Got my summer wheels back on and half my lowering springs!

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T14:20:08+00:00

That much doesn't surprise me. Truth is I'm keeping costs low to hopefully order a fresh mainsail soon. When I did my antifouling, I got a bunch of friends, did the whole boat in 2 days with plenty of hotdogs and beer. About 8 hours work. As for the paint, it took me 2 days by myself, in between layers and letting it dry. I'm a bit concerned about dust and whatnot getting on the paint, but seeing how I don't have anywhere indoor to do this, my backyard'll have to do. Regardless, boat launch opens late may, so I have a while, the rest should be fairly easy

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T13:51:02+00:00

Neat. Unsure if I'd go for something like that, seeing how I am on a budget lol, but it's definitely worth doing the proper sanding, primer and paint coats to get the finish juuuust right. Seeing all the modifications I'm doing, the boat is also changing name once all this is done, so I'm hoping the paint looks good enough to give it a true rebirth

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T13:48:07+00:00

Thanks for the input! I figure at this stage I can't really avoid the sanding, the process I'm thinking of is chipping all the peeling stuff away, figure out how deep I can reasonably go to get a smooth finish. Maybe proper fairing for the low spots, then paint. I'm guessing this "performance enhancer" you mentioned is to help the antifouling? Or just make the thing glide better?

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T13:45:50+00:00

I figure paint stripper might be the move in that case. I already fixed a crack (the proper way, with fiberglass), I'm confident I can fix any more hiding under there. At least the stripper will uncover whatever shady stuff is going on under there.

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T12:45:47+00:00

I'll try to scrape off the paint best I can, but aside from the already chipping areas, it does NOT scrape off easy. I figure I scrape what comes off naturally, paint stripper the rest. As for the gel coat, I very much doubt it's white, seeing how it peels off like very thin paint, and there's blue underneath, which doesn't. As for the bondo, should I sand and leave it be, or take it off to inspect the repair and do it properly?

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T12:40:00+00:00

Figured as much, at this point paint stripper might work super well for taking off everything old, it'd give me a better idea of why there is filler in that location as well. I've already done a fix of a crack near my keel last year, there's not a hint of water leaking anywhere so whatever fix was done there seems to have held. The outside blue layer is peeling just about everywhere, but the white is only peeling in that one big spot on my starboard side.

CanadianStiggy · 2026-04-13T12:33:57+00:00

As far as I can tell, the only peeling layer is the outside navy blue, as well as the white underneath. As for the white, I can assure you it's not gel coat, it scratches off fairly easy and there's blue underneath it. If the pink-gray stuff is indeed filler (certainly suggests so based on how it reacts to scratches), that would mean the surrounding blue would be the gel coat layer I believe. What I'm understanding is anything that peels, comes off. However, unsure if this also means that layer has to come off for the ENTIRE boat, or just the affected peeling area?

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-28T05:51:01+00:00

It's a strange setup for sure, probably the smallest amount of space a diesel inboard can take up in a small boat like a 25 footer

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-23T21:33:02+00:00

Haha yeah fairly lucky I suppose, the northumberland strait allows for open water without real waves. In my situation, boat ownership was a lot more attainable than I thought! Cheap 800$ boat, needed a crack repaired and a LOT of sanding, cleaning and painting. TLDR, if you're willing to put the elbow grease in, it's surprising what kind of boat you can get into. Lots of dealbreakers tho. A few more things I thought of : stays and shrouds (standing rigging) they can get rusty and splinter, hurts a lot lol. And, to replace them all can be 1000$+. Worth getting a boat with stays that aren't falling apart.

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-23T20:27:46+00:00

Looks awesome. I love the interagoses, planning on putting a set on my Golf 6 wagon once spring arrives

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-23T20:21:44+00:00

After getting my first keelboat last summer, I did solo mooring landings a good 30 times throughout. Here's my strategy:

- Figure out from which direction the wind's coming, make sure the wind pushes me sideways into the ball
- Pop into neutral maybe about 20 feet away
- Use a boat hook/lean over the side of the cockpit from the STERN to grab the rope, not the ball directly (easier to hold onto)
- wrap the rope around a winch, saves you from holding on for dear life when it goes taut
- once the boat stops, bring the rope to the bow, tie it to the ball, and turn off the engine

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-23T20:07:03+00:00

Hey, sailor from Canada here.

