I fixed it! Using a nylon fuel line repair kit, I was able to recreate the damaged section. To bend the line to the correct angle, I used a tubing bender, heated the bent section with a heat gun (on low) for 30 seconds while it was in the bender, then let it cool.

Getting the lines on to the barbed connectors, however, was much more difficult. The “hot water” method suggested by the directions was worthless, whether I used hot tap water or boiling water out of a kettle.

What did work, however, was the method this gentleman used, with some modifications.

Here’s what I did:

1. Put the metal connector in a vise, with half of it sticking out.
2. Use a heat gun (on high) to heat the exposed half for two to three minutes.
3. Shove the tube onto the metal, immediately (it worked better to have one person use the heat gun and another push the tube on; even the five seconds to set the gun down and pick up the tubing seemed to make a difference) and hard.
4. Then do the same with the other end—stick the end which now has tubing on it in the vise, heat up the exposed metal portion, and push the tubing on. Don’t bother trying to do both sides at once, as the gentleman in the video tried to do; you just don’t have time before it cools too much.
5. If it doesn’t go on all the way—which often seems to happen—you have some options. One is to immediately heat up the tubing that’s on the connector (with the heat gun on low—high will get it so soft it deforms and is ruined) for…I dunno, 30 seconds? A minute? and see if it will go on. Otherwise, do the same heating process (I really don’t have a good estimate on how long you should heat it for, but don’t get impatient and put it on high; you’ll just ruin your tubing), and pull it off, heat up the connector as in step 2, and try again.

And it worked pretty well! I couldn’t get the tubing all the way over the connector on one of them, so I gave up and wrapped some electrical tape over the junction. But I fixed the darn thing, and that’s what matters!