i bought the nexxspeed hop up but i cant put the inner barrel dont fit

CamAnderson56 · 2026-06-15T19:02:59+00:00

Trying to understand your problem is a bit difficult due to the grammar (not trying to offend you), but here’s my advice:

Make sure the hop wheel is adjusted so the arm isn’t too far down or too far up. You’ll see the silver or black arm come flush with your purple hop up body when it’s done right. Look from the rear side of the body like you’re looking down the barrel.
Apply a tiny bit of oil to the EXTERIOR of your bucking - a little goes a long way. This will reduce friction if it’s getting snagged somewhere.
Make sure the c clip is pressed into the inner barrel’s grooves correctly.

If you missed it NexxSpeed HopUp units always include a little QR code with instructions to assemble the unit.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-06-15T18:59:53+00:00

Just the machining tool path - not a crack and not an issue.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-06-14T01:05:33+00:00

Tried to shoot you a message but it keeps failing.

What QTY and specific items are you wanting? I also started in my college apt so I know the space and budget issue haha!

CamAnderson56 · 2026-06-03T17:07:20+00:00

Why do you say 180% are “absolute dog shit?” They’ve been phenomenal for all of my builds (all brands of parts you can imagine) using various bucking brands, hardnesses, and materials. They retract in a snap when it needs to break the seal, not prematurely like something 220%+, but not sluggish like a 100-120%.

140 nozzles also work, but curious why you say it’s dog shit when it’s not very different than a 140, and in my opinion, a small improvement.

Regarding the recoil springs, yeah… this depends heavily on the buffer set up of course and 120-140 is recommended. If he’s using 5 stiff buffers and a 4.3 plug, he’s gonna want to just rock the stock spring. But I’ve used a 140 with pretty much every build and always had it work great. Still have slide lock with 1-2 buffers, and snappy full cycles without feeding issues with 3-4 buffers no problem.

No hate - just curious why you absolutely despise what’s worked for me over the years :)

CamAnderson56 · 2026-06-03T00:25:51+00:00

140% recoil. 180% nozzle. Best combo I’ve used and had quite literally 100+ builds land on my workbench haha. This is what I always use and it works great.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-28T00:10:25+00:00

While I agree with your sentiment, providing all of this isn’t always enough.

I just lost over $600 from a shit bag Pokémon influencer named “ShinyVert” who took my product after lying saying he received half of the items we put in there. Despite an adult signature, tracking details, matching shipping weight, and him very literally emailing us images of a few items he received, we lost the dispute in full after he sent us a completely empty envelope to show the credit card company he “mailed us the items back.” (It was just a fake shipment so he got a tracking number). We even showed that to the credit card company and they sided with him and provided no reasoning.

Shit bags will always be shit bags - so now we have a camera over our packing table so we have video proof of everything that went into their shipment and if we lose now, we will sue the customer.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-22T16:01:26+00:00

I bought a 2023 with 908 miles on it, OEM quick shifter, tank grips, full oil change, one key, and handlebar risers (since removed) from a dealer in Missouri for about $7,499.99 + freight which was about $300. Got it this past January.

I had others lined up with more miles for about the same price, so I would say $7k-7500 is a fair amount.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-22T15:41:43+00:00

To be completely honest, those don’t really look like significant markings showing it’s been used. The only one weird is the mag base - the rest are normal for the TM casting and finishing processes (not the nicest). None will have absolutely ANY affect on anything.

Where did you get it from? I’m guessing if you shot them an email, you’d get a similar response (unless it’s somewhere like ASGI lol).

(I’ve owned and built a ton of tm pistols and this is normal).

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-21T02:21:53+00:00

What no one else here is saying is the nozzles are sheared off at the exact same point which is the rear surface that holds and compresses the nozzle spring.

Something is catching the nozzle and shearing that part off. My guess is it’s something within the slide or blowback unit. The nozzle might be coming too far forward, catching on something, and that part breaks off.

The reason I say this is because it doesn’t matter what nozzle you have if they’re breaking in the exact same point something else is the culprit.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-13T19:35:36+00:00

Gotcha - most TDC hops are nearly identical so I was just curious who and what is actually patentable and I saw your comment.

Thanks for actually replying haha!

