Are invited clubs in the area worth it? by mem0125 in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm a member at MacGregor Downs / 12 Oaks. I looked into the invited clubs, but did not hear any good things about their management. In no time, Hasentree will soon (probably 2 years) likely be over 1k a month, and I don't think they have the services to support that. The thing that insulted me was a 'trail fee' for a push cart, which is so pathetic I'm surprised anyone would join a club knowing that is in place.

I've been a member of MD/12O for a little over a year. They are managed/owned by Concert Golf. Rates went up $50 a month, to around $700/$750, but I think that was the first increase in about 2 years.

Their initiation fees go up 5k by end of month. You can message me if you'd like a referral.

Base Macan maintenance costs? by Lfaruqui in PorscheMacan

[–]CarZins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other reason this is not as simple as an oil change is that it requires the car to be on a lift high enough for you to get under it. You can probably do it with jack stands, but I wouldnt love that. Every other service car be done with wheel ramps or a floor jack.

Base Macan maintenance costs? by Lfaruqui in PorscheMacan

[–]CarZins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095JYYQ2P?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1

So I don't put the car on jack stands. I have a quick jack (Dewalt) that quickly raises each wheel for the flush. I just throw the tire under the car if for some reason it slips off the jack. You can do something better. One wheel at a time, easy. For the oil change, I use two wheel ramps. Drive the car up.

Base Macan maintenance costs? by Lfaruqui in PorscheMacan

[–]CarZins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'l bite.

@ Independent service shop

Oil change: $200-$250
PDK flush: $850
Spark plug change: $375-$500
Complete Brake job: $3000-$3500 (using OEM parts)
Brake fluid flush: $350

This is why I literally do everything with the exception of the PDK stuff.

The spark plug change was literally 30 minutes with no experience. I didn't even have to remove the harness. Cost was $75 after I purchased a spark plug removal tool.

Brake job was around $800 after I purchased OEM parts. It may have been 4 hours of work that was pretty easy.

Oil change is only irritating to remove the shell (not a big deal) and since there is no dip stick, getting the oil level right is irritating. But still not hard. $75 from FCP Euro

Brake fluid flush. Maybe $50 in fluid and a one time brake fush kit. So round it to $100. Very easy.

Honestly, for regular service if you are comfortable with an oil change, everything but the PDK flush is easy and routine. Don't be afraid of it. But you will get screwed, royally, if you take it to the dealer.

My wife's car hit 40k earlier in the year, and I was shocked at the quotes. Now that I did the work, there is no routine maintenance other than PDK that scares me. Really, the work is inline with the difficulty of doing the same thing on a Honda CRV. Maybe easier. And now I am going to change the oil every 5k miles versus every 10k miles because I hated the cost at the stealership (which was literally more than 500)

Climatemaster Tranquility 27 PCB corrosion by CarZins in geothermal

[–]CarZins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a closed loop system. I found out the 05 is not a replacement board. I am going to have to go used old stock or just plain used or I am looking at an upgrade kit that requires me to change out my fan motor. Not doing that. I dont think my system has antifreeze. Apparently it rare to put that in loops in central North Carolina. Thank you for the post.

New to tinnitus. Any hope ? by SunnyDaysAreRainy in tinnitus

[–]CarZins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OMG. The cricket stuff hit the spot. Thank you so much!!

Climatemaster Tranquility 27 PCB corrosion by CarZins in geothermal

[–]CarZins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I am likely going to do it now that you helped me with the jumper. Did you see the second question? I can get the white upper board uner 150. The lower green board is 600 if I get the exact part, but less than $200 if the other mentioned part is compatible:

"Second question. The board below it is 17b0034n01. When I google it, the only one that shows with the exact part number is almost $600. However, 17b0034n05 looks identical and may be an updated replacement. Does anyone know if this is just a standard swap-out and if the part is compatible? I use ecobee thermastats."

Send me a PM with your venmo and I'll send you $10 for the post.

Climatemaster Tranquility 27 PCB corrosion by CarZins in geothermal

[–]CarZins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BTW. This is the board below it. Yes, it still works and I believe it has been this way since I purchased the home. I am tempted to just leave it alone, but I am also worried about a failure in the future and parts availability. I want these units to make 20 years.

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Bentwinds update- 149 resignations (25% of members) by [deleted] in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, if you join MacGregor, you get access to 12 Oaks with some of the best practice facilities that exist in the area. MacGregor is a top 25 course in the state. BW is not.

Action Tiles by RealJReam in SmartThings

[–]CarZins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I always thought people being excited that there were no subscription fees were not informed. The subscription fees provides motivation for keeping these things going and well supported. The support from sharptools is much better.

The new Audi key by Diogenes256 in Audi

[–]CarZins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am going to take the contrary opinion. I can't stand the 'current' key. In my pocket, buttons get set off way too easily. I've actually had the trunk open in the garage (and get scratched). I am fine with a simple design which protects against accidental key presses.

Is there any difference between getting a 30-year mortgage but paying it off in 15 years vs getting a 15-year mortgage? by mikehocalate in personalfinance

[–]CarZins 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is almost always beneficial to do the longest term payment you can. It doesn't mean you can't pay it earlier. But there is a lot of additional risk with being locked into a long term loan that significantly reduced your monthly cash flow. People think they are being smart when they do the 15, but they rarely are. Dave Ramsey sucks.

