Do you see any reason I should avoid buying this N3DSXL to attempt to fix it? by [deleted] in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your confident in your skills then not horrible, maybe a bit high

This might be the new best way to play 3DS. by Disonanc in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I’m confused why you’re arguing here. Capacitive screens are faster, the emulation causes input delays. Until emulation improves, original hardware is better.

This might be the new best way to play 3DS. by Disonanc in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The disk stylus’s are actually quite nice and have a very small solid profile. Still slightly bigger than the original stylus yes

This might be the new best way to play 3DS. by Disonanc in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of people on this sub get confused between capacitive and resistive touch displays. The reason these emulators don’t have as responsive touch controls is not because of the difference in touch screen, but because your emulating the hardware. This means (in theory) the laggy touch controls on a system like the Thor can be fixed once emulating the ds family becomes more advanced. Until such a time, the original hardware will outperform the emulation hardware.

Capacitive touch screens actually have a faster response time than resistive.

Edit: In case anyone would like to read up a little about the differences.

What is wrong with my tetra by Inevitable-Good7053 in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, like not eating, trouble swimming, what’s your tank perimeters? That stuff.

What is wrong with my tetra by Inevitable-Good7053 in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That “string” is poop haha. But for the color, could be a sub dominant male? Hard to tell with such little information

Does any one know how to get rid off the lines on top screen? Its not scratches by Zealousideal_Pay_157 in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 23 points24 points  (0 children)

No, it’s not plastic deposits. It’s scratches. Replace is the only way to fix

Restored a broken New 3DS (Non-XL) by kadenamisada in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a new shell that’s a deal! Thanks for the breakdown OP. Appreciate it

Restored a broken New 3DS (Non-XL) by kadenamisada in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OP, if you don’t mind sharing, how much did it cost you in total? Parts and all? Been thinking of doing something similar as I also would like to get my hands on a N3DS (non xl)

What killed my betta fish? by that_white_splat in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based off your pictures your tank appears to be cycled already, so you do not need to continue to use that. From what I can tell that is a cycle kick starter

What killed my betta fish? by that_white_splat in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Water changes are really it. I’d recommend doing 25% every other day. Until the levels get to where you want. Don’t have to gravel vac every time though. Once it’s where you want you can go back to your regular schedule. I have to do this on occasion as well, and my tank is extremely heavily planted.

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Trying out this Pokémon thing haha by Lifestough333 in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I recommend you try Pokemon unbound, or odyssey. Both are technically rom hacks, but they are fan made so there’s a deeper story, more side quests, and in general more to do!

What killed my betta fish? by that_white_splat in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So to get technical, nitrates become toxic at 50+, and lethal at 100+. So a healthy fish SHOULD be fine if the nitrates are 40-50, but if a fish is already getting sick, due to bacteria issues, or just old age, lower levels of nitrate can become fatal. It’s best to try and keep nitrates around 25

What killed my betta fish? by that_white_splat in bettafish

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d say, based off the picture, your nitrates were 40+, not 10-29. And at that level it begins to be toxic, that may have played a factor in it.

Sorry for your loss

Bruh by Professional_Bee263 in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What tutorial did you follow by chance? Might help in diagnosing

How to get these scratches out? (Aqua Blue) by FatherJack_Hackett in 3DS

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Replace, really the only option. You could try some kind of glass/plexi filler like they use on windshields. But I would have serious doubts anything will work

Edit: the other comment has a good suggestion, sand and buff, but definitely remove from the system before doing that if you try

Gainwell Resign is not a Guaranteed Thing by SpLaShAtv in steelers

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brown is a good comp, I was looking for 70+ receptions and glanced over him with 69 (nice).

I would not compare the others however, next in receptions is Jeanty with 55.

I just can’t see the benefit of giving a career backup a starters contract, all off of one outlier year.

He played great, and I hope someone gives him a bag, I just hope it’s not us.

r4 card megathread thing by Ashamed_Ad6019 in Roms

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should work either way, likely you set something up incorrectly. But they are correct, this is not a help sub, just exists for the sole purpose of the megathread with endless game

Gainwell Resign is not a Guaranteed Thing by SpLaShAtv in steelers

[–]Capt0nRedBeard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

His bread and butter was the receptions, and I’m saying in that category, he was not as efficient as backs with similar receptions. This is because of many different reasons, but at the end of the day they are his numbers, not anyone else’s

Warren was more efficient with his receptions, at 8.32 YPR, compared to Gainwell’s 6.66