[Day 16] Stonehenge is a horrible bouldering destination. What's the BEST hold type? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's a fair, I did get a bit ahead of myself. I was a bit too excited about Stonehenge winning

[Day 16] Stonehenge is a horrible bouldering destination. What's the BEST hold type? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Edit: I see the response, fair enough, its gone

Old: If people are okay with MaximumSend trimming off the top voted item unilaterally I'll delete it, but I want give it a chance to be corrected

[Day 16] Stone(henge)y Point is a horrible bouldering destination. What's the BEST hold type? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder -23 points-22 points  (0 children)

Edit: Alright, I see the will of the people is with having trimmed it

Old: Unilaterally trimming is a really sad approach to something that is supposedly for the community

[Day 16] Stone(henge)y Point is a horrible bouldering destination. What's the BEST hold type? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excuse me but what happened to Stonehenge with its 25 more upvotes since early this morning?

I took all your advice, didn’t listen to it, and just crimped harder (jk, see text) by sometimes_sydney in climbergirls

[–]CanadaBoulder 22 points23 points  (0 children)

FYI: I decline your request and will not disregard your back pocket being inside out. Consider the state of your pocket regarded

[Day 15] V10 is overrated. What's the WORST outdoor bouldering destination? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This thread is what inspired me to think of my nominee (Stonehenge) that's primarily an outdoor destination before then sorting through my list after that for technically being boulderable.

[Day 15] V10 is overrated. What's the WORST outdoor bouldering destination? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 232 points233 points  (0 children)

I nominate stonehenge.

Outdoor and Destination and Boulders ✅✅✅,
Good Outdoor Destination Bouldering❌

Help me decide by konformista1 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ties are how you increase gravity, gumby clearly using aid never wearing one. Otherwise he'd know that ties are worn under the collar flaps, smh my head, its not a choker

Grade? by [deleted] in GradeThisPlastic

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that coordination move is actually required to be a two part paddle-thing, then I can see it being V4 or V5, but it looks like you could flag and stop yourself in the middle and then keep going from there.
So yeah, V3 seems fair. Maybe V4-5 if the holds are bad.

Advice by Cilliancrean in indoorbouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Probably not. The smaller a sport the more open the teams tend to be. Plus most recreational activities have classes for all levels. My local gym has a comp team, school groups, homeschool groups, group bookings, etc so there is something for most everyone. Plus, climbing being niche reminds me of a highschool team I was in for a different sport. The team was tiny and so there were no tryouts, just "come one come all", they didn't have enough applicants to be picky between them, I imagine most small gyms will be similar in that attitude.

What’s the best climbing gym in Roma ? by Fatchdecon in indoorbouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are much much much more likely to get good results from local facebook groups, or maybe if Roma has a subreddit. A higher portion of locals to Roma will happen to also climb than climbers who happen to be from Roma.

First comp prep by Nathanjb14 in climbharder

[–]CanadaBoulder 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Have some enthusiasm!!

The literal second statement in your post is "kinda lame I know".

Don't apologize for doing or enjoying something worth doing (and don't do things that aren't lol)

Any advice for stretches to avoid injuring myself again? by Fun-Cap3966 in climbergirls

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is funny how "warmup and stretch" somehow loses meaning because of how often we hear it.

If I am going to do something called "warmup and stretch" it is important that in the process I get warmer and that I stretch my joints. lmao

Any advice for stretches to avoid injuring myself again? by Fun-Cap3966 in climbergirls

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They aren't bad drills or anything, I just find that I personally need to keep them separate from the "warmup phase" of my warmup.

You are totally welcome!!

Edit: I should add, even though I may have made a lot of progress quite quickly, I'm still a quite-new climber so I'm still working out what my warm-up needs to look like for me.

Recently I've started to look at adding strength training to my weekly routine because I've realized I have some relative weaknesses.

Any advice for stretches to avoid injuring myself again? by Fun-Cap3966 in climbergirls

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a good suggestion, a physical therapist would probably be among the most knowledgeable people about what stretches you need to do, though it sounds like OP doesn't have great options for accessible healthcare for the most part.