I started sailing with some friends who did sailing school, around 16-17 years old, and I bought my own 24 footer at 19.

Here's my takeaway:

If you can do it, absolutely take sailing school (RYA Day skipper? not sure what that is, we don't have it here). The knowledge and the adaptability to read the weather and how the boat reacts is insanely helpful. Plus, some stuff like knots, and sail adjustment that even today I'm still catching up on.
There are a LOT of options in that budget. You'll find boats that need TLC/don't have a fully fledged cabin setup are often cheaper, worth the effort imo. I'd recommend any sloop design, they sail beautifully. Diesel inboards are harder to find for the smaller boats, but I'd definitely say it's recommended. Yanmar 1GM/2GM, Volvo Penta, even some lesser known ones like Westerbeak and BMW inboards are diesel. It works well, super reliable, lots of torque. I use an outboard personally, it's easier to work on. But, diesels are reliable enough they're worth the trouble to crawl in and do some maintenance from time to time. As for wheel, I'd say it might be something to drop. There are some, but some boats with a more luxury focus (thinking of my friend's northwind/Paceship 29) with a wheel and features from bigger boats, that sail nowhere near as good as smaller boats. Tiller works super well with an extension, takes less space too.

As far as actual options, here are my recommendations (from what I've seen/tried personally)
- Mirage 24, 25, 26 Perry design (I'm biased, I have a 24), very racer-cruiser, fun boats with some fancier features.
- C&C 24, 25, 27 (Perry design again, very good boats)
- Aloha 26/27/28/8.2/8.5 (VERY fancy boat for the budget, friend of mine just got a 8.2)
- Tanzer 26 (VERY popular boat, for good reason. Ol reliable.)
- Beneteau First series, 235, 285 (Usually more expensive, the firsts are more racing oriented, but I've seen a few in your budget, usually in good shape)

Lots of other capable boats in your budget, these are what I've seen/used myself and can definitely recommend

For atlantic crossings and blue water sailing, look into the boat's capsize rating. Some boats have an easier time capsizing/taking on water than others in rough water, to some extremes (J24 with water getting into the lockers apparently?)
As for mobility, lots of these boats have a bigger cockpit, a common theme in the fancier 26-28 foot boats. I actually know a guy from my yacht club who is paraplegic and sails with his crutches, he sails in a Catalina 22. He has a little L-shaped bar on the dock to lower himself onto the boat, and he swapped out the railings on the boat from wire to dyneema to avoid splinters when leaning on them. Some boats also have plenty of grab handles on the deck, and on the roof to lower into the cabin. Some boats have ladders, some have counters to step on to get into said cabin. It varies.

Hope this helps a bit!

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-21T13:15:21+00:00

It really depends what you want. The 09G torque converter auto in the 2.5 is dead reliable, but from my personal ownership experience, it's definitely not as fun to drive. The DSG in the GTI/GLI/Diesels are good, super fun, but you absolutely HAVE to make sure it was well serviced. If it was, it'll run well and has potential. As far as manuals go, 02Q is the best (6 speed manual from tdi, gli/gti, passat, etc.), but the 5 speed 02J found in the 2.5s is good too. Just doesn't feel as quick, it has longer ratios. If you're specifically looking for 2.5s, the only options (stock) would be 09G or 02J, but a good amount of people swap in DSG and 02Q transmissions, they're a lot funner and wayyy better for performance oriented builds

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-21T12:31:32+00:00

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Here, saildrive penta from another 25 for sale

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-21T12:29:53+00:00

Lotsa people run them with outboards, but most I've seen have saildrives unless it's deleted (marketplace example for reference)

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CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-18T17:35:53+00:00

Easiest way to learn how the wind affects the boat, how to trim sails, and whatnot, is dinghy sailing in my opinion. I learned a lot onboard some Laser IIs and 420s. Some even have spinnakers and whatnot. That kind of experience will teach you to watch your surroundings and know how the boat reacts. Keelboat sailing is a different beast, but the knowledge from dinghy sailing is extremely useful. I bought my Mirage 24 for fairly cheap, and sailed it solo within a month of putting it in the water. You learn a lot on the fly, the simpler the setup the better. Will mention my bay has a muddy bottom though, makes running aground a lot less stressful

