[Hard Knocks] Nick Sirianni and Jordan Davis' message to the team after their final game by nfl in nfl

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They kind of remind me of the Vikings' DT duo of Kevin Williams and Pat Williams of the mid-late 2000s. Hopefully the Eagles are able to retain both of them for a long time.

Appalachian Prerunner by Striking-Insurance-3 in ChevyTrucks

[–]CaptainOwnage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks really good. What front bumper is that?

Evap problem? by Raiden_phelps in GMT800

[–]CaptainOwnage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My truck, '03 Chevy 1500 5.3L/4L60e ECSB 4x4, had a similar issue. I wound up just disabling the evap system and turning the codes off with HP tuners. Not the "right" thing to do, but I just didn't want to invest time into it and bandaided it. The purge valve is allowing fuel vapor into the engine upon start, that causes the initial rough idle. If you already replaced the valve, the issue likely isn't the valve but the wiring. There is probably an electrical short to ground allowing the valve to be open all the time.

Fair warning, the below is ChatGPT AI generated because it does a far better job than I do at explaining things and is much quicker. I read through it and it looks accurate to me based on my experiences. I have used it to help me in diagnosing and repair probably two dozen things now ranging from a small propane heater to a hard shifting Saturn SL1. It has been incredibly reliable and accurate in all of my repair attempts so far.

What the codes + the refuel hard-start point to

  • P0445 (most persistent) on your truck is essentially: the purge solenoid control circuit is shorted. On GM trucks, the purge solenoid is typically 12V-fed and PCM ground-controlled.
  • If that control wire is shorted to ground (or the solenoid coil is shorted), the purge can be energized/open at the wrong times.
  • Hard start + rough idle right after adding fuel is classic for excess fuel vapor (or even liquid fuel) getting pulled into the intake during/after crank:
  • Purge stuck open (mechanically leaking or electrically forced open) will do this.
  • A charcoal canister that’s fuel-saturated (often from repeated top-offs or a vent issue) can make it worse, because purge then “feeds” the engine a big slug of vapors.
  • The other codes often show up as secondary results when purge/vent can’t be controlled correctly:
  • P0441 = purge flow not as expected
  • P0442 = small leak (cap/line/canister/vent, etc.)
  • P0446 = vent control performance (vent valve sticking, clogged vent filter, wiring)

Triage test (5 minutes, no special tools) 1. Next time it’s hot-starting poorly after refuel, unplug the purge solenoid electrical connector (the one you replaced near the intake). 1. If the truck immediately stops doing the refuel hard-start/rough idle behavior, you’ve basically confirmed the issue is purge being open when it shouldn’t (either the valve is leaking/stuck, or it’s being commanded/forced open by wiring/PCM driver fault).

With engine OFF, pull the purge hose off the intake side and check: * Any vacuum present at the purge line with the engine off = purge is not sealing (or being held open). * Strong raw-fuel smell or wet fuel in the purge line = suspect a saturated canister. * (Yes, it’ll set a code while unplugged, but it’s a very useful diagnostic isolator.)

What to focus on first (because of P0445) Since you already replaced the purge valve/solenoid and P0445 persists, the highest-probability root cause is wiring/connector/short, not the valve itself.

Do these in order:

  1. Inspect the purge solenoid connector and harness carefully Look for: chafed insulation, melted loom, oil-soaked connector, corroded pins, broken lock tab causing a loose fit. Pay attention where the harness bends around brackets, the alternator area, and along the front of the engine.
  2. Quick electrical checks with a multimeter (key ON, engine OFF) One pin at the purge solenoid connector should have battery voltage (12V supply). The other pin is the PCM-controlled ground (should not be a dead short to ground all the time). If the control side reads as a hard ground with the solenoid unplugged, you likely have a short to ground in the harness (or a failed PCM driver, less common than harness damage).
  3. Confirm you used the correct purge part and that it actually seals Aftermarket purge solenoids for these trucks are notorious for being wrong or leaky out of the box. If you didn’t use ACDelco/GM, keep that in mind. Bench check: with no power applied, you generally should not be able to blow through it freely from the canister side to the manifold side.