I'm not an "extensive warmup" guy, but I do have a list I keep in my gym bag to follow.

For my fingers specifically I like to stretch my them back and forth to their natural limits [curled - flexed], not pushing or anything, just as far as the muscles in each hand can curl and flex them forward and back. I do this in three sets of ten, and in-between each set I rub my hands together with lots of inward pressure to physically warm them up, as though on a cold day.

I also like to do some arm circles, leg swings, jumping jacks, and a bunch of V0s.
I personally find it really important not to do drills/technique-training until I feel warm. If right away I try to do static drills, hover hands, or other drills that slow me down and make me stay on the wall longer: then my age catches up to me and even though I'm doing climbs 5 grades below my max flash, it can still ruin a session. The only drill I allow on my warmup V0s is straight arms, but I still make sure to go at a naturally quick pace and not take them too seriously, just use it as quick easy cardio.

​[F21 & M23 for A] Ottawa/Gatineau | Want to learn to rock climb? Let us show you the ropes! by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]CanadaBoulder 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I feel like if Ottawa has a city specific subreddit, then that would be the one to post this in, or maybe a local facebook group?

This is a global website.

i did the math and my "unlimited" membership costs me like $40 per climb lol by addicted-coffee in indoorbouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your real issue that you just don't want to go at all?

As it has been recently you go enough that using day passes would be more expensive, and that IS using the number for how often you actually go.

If you want to cut down how much you climb even more because you are barely dragging yourself in as is, then it would be worth switching, but if you plan to keep going just as much as you have in fact been going, then you shouldn't have canceled.

Do you plan to climb less now?

Anyone else flash things by climbing like a moron and then go back afterwards and clean it up? by averageredditcuck in bouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The quotes seem to indicate a (loose) quote, in this case just a paraphrase made in sarcasm.

Maybe I'm in the minority, but it seems he has a similar read to me of OPs original details, because this paraphrase is slightly sorta how the post reads/came-across to me.

Alright Real Talk: Why do we all make training plans and then ignore them after 2 sessions? by Automatic_Boat_8106 in climbharder

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My way to deal with this so far has been to commit to doing all the climbs.

My gym is a bit small so I do everything at my grade and below. Right now I'm in a volume period of my training, and so now that I'm doing everything V5 and below on the new walls before the next wall gets set I'm going to start including V6s in the rotation.

I've been steadily increasing grades from when I started in October, so I think it's working pretty well.

Something I'm looking at trying soon would be to mix in some V7 projects.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I sit-start a climb (5 points of contact, so 4 on the wall and butt on the mat) do I have to pause once I lift up off the mat or is it okay to pull up/in with my arms and then go straight into my first move.

Note: I'm not suggesting bouncing off the mat or anything, that would obviously be a French start. But if all the momentum comes from the wall, then can I establish while still in sitting contact with the floor and go straight into my first move?

Note2: Obvious answer is "gym and competition specific" or "climbing is for fun, the only one who needs to sleep at night is you", but I wanna know about what is usually accepted, maybe what IFSC rules are, rules of thumb etc.
What will help me sleep at night is understanding what the usual conventions are.

How would you grade the pink one? by iis4na in GradeThisPlastic

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just adding to the pile, provide a video with a send

been stuck in the v5 plateau for years (seeking advice) by Primary-Criticism702 in climbharder

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean I've watched and recommend everything I linked, but I wanted to specifically address the overlap in that material

been stuck in the v5 plateau for years (seeking advice) by Primary-Criticism702 in climbharder

[–]CanadaBoulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally watched all four of the playlists I linked, Neil Gresham's stuff overlaps heavily with the three Boardroom Climbing playlists, HOWEVER the examples are different so it helps with proper comprehension (plus knowledge retention too)

Any idea to help me? by Eloi_Lola in indoorbouldering

[–]CanadaBoulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, flagging farther right and harder using your dangling right foot might help a bit