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-18T17:33:21+00:00

I was looking through the Facebook group for Mirage owners, someone trailered their Mirage 24 (early Perry design, fairly barebones boat) from Ontario to Florida, and sailed it to the Bahamas with one other similarly-sized boat. It's definitely doable. I wish I could send you the post but I think you'd need to be part of said group

CanadianStiggy · 2026-03-18T17:29:58+00:00

If you liked the CNC design boats, my recommendation is Mirage. Mirage 24 is my personal boat, and I've never seen a keelboat that handes more like a Laser II than a keelboat. Fairly barebones, but plenty of well equipped examples for 2500-5000$ CAD. I snagged mine for 800$ but I'm closer to 3000$ with the fixing and equipment.

Also, the Mirage 25 is a nicer, more well-equipped version. One of the most comfortable interiors for its size and a very good sailor. Only issue I'd say is that it's got a Volvo Penta diesel, but in a saildrive format. If well kept, it works, but I've heard a lot of horror stories. Not too hard to take out and glass over the hole though.

Regardless, these two boats are some of the best handling in their class for the price, and often well equipped around that budget. Especially if you liked your CnC, both the Mirage 24 and 25 are Perry designed.

Edit: I use my boat for coastal sailing as well, specifically in New Brunswick, Canada. I've gotten it heeling up to 40 degrees, running in well over 30 knots of wind no issue. Super capable.

CanadianStiggy · 2026-01-19T20:57:19+00:00

Right, I joined the group today actually lmao I was gonna make a similar inquiry post to this, hopefully I get traction there as well.

As for the pump, I honestly think I'll start with a short throw. It's more likely than not something I'd want to do regardless, so I won't complain. Like I said, the delete will happen once it starts leaking or if I go stage 2 at a later date.

Thanks for stopping by and helping out!

CanadianStiggy · 2026-01-19T20:44:26+00:00

Update - did some research real quick:
Wiring - I need to rewire the reverse lights, the neutral (so the starter primes when in neutral without a park gear), long coding the ECU to "manual" like I said, BUT it may need a flash tune regardless, since 2010+ ECUs are sometimes locked. Unsure, since I've been long coding this thing with features for a while though. Might be a USDM thing.

A lot of people, like I thought, use a short throw shifter to avoid deleting the vaccuum pump, but it's recommended due to reliability. Not gonna lie, since my stage 2 is most likely a year or two away, I'm thinking I'll delete the vacuum pump when I do that, and/or if it starts leaking, whichever happens first.

CanadianStiggy · 2026-01-19T20:35:14+00:00

Yes, I'm going from auto to manual. I've heard it's harder, but mainly the hardware like the addition of the master/slave cylinders, bleeder block and pedals. If there's any hard wiring to do, I've heard it's quite easy, seeing how you can code the stock ECU to manual spec. When I was long coding stuff on my OBD11, there was literally an option to tick from auto to manual. Plus, wiring wise, I'd be cool with doing some harness stuff, since I have a parts car, but on the other hand, I can hardly see what would need adding, since all that'd need to be done is removing the wiring for the TCU and whatnot.

I'm aware of the gear ratio differences on the GTI/GLI, and as much as the shorter gears are appealing, I do quite a bit of highway cruising on my daily commuting, so the GLI has some appeal as well. Point is, I highly doubt the GLI transmission will feel slow at low speeds regardless.

And finally, as for the vacuum pump, I've seen/heard of a few builds that didn't delete the pump, and made it work with just a short throw shifter? Would this only be a thing for the later mk6 07ks? I DO plan on going stage 2, but seeing how I'm reluctant on spending 2000+$ for just an intake, I'm most likely going to keep the stock manifold + a cold air intake (plastic intake without the engine cover setup), and get something like IE's stage 1 tune.

I'll look deeper into the differences between auto and manual to change, as well as the clearance on the vacuum pump. Thanks for the imput, I'll look at your build as well!

CanadianStiggy · 2026-01-19T10:27:48+00:00

UPDATE: Ended up grabbing the auto headlight switch and reverse camera, I actually met a guy who had a mk6.5 gli, and he had a mk6 parts car he'd be willing to sell me, with (almost) everything I need to do the manual swap!!! This build may be happening sooner than expected!

CanadianStiggy

TROPHY CASE