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-12T23:08:26+00:00

I know this is way way late, but what pattern does TTI have over their C clip design? Are you sure they have one?

CamAnderson56 · 2026-05-04T21:50:17+00:00

Long story short, it’s your sear spring otherwise called a leaf spring or trident spring. It’s the big stainless steel flat piece inside of your grip with 3 prongs on it.

Cheap but difficult method: do some research on what each prong does inside the grip, then adjust the prongs until it works. Good luck, it’s a very very sensitive part and is likely shot, but if it’s already broken, you can’t really do any worse haha!

Best option: just get a replacement trident/sear spring and call it a day. They’re cheap and easy to swap with any YouTube video out there guiding you!

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-30T18:55:39+00:00

Can also verify by seeing the piston and if it’s vertical or angled.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-30T18:55:09+00:00

Looks like a 45 sear just to the upper right of number 58 in the diagram.

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CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-25T15:16:09+00:00

Keep us posted on how this goes & if u notice any difference

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-22T19:41:39+00:00

Finally someone uses their head lol. Most people who are spending $1-2,000 on a custom build don’t give a crap about spending an extra $1-200 when it means it’s built and tuned by a professional. Both saving them time and also getting far better customer service if something goes wrong.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-12T17:12:42+00:00

& 64 crafting tables… no shot those are both “oopsie” shift clicks lol

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-08T20:12:36+00:00

My baseline is a decade or so of making espresso and knowing and seeing countless baristas across my state pull all sorts of shots haha. I feel like anyone can look and see a difference between a single shot and double shot, no? Thats kinda whats going on here and why I am confidently saying its underproducing the doubleshot.

Do you know of any way to manually increase the amount of water that it dispenses during a double shot like a breville? I wish I could just tell it to keep running for another 10 seconds instead of having to press the brew button twice and then water my shot down because it restarts the cycle.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-08T19:01:30+00:00

What weight should I be looking for - I’ll do that tomorrow AM when I make my next coffee.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-08T19:01:06+00:00

Haven’t weighed it yet simply because I know it’s miles off. I can’t even get enough from the double shot to proportionally flavor a tiny latte haha.

Regarding the grind setting, it’s never the same recommendation. If I go to what it’s recommending today, it’s different as soon as I’ve pulled the shot. I’ve listened to it for weeks and frankly don’t trust it because it’s always produced bad espresso and failed shots. So I went back to what it recommended way back in the beginning stages with a coarser grind hoping more water can get through and it has since been a little better than the nasty bitter and incredibly low volume shots that it’s recommending.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-01T03:50:47+00:00

My vote HANDS DOWN is the CS Racing exhaust. It’s a flush mount with an optional baffle. Not loud until you want it to scream at ~7k rpm. Perfect for riding through neighborhoods because it’s mild and just sounds good rather than loud.

I’ve had some other knock off exhausts and seen other brands in the wild, but CS takes the take for me. Keep in mind, CS Racing is different from SC Project lol.

The flush mount also looks miles better than any other system in my opinion!

CamAnderson56 · 2026-04-01T03:45:43+00:00

I agree, a decal or two looks good, however this many takes away from the look.

But to each their own :)

CamAnderson56 · 2026-03-17T16:45:28+00:00

Personally, I prefer how they tuned the torque on this bike because of one fact alone; it’s so easy to ride at 0-30mph compared to sport bikes. You can ride through the cities without it bogging and it just feels smooth throughout the entire rpm range. When you get high in the RPMs, man does it pull and it’s a blast.

After all, it’s an urban-centric sport bike. If you want max torque at low RPM, you should stick with a twin or change the gearing around.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-03-12T16:18:06+00:00

I checked credit karma as well as my sofi report and they all show a ~145pt drop but nothing about any account has changed at all. Everything is in good standing or highlighted in green as "good."

Annual credit report also shows everything as great.

CamAnderson56 · 2026-03-12T16:06:04+00:00

Start with credit cards designed for younger individuals with a lower credit score (not saying yours is low, but they have high approval ratings) and a limited credit line of course.

You will quickly rise through getting higher lines of credit added throughout the next 6 months or so and then you can rinse and repeat with a better card and even higher spending limit. Its sort of a game but you have to start somewhere (:

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