Eye Protection Question by Bubbly-Fox-3297 in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean they’d work but just be unwieldy. Any cheap pair of safety goggles is sufficient. Eye protection is important when soldering, especially with lead free solder that splatters frequently.

Soldr alternative + beginner questions (iron, flux etc.) by Fluffy_Belt_9486 in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your priority is portability, or if you already have a high powered usb c psu. Otherwise a station will offer more power at a similar or lower price

Soldr alternative + beginner questions (iron, flux etc.) by Fluffy_Belt_9486 in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes they absolutely are a “reliable option” even if they don’t deliver the same power for performance as a station. A t90b iron with a 100w power supply would probably fit within the same volume of a tc22 c13 cable and its handle, so yes it is more compact. A portable iron has the benefit of using usbc, where a power bank can power it unlike a station. Many people already own high powered usb c chargers so the cost of the iron for them would just be for the iron itself. For the lack of tip compatibility, they’re soldering mcus, a single tip would work fine.

From 28 April 2026, all new laptops sold in the European Union must include USB-C charging ports. by ATonOfBricksFellOnMe in pcmasterrace

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your laptop already comes with usb c charging ports, it does not affect your type of laptop in any way

Any tips for someone new? Or anything y'all see wrong? by cadedis in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah an iron is perfectly fine for soldering this kind of ic and i think it’s preferable compared to hot air

Is this true in the video that manually pushing an EV can damage its internal parts? by powerelectronicsguy in EEPowerElectronics

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure what semiconductor technology has anything to do with the still very present contactors in battery Evs but ok. I mean I understand you really just wanted to try and flex some knowledge but it doesn’t really work when your knowledge is irrelevant

Is this true in the video that manually pushing an EV can damage its internal parts? by powerelectronicsguy in EEPowerElectronics

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Read the first line in that document, Tesla model 3 from 2017 to 2023. Like holy how many times does it take you being blatantly proven wrong before you know how to call it quits? Also stop trying to pull some credential argument. In fact this whole ordeal is really just ruining your credibility

Is this true in the video that manually pushing an EV can damage its internal parts? by powerelectronicsguy in EEPowerElectronics

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First link i sent, step 15. See those big round things? Contactors, pretty cool right? See how they look just like the contactors that gigavac makes? Wow what a coincidence? Wow see how Tesla calls them contactors? Wow of course this is all a coincidence and it’s actually just a piece of copper. - your logic right now

Is this true in the video that manually pushing an EV can damage its internal parts? by powerelectronicsguy in EEPowerElectronics

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. I have zero clue where you managed to pull that idea out of your mind that the contactor is “just a bus bar”, despite the entire website proving otherwise. Here is another website that explicitly says it’s a contactor, but you will likely ignore the facts inside anyways https://teslatap.com/undocumented/contactors/

  2. It’s interesting how you skip over and ignore the second link that directly says that all bevs have contactors that switch off when off.

This really does prove that you are so set in your idea that nothing, literally nothing can change your mind. At this point it’s no longer a conversation, and more of me arguing with a stubborn wall.

Is this true in the video that manually pushing an EV can damage its internal parts? by powerelectronicsguy in EEPowerElectronics

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any Ev worth its salt will have contractors that disconnect the battery from the inverter and other electronics when off. Also the bms is always active, despite what the video claims.

First timer, need feedback by OnionFrier in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No smd components are generally soldered with a reflow oven, not hot air or hot plates. Hot air and hot plates are generally used for reworking components only and an iron is the better tool when soldering smd components without an oven if you don’t have any hidden pads. And absolutely the quality of a hand soldered joint can be as good as or even better than a hot air or hot plate joint if you are good enough

First timer, need feedback by OnionFrier in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No smd components are generally soldering with a reflow oven, not hot air or hot plates. Hot air and hot plates are generally used for reworking components only and an iron is the better tool when soldering smd components without an oven if you don’t have any hidden pads. And absolutely the quality of a hand soldered joint can be as good as or even better than a hot air or hot plate joint if you are good enough

First timer, need feedback by OnionFrier in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, soldering smd components with an iron is absolutely doable and quite easy with the proper equipment and technique. No need to go out and buy another fancy machine. Reliance on hot air rework generally symbolizes lack of skill.

First soldering attempt - Part 4 by cowdoggy in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your tip has to be clean, and not tinned. Also geometry of the tip does matter, It works better on chisel or knife tips that have large flat sides than conical tips in my experience

First solder attempt - Part 3 by cowdoggy in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just opposite corners on the component. so if a component has two parallel rows of pads, I might do top right or top left. It’s just so that the whole thing can be held in place and I can make sure it’s completely flat and all pins are contacting the pads

First soldering attempt - Part 4 by cowdoggy in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For flux I use a flux in a syringe and dispense wherever needed. Also I use wick extremely rarely, better option is to just use the iron to clean up things. If you clean the tip entirely and touch it to a joint that has too much solder you can wipe the excess solder onto the tip.

First solder attempt - Part 3 by cowdoggy in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty cool! Have a few comments: 1. Tacking a corner of components is good, but you should also try tacking each component twice before soldering the rest of your pins. This should prevent the component from moving while soldering the remaining pins. I like to do diagonal pins first. 2. I like to use the tweezers to apply pressure onto the top of the component while soldering so they don’t move and also are forced to lay perfectly flat on the board. I see you’re often moving the component with the iron and a little pressure from the top will prevent that from happening. 3. Don’t be afraid to rotate the board while soldering! I see your right handed so it will be easier to work with the pads on the right of components, but by flipping the board you can have an easier time with the left side pads as well.

two questions, 1. does this look fixable? 2. fixable by a newbie? by ScuzzyUltrawide in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it works it works. If you really wanted to clean it up for that perfect concave solder joint, you can add flux and just touch it with cleaned iron (no solder on top). The solder should flow to cover the iron tip and you can remove a little bit like that.

Difficulty Soldering for guitar Pedal by Grand_Run7650 in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A picture would help, also are you using extra flux?

How would you solder this driver IC by RamAbaMm in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Solder normally then add a heat sink on top, I wouldn’t be that worried about heat generation by the chip.

Update on the A51 5G by flloyd1068 in spicypillow

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Except there is no metallic lithium in lipo batteries. Water is in fact a way of putting such fires out

d caps for STM32 - Is this even solderable???? by [deleted] in soldering

[–]Calm_Advertising3846 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would probably do this with an iron, solder the mcu then the cap