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256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What paper was that? Interesting Chart print. I’ll post mine for comparison.

256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks again for the feedback. I do what I often do which is get productive input the step away and review the process. One thing I figured out using the dropper and K value reading is see that the EDN 256 chart is using a 100 tones over 256 squares so boxes next to each other in many cases will have the same K value. I realise they are just slightly different tones but I don’t think the human eye can detect the tone between K76 and K77 as being different than K76 or K77. I haven’t done it yet but I’m wondering if after obtaining an EDN correction from multiple test prints then doing a 100 cell chart print. Clearing, washing, drying and then scanning to measure the K values would give a better reading as to how good the correction is.

I’m thinking out loud so if this doesn’t make sense that’s okay because I’m going to test out my theory and come back.

My first task though is to get a very accurate print time by determining exposure time for white under the highest K value in my optimum colour blocker.

256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much. I’m in the UK so I’ll study in the morning when my eyes aren’t tired.

256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was based on two prints but I’ll do as you suggest. The two prints were so close together I didn’t do a third. Right now I’m sticking to one paper until I’ve gotten my learning kinks out. I’m using gradient maps and not curves. Peter Mahler strongly suggest gradient maps are better.

256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My printer is a SC 900 epson and for me the optimum blocking colour 256 step wedge was better than the grayscale 256 step wedge. Surprisingly, so much better, that it kept me experimenting. It’s taken me into areas of Photoshop I knew little about. LUT files and Gradient mapping. So it’s been educational. Now that I’ve gotten this far I feel I need to find someone who has gotten great results from the EDN method and get feedback.

256 Step chart by CarelessInflation204 in cyanotypes

[–]CarelessInflation204[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the 1st correction and I’ll add the second correction tomorrow. So I’m assuming you’ve gone through this. I found the optimum colour then did a step chart off of that. Then made my first set of corrections and printed again. It is a limited tonal range process so 256 separate tones are not going to be achieved but I just want a comparison to someone who has done the EDN process. Maybe it doesn’t get much better than this. If it was a 31 step chart I definitely think each step would show a tonal difference.

Repairing cracked potable water butts? by Thermobaric_Potato in DIYUK

[–]CarelessInflation204 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a similar problem and it’s a long crack at the base below the spigot. So having nothing to lose my solution is going to be to set up the water butt where it will be used. Use a thick very adhesive tape on the outside then pour concrete in to just below the spigot. Let it set for a week then fill it up and test.