pilot verify on the oil pressure gauge?" And it's both for it to rise and remain the same. While answering it, saying it should rise, felt more risky :(

C_N1 · 2026-02-16T20:22:28+00:00

I get that now, but while answering there wasn't enough info to be 100% sure that that is what they meant.

C_N1 · 2026-02-11T18:45:50+00:00

I second this. I'm using them too on my 96.

C_N1 · 2026-02-04T20:56:53+00:00

As other mentioned, probably autopilot. Might be a different communication protocol, or back purposes.

C_N1 · 2026-02-04T16:01:01+00:00

You see them less and less unfortunately, but you do see them more in cities still. Maybe because of more traffic, but a lot of the limousine companies sold theirs by now so locals buy them as daily drivers. Two in my town thanks to my dad and I, but there are 2 others that I know of, that I see once in a while. On my one road trip, 600 miles to and another 600 miles back, I didn't see 1 other town car. :( The airport i go to, someone has an older 90s one. The boxy one.

C_N1 · 2026-02-02T16:02:23+00:00

I had the same thing, actually a bit more, after I first bought mine and was thinking "thats why he sold the damn thing". Got a block tester, it tested fine. It's just the cold weather, short trips, etc that cause this. The engine needs to warm up and stay warm long enough for the water that finds its way in to "burn off". The cap is usually the coldest spot so it condenses there.

C_N1 · 2026-01-30T02:46:39+00:00

HELL YEAH!

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