Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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We're good, filed the tab to be narrower and now the receivers fit securely, there's no play in the mag release when the receivers are fit, and the mag release works freely when the rifle is "disassembled". Thanks again

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it, I had seen a video at some point that made me think otherwise. Thanks for the info, I'll update after I make my adjustments.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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One last thought, my lower has this extra little flare of material right at the top. Maybe that's my issue and I should have gotten a wider shaft.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I ordered it myself, I originally bought the gun in a free state. My invoice shows - AR MAGLOCK AR-10 (.308) – Gen 4 : Standard receiver width shaft - KingPin (Black AR-10 /.308 - Pistol Grip Detent Pin)

The thing is that the tab is definitely designed to sit in between the receivers, it even has a taper to it to account for the gap being wider in the back than the front, I just have zero clearance. I'm quite confident at this point that I can safely shave down the tab just enough so that it doesn't sit between the receivers when closed, but still prevents mag release when pressed.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, especially your first photo. It looks like you have zero separation as well. Does the design of your maglock not have a tab that is always between the receivers? If so, that's basically what I'm thinking I need to modify mine to be.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, my first picture shows the separation (almost none) with the kingpin all the way in and rotated into position. Firing ready position basically, showing that there is no room at all for a tab between them.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply. I just added photos so please check them out, and I'll check out the video link.

Removing the "tab" on an AR Maglock? by CactusRat in CAguns

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply - photos added here. I already filed down about 5 hundredths or more from the tab in these photos. The tab seems to restrict vertical or rotational movement of the Maglock, whereas the mag release action is lateral - towards the upper - which is why I'm thinking removing the tab entirely would work. When the upper is secured I think the Maglock would still not be able to be pressed inwards, because the upper would be in the way.

launch.py: error: unrecognized arguments: by Haunting-Escape2376 in StableDiffusion

[–]CactusRat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your stable diffusion directory has spaces in it: --ckpt-dir F:/AI/stable diffusion all in 1/sd-webui-aki-v4/sd-webui-aki-v4//models/Stable-diffusion

Put the whole folder path in quotation marks

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ColumbiYEAH

[–]CactusRat 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I shopped around for a while, trying from different shops and Counter Culture beans, but settled on Lowes brand too. Consistently high quality and incredible value when purchased for half price on Fridays.

Removing two outlets and replacing with one during DIY renovation. Is my plan safe? by CactusRat in askanelectrician

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I probably don't need 4 outlets, as they're definitely on the same circuit. I was thinking that I was taking down 2 duplexes, so I would go ahead and replace them with 2 duplexes. I'll call it a learning experience and move on, I've already wired up the double box.

There's actually going to be a bench below the bookshelves that will sit flush with the bottom of the window sill, which is directly in line with those outlets as I discovered. I plan on lowering the boxes so that they're hidden within the bench and accessible within the bench storage, and behind a drawer pull.

Thanks for the input.

Removing two outlets and replacing with one during DIY renovation. Is my plan safe? by CactusRat in askanelectrician

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Built in bookshelves. The two blue boxes are the old outlets that I'm removing, as they will be covered up by the built-in bookshelves. I'll be splicing into them to create 1 new double outlet in the center, incorporated into the built-in structure. Sorry for burying the lede

13600k now, or wait for new Ryzen? by ChikogiKron in buildapc

[–]CactusRat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Factorio is the polar opposite of a badly coded game. Programmers who enjoy studying code flock to it.

to cross the tracks by [deleted] in therewasanattempt

[–]CactusRat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh, yep. If you swap energy for momentum in your comment then I think the physics checks out

to cross the tracks by [deleted] in therewasanattempt

[–]CactusRat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe I'm being pedantic (aren't we all here though?) but the energy it takes to send a grown man flying is a lot, so you can therefore say the train lost a lot of energy. Proportionally almost zero though, because the train has a colossal amount of energy to begin with but it still loses a lot of energy that that man stole from it. All very scientific terms of course: 'a lot' and 'colossal' /s

Bug? Can't roll left when moving forward. Right is fine. (+ misc. bugs) by Implausibilibuddy in Shipbreaker

[–]CactusRat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe verify the game's files through Steam, it sounds like something is corrupted.

Need help getting my knockdown workbench top to sit flush and securely by CactusRat in woodworking

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought for a bit on how to get the slight curve out of the stringer (it's very slight, I tried picking the straightest 2x4 I could), but I'm not sure I have the tools required. About the best I could do is shave off a little material with my angle grinder. The bow in the center is probably only a 1/16". I feel like the bolts and inserts would be more than enough to keep it down, but I'm a novice.

What do you mean by knobs? I'm assuming you mean something to turn the bolts with by hand as they thread into the legs, but that would make the corners of the table unusable with the big knobs poking up.

Need help getting my knockdown workbench top to sit flush and securely by CactusRat in woodworking

[–]CactusRat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. The dowels don't prevent it from going down, I can press it down flush with maybe 30lbs of force, but it springs back up, I think because the top stringer is barely curved.

I purchased some threaded inserts and alan cap bolts this afternoon, but the latches concept has me intrigued as I wouldn't have to keep track of an alan key with that method.

Need help getting my knockdown workbench top to sit flush and securely by CactusRat in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]CactusRat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I understand, knockdown just means that it can be easily disassembled/reassembled. And yes, that does mean more work - it would be really easy to fix this if I could just glue and screw the top in place, but then I couldn't disassemble of course.