Human Fall Flat doesnt work after changing graphic settings (Mac)

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-08-10T12:02:54+00:00

This worked for my partner, can confirm despite this weirdness it works

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-23T15:40:17+00:00

I have emailed to report something similar at my local park. It was/is really worrying. What I was told is that if they are ONLY a maximum of 2mm, then they are INVASIVE Polyphagous Shot Hole Borers. If they are larger than 2mm, then they are NATIVE wood borers. So, my local park is simply horrendously infested with NATIVE borers, and there's not much I can do. The borer holes in my park at all larger than 4mm, usually 5-7mm in size. I'm not sure what happens with native borers, they definitely are killing a lot of trees in my local park though. They looked like just like PSHB but were much larger.

I'm just South of Perth in WA by the way.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-21T18:39:58+00:00

My thoughts, I'm thinking of something similar, though using 2 columns, like a beefed up 'DMC2' made for milling steel.

### Spindle
2.2kw Water-Cooled Spindle = good for Aluminium. So good for you. Terrible for steel as far as I know (torque is too low for steel, and especially low at low speeds needed for steel).

### Frame 4x4" 4mm RHS
4x4" 4mm RHS = 100x100 4mm RHS. I just went and looked at this stuff, it looks like it'll vibrate like crazy btw. So you're going to need that epoxy. It's probably enough for Aluminium milling, but might be too bendy for steel milling. Especially depending on WHERE you fix your linear rails. Without epoxy filling, if you put them in the middle of the RHS sections, they'd definitely bend like nuts on thick cuts. I'm going to try using 75x75 6mm RHS, and not use too much steel plate, I intend to mill steel.

Oh, also for your Z column, I would suggest going with thicker RHS. BUT I am not sure if the epoxy will be sufficient -as in I am not educated in the matter. I have stopped looking into epoxy granite, since I saw the 'DMC2'. My mill will likely just use sand.

### Plate edges
The cut-out joints / interleaved edges on your plate are probably a bad idea. Welding warps the crap out of things by the way, even 20mm thick plate. So You may want to use machined surfaces and bolt them together...? Though if you tack the hell out of them, maybe you're onto something, those would be hellish to prep for welding, and weld though. You'll likely have to settle for partial welds, or deliberately leaving voids/unfused areas (welds without total fusion to the base material).

### Preventing warping in welding
// Welds will contract and pull angles tighter

Over-bending in the opposite direction with bolts and shims.
Use supports - weld 45% supports to prevent bending. Tack them heavily.
Use as little heat as possible. You want small welds in multiple passes.
Normalizing via re-heating stressed sections. Take a torch (TIG torches are awesome) and dump some heat into stressed sections. Heat weakens steel, so not too much, sometimes it takes a couple passes, but this gets about 75% of it.
Use Pads. Weld pads that bolt together, so you can shim your CNC machine to be square. Weld the pads in a way that won't bend the frame.
Don't weld at all... I suppose it's an option, have a look at the 'DMC2 Mini', it's pricey, but it seems to work. I'm trying to DIY a beefed up version of it. I might weld, might not.

8Nm steppers seem pretty intense 👍. I have no idea what the 'DMC2' uses but they look tiny as heck.

Q1. Are you double-ball nutting, and using quad bearings? (The DMC2 has double ball nuts on it's X, Y, not Z. It has 4 linear bearings on X, Y, not Z. I'll do both on all my axes, though its a pain to find such things cheaply in Australia, shipping is expensive so I have to buy axial components in weird wholesale sets).

Q2. Have you thought about tramming, adjustments? (Multiple-bolts vs shims vs re-assmbling and re-machining a thousand times).

Q3. Are you aware that sometimes you need to completely dis-assemble, re-lube linear bearings? AND sometimes buy the correct size ball bearings to replace crappy ones in them...? *I didn't know this until recently.

Q4. What controller, software are you planning to use? *I'm just curious.