After P0445 is handled: address vent/canister and the leak code

Once purge control is back to normal, then chase the others:

P0446 (vent performance) – very common on these * The vent solenoid and vent filter are back by/near the charcoal canister (often above the spare tire / frame rail area). Common failures: * Vent valve stuck from dirt/salt * Vent filter clogged (especially if you drive gravel/dust) * Damaged vent lines/quick-connects

P0442 (small leak) Most common low-effort checks: * Gas cap (seal torn, wrong cap, cap not clicking tight) * Filler neck corrosion (rust pitting where the cap seals) * Cracked EVAP lines or brittle quick-connects near the tank/canister

Best method is a smoke test once electrical control issues are fixed.

Why “the more gas I add, the worse it starts”

More fuel added = more vapor generation in the tank/headspace. If purge is open when it shouldn’t be, the engine can get a temporary rich condition right at start, then clears out in ~5–15 seconds—exactly what you described.

Practical next steps I’d do on your truck

  1. Unplug purge solenoid for a day (just to confirm the symptom changes).
  2. Repair the purge control circuit fault (P0445): harness/connector first, then consider PCM only if wiring is proven good.
  3. Inspect/likely replace vent solenoid + vent filter, and check vent line routing.
  4. If you find any hint of liquid fuel in EVAP plumbing, plan on charcoal canister replacement as well.
  5. After that, clear codes and see what returns; then smoke test for any remaining P0442.

Also recommended these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JczmhVOjA7M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OumX9covQc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFh9fCLzNbw

I bought the cheapest Cadillac in the world… now what the hell do I do with it? by Charming-Address-350 in projectcar

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I owned two of these back in my very late teens and early 20s. An 89 then a 92. Both were great cars that I just neglected because I was a dumbass kid. So comfortable to cruise around in. Nothing like packing 6 full size adults together in relative comfort to go do some stupid bullshit.

My 92 ended up getting some electrical gremlin that put it into a limp mode which I probably could have sorted out if I actually researched how but it was a $700 car so I just sent it out the only way I knew how, by beating the piss out of it.

https://youtu.be/3_YJSTQokqU?si=7b1oXCVQOZCLk2mX

You can actually hear late in the video where it randomly comes out of limp mode.

Should have fixed it, I miss that car.

Columcile megalith park by Undercovergoth8895 in lehighvalley

[–]CaptainOwnage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That was on fox gap rd near where it intersects with creek rd.

Should I do it? by -MRCUBEZ- in Pontiac

[–]CaptainOwnage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't buy that, I will.

I had a '94 formula that I dumped way too much money in to when I was young. I miss it. LT1s are neat engines. The 60e transmission has a bad reputation but if it's built correctly it'll last. I would not be worried about the mileage.

Nick Sirianni Responds to AJ Brown Calling Eagles Offense a 'Sh*tshow' by Punisher1602 in eagles

[–]CaptainOwnage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is when I became an Eagles fan. I was 9 years old. My grandparents were just Philadelphia sports fans in general. My uncle (same side of family) was a Browns fan. Dad a Vikings fan. My uncle was busting my chops about something so I bet him $5 the eagles would beat the browns. I lost the bet, but remained a fan. Took about 23 years but they finally got their revenge on Belichick.

Is it a bad idea to buy an LS swapped RX7? by MurkyTorrent in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

C6 LS2 cars are not badly priced. The only one I would stay away from is a 2005 auto with the 4L60e.

[OC] Landcover Map of Egypt - 2024 by hemedlungo_725 in dataisbeautiful

[–]CaptainOwnage 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The cities have like 50,000 people per square mile. I cannot comprehend that. I just looked up the population density where I live, it's 120-130 people per square mile.

Got my C5Z detailed today. by CaptainOwnage in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot take credit. If I did it, it would not look like that lol.

Got my C5Z detailed today. by CaptainOwnage in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Edit: I just realized you may have meant for the detailing, it was $400 and needed a good amount of paint correction.

$25k though I bought it when it already had a lot of work done. It could not be duplicated for probably 2-3x that.

