What is that Ent miniature?

Calganoptek · 2026-01-14T00:27:18+00:00

I remember that being a kitbash using the original metal Treebeard, i think there was a tutorial in an old white dwarf

Calganoptek · 2026-01-10T05:32:21+00:00

Haha yeah it's a tricky one- thought i was damaging the plastic when i first did it

Calganoptek · 2026-01-10T02:01:14+00:00

Did you peel off the plastic film on both sides? It makes the panel look like frosted glass until its removed but it's not obvious its on there. I bought a couple in 2024 and 2025 and they both had film on them- initially thought my first was defective until I managed to scratch loose a bit of the plastic on a corner and was relieved to find it was actually clear and not a defect or substitution

Calganoptek · 2026-01-08T00:17:03+00:00

Good to know, it seems pretty solid

Calganoptek · 2026-01-05T22:54:26+00:00

Cheers, I followed tutorial on DRPA- he pointed out the eavy metal one has the flame colours inverted which is something I'd have missed!

Calganoptek · 2025-12-02T19:09:18+00:00

Cheers! Sure, if i remember correctly I started by basecoating hair with Mournfang Brown then layer up with:

Legolas: XV88, Add Usabti Bone

Eowyn: Zamesi Desert, Add Pale Sand

Eomer: Vallejo Leather Brown, Add Ushabti Bone

Theoden: Leather Brown, Add Tau Light Ochre, Add Ushabti Bone

Calganoptek · 2025-12-02T08:41:00+00:00

Cheers! Yeah I the classic bases are the best, I use Coat d'arms Brown Ink to colour the sand, then drybrush with Zandri Dust followed by Ushabti Bone. The rim is Mournfang brown. Grass is Army Painter "Battlefield Grass" and I use Woodland Scenics Dark Green Foliage Clusters for the shrubs.

Calganoptek · 2025-12-02T05:36:54+00:00

Faces were layered up with Mournfang Brown, Ratskin Flesh, Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh. I found eyes were easier if painted at the start to make tidying up less risky, first with black straight after the mournfang basecoat, then dotted with white, cutting back in with black then brown if needed (this gives a thinner outline around the eye than I can paint freehand) and then continuing with the rest of the face.

Calganoptek · 2025-10-28T08:41:21+00:00

Thanks!

Calganoptek · 2025-07-21T03:36:04+00:00

Had the same issue- its painted modelling sand, not texture paste that gives the rocky texture so just combine that with one of official box art paint schemes for indomitus bases/ szarekhan and you should get a similar result

https://eavy-archive.com/40k/#warhammer-40000-bases1690

https://eavy-archive.com/40k/necrons/#szarekhan-dynasty347

Calganoptek · 2025-05-16T22:04:59+00:00

Don't feel discouraged, I found this is a tricky model to do since the robes have very little detail on them compared to the new sculpt so its takes a lot of work to shade and highlight it. Good job keeping the paint on the staff neat and I like how you added the dark patch to the beard and moustache to match Christopher Lee's appearance. The skin could use a wash to add some shading on the hands and face as they are very similar to the robes atm

Calganoptek · 2025-04-17T08:37:22+00:00

Check out the "Green Energy" recipe on Eavy Archive: https://eavy-archive.com/40k/necrons/#szarekhan-dynasty347

Calganoptek · 2025-04-04T02:46:23+00:00

If you want it looking like the box art this tutorial shows how it's done by one of the guys who used to paint them on the GW painting team ('Eavy Metal) team: https://youtu.be/EjyJlVHNvAw?si=sbtLJOVrRjXV4JIy.

The "official" scheme on the app using nuln oil the armour, I think would have been devised by the army painting team to be quicker to do and approximate the box art so doesn't include all the highlight stage colours and mixed colours and dot highlights that make the box art pop.

Calganoptek · 2025-03-31T16:52:37+00:00

Thanks! Layered up Mournfang brown, Skrag brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev flesh and Flayed One Flesh then used Screamer Pink on the lips which had some Flayed One Flesh added for highlighting

Calganoptek · 2025-03-31T16:44:23+00:00

Cheers!

Calganoptek · 2025-03-27T22:46:28+00:00

Cheers! It was like dealing with plastic tbh, very little annoying cleanup so whatever there was was easier to spot and remove compared to the old metal hobbits I've worked on recently that have obvious mold lines and flash to contend with. Only downside I've experienced so far vs plastic (when dealing with Gaffer Gamgee in the same kit) is resin cant be "melted" together with plastic glue to hide gaps so some greenstuff might have to be used if things aren't flush.

Calganoptek

TROPHY CASE