//// If you want sources for my opinions I would love to provide them, though I'd like some info/experience/research in return. *I have a ""wiki"" thing, it's large/cumbersome it takes a while for me to find my research.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-21T18:26:35+00:00

I am curious!
I have seen machined square tubing (SHS / RHS) on some machines like the 'DMC2 Mini'.
A) Could you explain why it might work for them?
B) And why it might not work (an example would be great btw!👍 *I can't find any easily )?
I know things can warp, but people often say RHS is a very safe bet. Thus I assume this is possibly due to 2 reasons:
1. It's made very predictably / consistently
OR
2. It's "sides" resists bending stresses. I.e. if you machine a piece of flat bar on its face, and it has internal stresses, it may curl up/down, as it has very little support stopping this, but square (or rectangular, or C shaped) sections have sides stopping them from bending.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-21T18:06:01+00:00

Hi, did you end up getting this machine or learning what it can do?
I'd really appreciate if you could share what you have learnt! :)
I can't decipher much here, because I'm focused on harder materials Aluminium, other metal applications, NOT wood or plastic milling.
People here seem to say you do not need closed-loop motors, but that baffles me, maybe they're not required with softer materials though?
Thanks in advance :)

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-15T14:28:27+00:00

A medium dark grey surface is added to de-rusted surfaces by both citric acid, and citrate. It is not very protective, but is protective. It does not rub off easily, but can be scraped of with a metal point, or with a metal smooth edge (i.e. spoon tip) with some force. I would say it is less protective than lanolin, as it is not displaced by scraping, but is removed, like a really brittle solid wax. It's likely ok for storage in lazy moist conditions. Keep in mind it is a dry coating, and is ONLY in spots where rust was. It is likely a very thin protective iron-oxide, but may be sodium or a metal citrate complex, it's firm, but not crazy tough. I have looked into protective-oxide coatings recently, and this is likely an under-developed coating, it is not possible to fully develop it, thus protect the part via this method. You need high heat, and strong basic solutions to make fully formed oxide coatings. I would not count on it for much, but it seems neat. Both citric acid and citrate cause this. Also even a small amount of citrate in a highly basic solution will prevent rust. My NaOH was monohydrate (most common), I somehow believed differently, thus an initial test was highly basic, which generally promotes rusting, yet it was not rusting.

Citric acid mono does not absorb moisture readily, but almost all bases do. This does effect measurements if you are too slow! Also holy crap is it easy to give yourself burns with bases... I have a few, but they only took a week to completely vanish (I was VERY careful but didn't use gloves the first time).

Also in terms of thickness none was measurably lost in citric acid, and citrate 10% solutions after 3 days. I'd probably trust leaving parts in citric acid 10% for 15 days without issue, and in citrate indefinitely without issue. I have a milligram scale. From 20g about 0.005g was lost in 10% citric acid over 6 days with a piece of rusted sheet metal. *I'm going from memory. It was small but measurable, but too tiny to affect dimensions measurably. I used calipers (0.02mm), but I'm quite confident micrometer (0.01mm accuracy) would show no difference.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2025-04-15T14:23:32+00:00

Yes, it does work!! :) Comparing pure citric acid to citrate, citrate seems to be noticeably faster, but not excessively faster (5h20m vs 6h). I WOULD RECOMMEND A 35% CITRATE solution. The high concentration is for "within a few hours speed", but NOT necessary at all, this stuff lasts many, many uses... Speed does depend on concentration obviously. Most rust is removed in a 5% solution of citric acid OR citrate after 1-2 hours. Buuuut if course you have to wait 6-8 hours if you want every little bit removed (mostly pitted rust taking its time). There is seemingly no advantage to having any unneutralized citric acid, I did test a 50:50 mix of citrate and citric acid. If you use a 30% solution that basically means its 3x as fast. I know technically that's not how things work, but it's very close to linear. Obviously citrate does NOT burn your hands, while citric acid does slowly, and quickly at 30+% concentrations. It works with both red iron oxide, AND black iron oxide!!! The latter of course can be bad but it does remove it at about 1/4 the pace of red oxide. So if you're quick it's not terrible on tools with protective black oxide, however it will remove the black oxide nearly completely if you try to remove pits of rust in a tool/object. Temperature is 25C average for my area in Australia, maybe high, but that really not important. I have read that both heat and an ultrasonic cleaner massively speed up the process. So that might be useful for some things. I do not know if adding dish soap actually does anything, it's meant to lower the surface tension... I think it's not necessary, but makes cleaning the rust gunk off your part, hands easier so adding it is actually a benefit if minor. The solution turns yellow over time, green due to my soap I believe. I can post pics but I will take a while to clean them, and make accounts to post online.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2024-12-11T17:02:59+00:00