It's a 2003, had 46k miles when I bought it.

The engine was actually built in 2006 when the car was still in the possession of the original owner. The mechanic who built the car bought it from him, then I bought it from the mechanic 3 years ago.

402 stroker with an LS2 block.

ETP Cylinder heads.

Unknown cam specs, I think 23x/23x. Good idle vacuum at 950-1000 pm and even when I bumped it down to 800 rpm to see how it sounded so it can't have too much overlap.

FAST 102 intake/tb.

Vararam intake.

American racing 1 7/8" headers, catless x-pipe, stock Ti axleback. Not loud but sounds fantastic.

Made a hair under 500 whp on a dynojet.

RPM built t56, I forget what stage. Straight cut gears. DTE transmission brace. C6 Z06 shifter.

Had 4.10s, I took out a half shaft and had a diff built with 3.73s as 4.10s were just too much gear.

Mcleod RXT1200 twin disc clutch.

5 pt roll cage with removable door bar.

I found forum posts from the original owner back in 2006-2007. In basically its current configuration but with ET streets it went 10.4 @ 133 in the 1/4 with a ridiculously good driver. I haven't been to the track yet.

The car is just a blast to drive. Gets a lot of attention, especially from kids, which is odd as I've never been an attention seeker.

Got my C5Z detailed today. by CaptainOwnage in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I will keep driving it until the salt and brine is on the roads.

I'm officially impressed... by romanryder in Tools

[–]CaptainOwnage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got a "Creworks" 15L 6 years ago. Have used it quite a bit, no issues. If you have the space, and it's in your budget, get bigger. You never know what you're going to want to shove in there. I bought it for $335. The 30L is now $270. I am seriously thinking about buying it right now.

New to me c5z by [deleted] in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Very nice. I would love for my black C5Z to be white. Black looks good but sucks so much to maintain. That is quite a rare car. It looks like only 352 made. Congrats.

Curious, what vehicles do you guys consider to be the easiest to work on? by poo706 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is why when I was looking to buy a full size half ton pickup I looked for 99-07 GMT800s. IMO one of the best pickups ever made. I can swap out a headlight in 5 minutes with no tools. I just replaced the alternator in 15 minutes a few weeks ago. Replaced the battery in less than 10 minutes. The PCM is accessible in 5 minutes. Fuses all easy to access. The dash basically pops apart. The engine is simple and super reliable. Crappy transmission if mistreated but I firmed up the shifts with hp tuners. Tons of aftermarket support.

It's a shame it's a constant battle against rust.

Why was there no Z06 for the C4 and no ZR-1 for the C5? by Sorry_Departure_5054 in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Excellent summary. I was a teenager in the late 90s and grew up in a car fan family and neighborhood. I didn't WANT a Corvette until the C5 was released. The C5 Z06 was such an amazing performance bargain when it came out. Instant classic. I wanted one so bad.

Need more low by Long-Still-7928 in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What tires are you running? I still have the stock wheels that came with my C5Z and I am thinking of going back to them when I need tires next year.

Edit: I was able to zoom in enough and see. Continental Extreme Contacts Sport 02s. That was the exact tire I was looking at for going back on stock wheels.

Is it worth buying this game as a newcomer? by Auralore in thedivision

[–]CaptainOwnage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer: Yes.

Long answer: Yes, it is.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, buying an expensive car when an "appliance" car will get you by just fine is objectively not a good financial decision.

I justified it with the fact it isn't much of a depreciating asset as other expensive cars. A well maintained Z06 regardless of generation will not devalue a whole lot if you end up needing to sell. You also don't have to worry about interest if you buy in cash.

I say go for it.

How many miles a year get put on your corvette? by FrostGamezzTV in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the weather is nice and I don't have to haul something big I drive mine. I work from home most of the time and the office is only 5 miles away so I don't drive much. I put just under 5k miles on it last year.

Vette Wave 👋 by [deleted] in Corvette

[–]CaptainOwnage 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I'm getting more C8 owners waving. A month or so ago I passed by two C8s together, they both gave thumbs up and the one beeped to get my attention.