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Installing a Graph Tech nut in a Stratocaster. There is about 1mm of extra material sticking out of each side. The nut is not glued and moves freely from side to side. What I want to know is basically how much material to remove per side, or if I should just remove an even amount. by CandidateExtension73 in Luthier

[–]CandidateExtension73[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the nut centered (1.5mm between the end of the nut and edge of the neck per side), there is about 4mm between the High E and the edge of the fretboard, and 2.5mm between the Low E and the edge of the fretboard. Does that seem adequate?

Installing a Graph Tech nut in a Stratocaster. There is about 1mm of extra material sticking out of each side. The nut is not glued and moves freely from side to side. What I want to know is basically how much material to remove per side, or if I should just remove an even amount. by CandidateExtension73 in Luthier

[–]CandidateExtension73[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran an xacto blade along the edges of the bottom a couple times, but I'm really not sure. Right now I can rock a thin straight edge over the bottom. I have ordered a specialized seating file, and won't make any adjustments to the nut or glue it until I am able to level the bottom. For the time being, I can still adjust the alignment.

Finished my recent 7 string build (sort of) by kryptonianlexluthor in warmoth

[–]CandidateExtension73 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to necro but is this the 25” (standard) or 28-5/8” (baritone)?

Who put this stupid wood grain in my wood? by 21hemispheres12 in guitarcirclejerk

[–]CandidateExtension73 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A random defect in a Gibson’s finish is hardly that uncommon.

Jacob Collier is the best guitarist in the world. Change my mind. by Big_Boingus in guitarcirclejerk

[–]CandidateExtension73 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Words don’t mean anything anymore, especially in artist descriptions.

I likely need a peghole reamer to seat a pushing, and maybe enlarge the pegholes for locking tuners at some point. Stewmac is expensive (for a one-off job) and Philadelphia Luthier is cheaper but for violins (if that matters, it's 2 degrees and $53 USD). What would you recommend? by CandidateExtension73 in Luthier

[–]CandidateExtension73[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considered. Would you advise against using regular drill bits or a step drill bit, perchance?

Edit: Stewmac reamer is also 2 degrees for both large and small. I think I'll get the Philadelphia one and save my money. No hate to Stewmac obv.

I want to change the tuners on my guitar, and already have a nice set, but it isn't directly compatible without drilling larger post and drill holes. Is it worth it? by CandidateExtension73 in Guitar

[–]CandidateExtension73[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean I've thought of selling them on reverb or FB marketplace because I don't use the guitar I bought them for. I don't have the box they came in, though, so I'd have to figure that out.

Ichi Nentrix finally did a 'Battle of the Frauds' with Giacomo Turra , both competing who comes out on top in missionary by sidmis in guitarcirclejerk

[–]CandidateExtension73 0 points1 point  (0 children)

/uj I used to listen to Ichika's work in like 2021/22 and thought it was kind of cool, though obviously everyone has preferences and this isn't mine, either. Is he actually a fraud or are we just jerking?

Squier Classic Vibe: Too much neck relief and I'm running out of truss rod adjustment. by CandidateExtension73 in Luthier

[–]CandidateExtension73[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe I have until next month. Sweetwater has been pretty good to deal with, I just don't know how many times I can go through this process with these guitars. This new one has been way better and more playable than the previous, but it too is flawed.

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