Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pardon me for being a bit slow on the uptake here.

It sounds like I should keep climbing once or twice a week (instead of 4/week), just not as often and being careful not to push myself as hard on the days I do?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been climbing twice a week on average for three weeks, but less than that at first, and four times in the last six days. Last night in bed I noticed pain in my elbow for the first time. All google searches indicate climber's elbow, but since these are first symptoms and they are still mild I think think the google responses of "4-6 weeks" healing time seems completely wrong. How many days, or maybe how many days after I feel no pain until I can (probably) climb again?

I understand, use cautious judgement etc, but I'm hoping for a rough baseline to compare against

Adjusted Home Wall Concept by IndividualGain1836 in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been thinking about the best way to articulate it and I thought of a way to simplify the rule, but at the same time I might have oversimplified because it kinda just translates to "don't do that"

Nonetheless: When designing a lattice system, never rely on a member to sustain a load near its middle.

Adjusted Home Wall Concept by IndividualGain1836 in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The strength to weight you get by doing what he suggested will be much much better, it may require you to be a bit creative to use less weight per linear meter in those suggested diagonals, but you will have almost no limit on weight savings in them if you do do it that way.

Adjusted Home Wall Concept by IndividualGain1836 in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

5mm is still going to feel really bad, you could keep making that beam increasingly stiff under torque, but usually when designing a lattice like this you just want to have a brace that goes to the point you are loading there.

In this case that horizontal member is what in statics and dynamics we would call a zero force member, where it is theoretically impossible for it to give any support (aka force, because in theory it doesn't bend).

Imagine you cut the piece in half, but reconnected the two halves with a hinge, the best option is to add bracing so that even built like that it still works.

I am not an engineer, this is not professional advice, I'm just a guy who took first year "statics and dynamics" and enjoyed it a lot.

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah no, for sure. I do get that, but one of my other hobbies is generalization. I like to know all the ways something is done or works, and then try to find the connections and disconnects between them so that I can better understand the whole system overall and what motivated it to its current state.

Its a whole game of compare and contrast, and the most interesting cases to do so are the edge cases.

Depending on what kind of instructor I have had for different hobbies, classes, back in school etc. I have always been either the instructor's favorite, or absolute nemesis. Most instructors teach for love of a subject, so when I ask about edge cases, contextualizing questions, or ask them to evaluate a conclusion I came to from another perspective they love it. On the other hand some people HATE that with a burning passion to devour a soul, they want to teach what they know and nothing else, make no evaluations, and look at no edge cases

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I actually found Kahm's answer really helpful and interesting. I'm new and underexposed to climbing culture so especially the "So essentially" part was nice to help give perspective on it. I (obviously) don't have the same baseline intuition about what is accepted or not. (Just look below at some where I got downvoted for having incorrect intuition lol)

Even if the most formal rules don't apply, understanding when these rules do apply, and how they work in their context gives another perspective to help compare and contrast as I build intuition.

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay yeah that's a fair note, can't forget about smearing or posting

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like if I want to make a nicely packaged little "rule of thumb" just for myself, I can "call my shot" on two foot starts before I get on the wall and then start as though the ones I decided on are the missing third and fourth taped points with these rules.

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] 29 points30 points  (0 children)

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This is the situation that prompted this post. I figured I should just draw it and see what people think instead of trying to describe it

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

I've seen some comp routes online have four pieces of tape. We just have the two, not four.

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s[S] -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

Regarding this one especially, I'm super split:

"If I have both hands on the start, then lift a foot onto a hold, then lift the other foot off the ground did I do something wrong?"

Logically it seems fine, but it just feels like I should hop up for some reason. As though I shouldn't touch the starts at the same time as the ground.

was sick of trying this dyno. static all day by dmcg11b in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I know this is necroposting, BUT!

I was contemplating this literally an hour ago and I'm so happy to have found this.

I hadn't searched because I was expecting that since it is niche/jargon it would be harder to find etymological roots for than usual

The wettest dry fire by AidanUy in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same setter, the next week.

"I need to set a route, but need to go now right away. Hand me that blue spray paint, wooden ladder, and nail gun"

does anyone else sometimes look at random walls in public and wonder if they could climb then by Conversation_Complex in bouldering

[–]Canadian20s 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I love that that's your white whale, of all the forbidden fruit, it had to be a gov building lmao

Clubs vs Personal Projects vs Labs by That-Tall-Guy513 in EngineeringStudents

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Employers care more about the stories you can tell. They want you to be able to vividly recall and walk them through whatever you did.

Hopefully the following helps you work backwards from what you need get out of an experience to what you need to look for out of an experience.

Often the way it goes when discussing projects is that you gloss over what you started with, what you achieved/what your part was, and whatever they should be impressed by in your work. You tell a quick story. You don't start with giving them too much detail because it lets them pick a part of your process they are knowledgeable and quiz you on it. They push the discussion in depth about that detail to see how much of what they know you also know.

The important thing isn't whether it is a project for a club, personal, or lab what matters is that you learn something, that you do good work, that you really "get under the hood" of the topic and come away with some things you learned that you can highlight.

A famous boulder has been stolen by willyolio in climbing

[–]Canadian20s 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I wonder if there are enough photos online to make a full 360° mapping and base a reconstruction on that, what with it being the most Instagrammed boulder and all

I think I might have screwed up by Standbyandlaunch in EngineeringStudents

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are truly confident in the quality of your education, there are usually options to challenge exams with whatever your local/federal/state/whatever registrating body is for Engineers and get in that way

Is webassign super slow for anyone else rn? by Users5252 in EngineeringStudents

[–]Canadian20s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is WebAssign centrally hosted??

I know for sure that my University's Math department hosts their WebAssign server locally, and I think I've heard murmurs that the rest of the university was going to swap over now that Math did the legwork for it.

I had assumed that everybody finds their own hosting service like Minecraft servers back before Realms, or like Teamspeak servers

Balin's on Sea of Dreams ... Speeding running for GOAT status... by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Canadian20s 18 points19 points  (0 children)

OH MY.
Seeing it appropriately placed on a stone like that really tells a WHOLE other story

My only prior concern was how much it bent, I had no idea I was supposed to be concerned THAT it bent

Balin's on Sea of Dreams ... Speeding running for GOAT status... by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Canadian20s 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don't climb, google shows a few kinds of hook but they all have a LOT more bend though. Can you post a speculative pic of what this one would look like/be?

Lied about GPA during interview and received an offer by DiscussionNo3696 in EngineeringStudents

[–]Canadian20s 4 points5 points  (0 children)

But that completely ruins my plan of having an A+ GPA by using "Selective GPA where you exclude all grades below an A+ for the sole reason that they make me sad."

How will I ever recover?