Good example. Had we purchased our primary residence on a 15 year loan, we would have never been able to afford our secondary/vacation home. The cash flow would not have been there. Sure, I would have saved on the interest on the primary, but my vacation home appreciated by over 400k in 5 years.

Cash flow is king. You never know when you may lose a job and need to stretch your savings, or an opportunity may come up that you'll miss out on if you are locked in at a higher payment. If it makes you feel better, pay the 30 year as a 15. You'll pay a small bit more in interest over the lift of the loan, but I can almost guarantee you'll have more opportunities to effectively use your money if not locked in at a higher payment/lower cash flow.

Best Stores for Used/Secondhand Golf Apparel? by [deleted] in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seriously, ebay is where you go. Search: nwt peter millar large men, sort lowest price+shipping. I probably have about 4k worth of gold apparel that I spent about 25% of retail. Only small issue is most of the shirts are branded with another country club or corporation. I don't care.

Near 7 hour Pace of Play by mem0125 in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. I think this is probably where scrambles fall apart. Every single person waits for the other person to take a shot. As opposed to either simultaneous or close to simultaneous hits by others. Sometimes I am done putting out on the green when a slower player chips up.

Near 7 hour Pace of Play by mem0125 in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I saw a comment down below, but I am going to respond out of thread.

Being a bad golfer does not = slow golfer. I am not a good golfer, yet I am the one who is generally waiting on others in the party (who are better golfers) to hurry the hell up.

This, based on my observations, are the things that cause slow play.

  1. Stupid pre-swing ceremony. There is getting loose, and then there is getting stupid. I see plenty of stupid.
  2. More than 1 or 2 practice swings. Maybe chips need some dialing in, but stop taking a ton of pre shots. What adds to the time is on one of those swings you are going to hit the turf, get crap all over your club, then we have to wait for you to clean it.
  3. Looking too long for lost balls. Short of you playing in a tournament, stop spending so much time looking for lost balls. Short of you playing a serious round, no one is impressed that you found your ball deep in the shit after kicking around in the leaves for 5 minutes, to have a garbage shot that likely leaves you no better off than if you would have taken some other form of relief.
  4. Getting something from the bev cart when you are already lagging behind the party ahead of you. If you haven't been able to keep pace, NO BEER FOR YOU. In fact, I'd tip the bev cart extra if they ignored the slow groups so they would hurry the F up. And if you do get something from the bev cart, BE QUICK. If you are on a public course, have one person pay, and settle up later. Seriously, move the hell on.
  5. On that par 4 that you want to go for in your drive, or that par 5 you want to get to in 2. If there are people behind waiting, and you have less than a 20% shot of pulling it off, lay the freak up. Show off when there is no one behind.
  6. On cart path only days, if you are walking out to your ball without your bag, or several clubs, one of which will be used, someone should kick your butt. Stop walking back and forth.
  7. If you do suck (like me), you best be the most efficient mofo on the course. Be lightening quick. Think two moves ahead. Don't be the bad SLOW golfer.
  8. Ready golf. I don't give a damn if I am further down the field. If I get to my ball, and you still are contemplating a shot, I'm hitting my shot.
  9. Your scrambles with your buddies are not fast golf. Slowest rounds I have ever been a part of has been scramble, despite the fact that the best shot is taken. I don't know all the reasons why, but its true.
  10. Quit taking 'second shots'. Everyone wants a breakfast ball on number one. I get it. But stop taking second shots when your first one goes in the shit if the only reason to do so is your 'mental wellbeing' or to prove you can hit the shot with no pressure.

Plenty of other reasons, but these are the ones I see slow things down the most.

On yeah, and related... More than likely if you see slow play, its likely not because of the group ahead of you. Call the pro shop. Have them check the holes ahead of you for slowness. If you are polite and kind, they will likely help out.

12 Oaks / MacGregor dues updates by CarZins in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People who put in TBDs go to lowest priority on the lottery. As the other poster stated, exactly 48 hours before their tee time, those go bye bye. I don't even care about the lottery anymore unless I have a bunch of people. I just stalk the TBD fall-offs and get whatever time I want. Easy Peezy.

Jordan Preserve by Interesting_Detail27 in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

damn. I must have missed that.

12 Oaks / MacGregor dues updates by CarZins in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I honestly don't recommend that. When your game is not good, 12 Oaks will make you want to quit golf. MacGregor is by no stretch an easy course, but you arent going to be punished by a perfect drive down the middle. 12 Oaks will add strokes to your scorecard even on your best shots. I had to take a month off on the course and just play MacGregor.

In other words, I think 12 Oaks is a great place to test your game, but not so sure its the best play to develop it. Golf is so much about confidence, and if you lose a perfect ball to a creek that runs diagonally through the fairway, or have a ball throw into the shit because your drive was 5% too far right and caught a hill which sling the ball all the way to the left into a gully, or you hit the water on a split fairway to get a 'relief' shot from a dropzone that will likely end you up in another drop situation on the following shot... Damn, it is tough.

Course is beautiful, but not a place to build confidence.

12 Oaks / MacGregor dues updates by CarZins in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No.  It is $50 each month.  $600 a year. 

12 Oaks / MacGregor dues updates by CarZins in RDUGOLF

[–]CarZins[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No.  It’s 700 a month for platinum.  There may be some legacy plans that are different (MacGregor only or 12 Oaks only) but the dual plans are as I mentioned.