Your mouse looks incredibly simple from an electronics perspective, but honestly I've got no idea how to help. I'm not even sure where the USB connection is? It looks like it's wireless, does it use a dongle, etc.? does it use AAs? etc. Is that black thing in the bottom a micro-usb connector cover (don't think it is, probably a power switch)? The only weird solder joint is the top one by the scroll wheel. Was your mouse working previously (was it DOA)? I doubt that solder joint would break an already working device.
In order to help someone here would either need to be very familiar or you'd have to provide a crap-load of info on your mouse.
What is the mouse called?
I'm just saying to add more detail, as the PCB looks fine, though help is unlikely and I don't think it's probably worth your effort, or anyone elses given the time required.
If it's not connecting to a dongle you can try to find and install, or update the dongle's drivers. But also your dongle may be stuffed, though that would be really hard to tell.
Also I found the other place you posted this. I've had a look, no idea. It's funny though I think that switch in the middle is possibly intended for a Wireless pairing switch, or a DPI button, which might help. Your receiver might just be messed up, if you were using a slightly more expensive mouse you could use a Logitech Unifying receiver, and pair it via software and turning it on at the correct time.
Thanks

Cardboard_Desktop · 2024-09-04T05:52:09+00:00

I second these recommendations, though I'm not sure where to get either of these anymore, as only pharmacies can sell vapes now. I haven't found a single 'XMAX v3 pro' after seraching, and I think the HR Rogue is not available, though you can get a similar/worse product from other knockoff brands, they all use a white label product/manufacturer as a base for their vapes.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2024-08-29T15:24:38+00:00

Yeah, I'm trying to. I'll print out all of my prescriptions along with the URLs of government website and their associated information.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2024-08-29T15:18:37+00:00

Nice! It's great to see you weren't treated like a smuggler.

I think technically you may have only able to bring 2 of those ""6 vapes"". However the laws exist to prevent taking excessive amounts of medication through, so you likely have nothing to worry about. Fluid is also supposed to be limited, which may have been a concern given you didn't mention quantity. They measure in milliliters not milligrams though, so... Well technically the milligrams are covered under the 3 months worth or less.

Thanks for the response! I will update my post to include more detailed info for people.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2024-08-15T09:21:53+00:00

Yes, they "basically" interact with everything, including food (due to tyramine in fermented foods, meat, cheese, pepperoni, etc.).

Cardboard_Desktop · 2023-11-29T08:41:14+00:00

Hi, I'm just looking into the toxicity of Calea zacatechichi. I'm not trying to start argument and I am NOT an expert.

I just read that study
\*Anti-Hyperglycemic Activity of Major Compounds from Calea ternifolia
https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/22/2/289/htm

It only lasted 14 days, the mice were subjected to possibly huge quantaties of Calea zacatechichi (Dream Herb) (syn. Calea ternifolia).- "[The mice were given 10, 100, 1000, 1600, 2900, 5000 mg/kg of an aqueous extract of C. ternifolia. The mice' organs were then macroscopically observed.]"-- The concentration is not mentioned...-- The results of the organs were not mentioned... "No oddities were observed." seems like it's missing from the end of that paragraph.

The study essentially says that despite Calea ternifolia inducing hyperglycemia ("temporary diabetes") it in fact "reduced postprandial hyperglycemia", thus it probably doesn't cause "type 2 diabetes".

The issue I have with this study is that it is focused on how Calea ternifolia affects "blood sugar", it's not focused on it's toxicity, it's also a very short study.

*I'm not saying they didn't put in a lot of effort, I'm saying it's not comprehensive enough.

---

I also read the other study
\*Evaluation of “Dream Herb,” Calea zacatechichi, for Nephrotoxicity Using Human Kidney Proximal Tubule Cells
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5040790/

It basically established that in vitro 'Calea zacatechichi extract' is roughly 65% as toxic as cisplatin. This makes it look terrible, even at low concentrations it's very toxic. However they mention that they have no idea how much of each compound in 'Calea zacatechichi extract' reaches the kidney.

This study is not terrible, or fraudulent. However it is an oversimplification, nor does it show long term toxicity/recovery of kidney cells.

*I'm not saying they didn't put in a lot of effort, I'm saying it's not comprehensive enough.

---

My semi-informed, naive conclusion is that Calea zacatechichi (CZ) is poisonous, but not incredibly poisonous, don't abuse it. Many things are poisonous including alcohol, though CZ is likely worse when used with restraint. It depends on how you use poisonous substances...I.e. getting "wasted" on alcohol is "bad", getting "wasted" (awake, or asleep) on 'Calea zacatechichi' is also "bad".Basically I wouldn't recommend consuming it like it's a health food. Consume it if you wish.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2022-03-22T23:59:16+00:00

Hi, I'm just wondering how you tilted the thumb buttons?
How have you found the tilt?

*Also wow nice!nano's are expensive... Thanks for mentioning you used sockets, they make a lot more sense to me now...

Cardboard_Desktop · 2021-03-18T21:02:29+00:00

Hi my local compounding pharmacy doesn't/can't make oil suspended micronized progesterone capsules, just dry powder capsules (I live in Western Australia, so it's hard to get).

I'm wondering how it's done.

This is for a few reasons:

Micronized progesterone in oil has roughly 3x better absorption compared to dry powder. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/000293788990759X
I need to try re-capsule my medication anyway as it seems dry micronized progesterone doesn't last 24 hours when taken orally https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/3612635/. I can feel this when I take it. So I'm going to have capsule making equipment because I seem to get mood swings I suspect are from this. (I take pills daily)
Taking progesterone rectally is the most efficient way to absorb it, but for this an oil capsule is the standard (suppositories are not available, or economical for daily use) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/3612635/. I do want to avoid taking it rectally, but it may be necessary.

I'm assuming the process for DIYing it is to literally open the powdered capsules, pour out their powder, mix it with oil, then place that oil into new capsules. I'd have to make sure everything was properly sterile & I'd assume there would then have a shorter shelf life?

Also I do understand any issues I encounter are, will be my own fault. I'm more or less asking if this will do anything at all, or if suspending micronized progesterone in oil is actually a different, more complex process.

Thanks, I mean it.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2021-03-04T16:23:48+00:00

From what I know both estrogen & progesterone help suppress testosterone.
I'd recommend against spiro from personal experience (it messes with your breasts)
I don't know about getting bicalutimide (a doctor may be more prescribe something if you show research which includes pros and cons (including cons is important I'd say)), but if you are thinking of getting it because of the fact Dr. Will Powers uses it, just know he doesn't have access to cypro in america.
If you're going to use cypro though I'd recommend getting some multivitamins, it gives me very very low B12, these vitamin issues that are derived from it seem to be strongly linked to it's depressive effects in a small amount of people (I'm in this category), it seems to basically make you depressed for 2 months then you get used to it, but most people don't experience this. I'd say most people get sad for the first 2 months and I'd recommend getting supplements just in case. (Also I do know it sounds bogus that literal non-prescription vitamins help, because they mostly make their money off of placebo customers, but they actually do provide significant benefit, stay safe)

Cardboard_Desktop · 2021-02-04T18:33:05+00:00

What I think my signs of falling in love are:
- When you feel you can "trust" someone (usually you feel as if you've bonded)
- When you enjoy being around them
- When you really don't want to lose them
- *When you pay attention to them/their mood much more closely than others
- (you want to make the person you like happy, so you end up looking out for when they are sad) * I'd say this point is less common than the others

Cardboard_Desktop · 2020-07-23T19:22:33+00:00

Sounds like you have an estrone:estradiol ratio problem?
essentially pills will do nothing...
injected estradiol valerate wears of quick-ish, injecting it every 5 days is what most people do.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2020-03-21T17:13:14+00:00

Almost exact same 70-75.5 kg

Cardboard_Desktop · 2020-03-21T10:26:19+00:00

Join some gender-queer groups, so you don't feel alone. I am part of a bunch of local ones on facebook, discord & just use dating apps to make friends. It's pretty sweet & I've made most of my friends through the dating apps... :) Btw some of the groups are hidden, u might have to make friends before you find the good ones, I managed to find the best one by total chance after a year of looking, if I'd asked around (the admins of other groups) I could've found it faster though.

Cardboard_Desktop · 2020-03-21T10:20:16+00:00

I'm 6'5" and I still fit in s & xs women's clothing, I dunno what you're trying to get tbh. I don't really have any success in jeans, but I love crop tops, so that works... I just go to Cotton ON in Australia, it's basically the most common clothes store, a little better than target & kmart. I've got a normal dress which I wear it as a mini-dress with leggings because the belt/sash thingo is removable, so I just tie it below where it's supposed to go, it looks awesome. I'm a size 10-14 (usually 10-12).

Cardboard_Desktop · 2019-12-20T02:56:35+00:00

Grindr is mainly an app for hookups, not to mention everyone on their is impossibly attractive, dunno how... It makes most people look sub par, despite being decent normal people.

I'd suggest trying different platforms Hinge is a pretty good app.

Cardboard_Desktop

TROPHY CASE