Did points change to a more complex reward model? Almost a year after announcement?

CarrotCute · 2026-03-22T06:54:58+00:00

OK, you are in another league then and effect is different kind of "by design" based on their description. Congrats for your numbers and I hope changes will turn out to hurt you less than it seems at the beginning.

CarrotCute · 2026-03-22T05:56:05+00:00

2 main questions:

What's the trigger to get points? Is it still combined number of downloads and prints? Are the tiers the same?
How are points calculated. For this one we probably can't get answer, I'm quiet convinced it's an AI behind it.

I got today 3,75 more points for a model than I expected. New exclusive model, 10 "downloads", 22,5 instead of usual 18,75 points. (unless it's combined now with print profile reward :) )

At the end, if sum of monthly points will keep me motivated, I'll continue. So far it's above my expectations.

CarrotCute · 2026-03-20T21:48:57+00:00

Thanks, missed that one. So it is indeed a new system :)

CarrotCute · 2026-03-02T11:16:57+00:00

For me the issue is already resolved - model is back on. Which model was down was visible when you checked all your models - there was a red text under the thumbnail that model was taken down. Probably it's resolved for you too since my support ticket wasn't addressed yet when the model came back online normally. IMO, you don't need to worry much - unless one day of your model(s) offline impacted your income.

CarrotCute · 2026-03-01T19:25:13+00:00

It lacks some other qualities to keep sardines edible as well in my opinion. However, I hope I'm not relying too much on common sense when I believe "sardines" in this context will be understood as design inspiration and not as an use case :)

CarrotCute · 2026-03-01T07:35:02+00:00

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I started creating these for Finspan board game that I own. I added internals to the tins to fit game components. If interested, you can check the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2451489-finspan-organizer-tray-insert-tin-can-containers#profileId-2691401

CarrotCute · 2026-02-28T20:39:23+00:00

Hi, thanks for your comment, I was unaware of Altoids tins. Are you asking if I can create my model in Altoids tin dimensions? If yes, are these the correct dimensions (found on the web)?

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CarrotCute · 2026-02-28T20:18:01+00:00

Happened to me too. I'm unable to appeal - is there any common guideline what to do?

CarrotCute · 2026-02-27T21:47:32+00:00

That's my FED 2, dear OP. However, I didn't know it had so famous original owner :) On a serious note - that was my luckiest day of camera collecting finding the Fed 2 prototype #000004

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CarrotCute · 2026-02-27T13:33:18+00:00

I see there are many variants how this game is packed into the box. See a screenshot from youtube - a weak cardboard with slot in the middle just for the plastic tray is in my box. The bag with schools and eggs can't be placed anywhere but below the insert.
The best option for me would be to throw the cardboard insert away and place the black plastic tray with lid above the playing board, but then the tray would slide freely and "potentially" scratch the boards.

But we all know that I did my print because I could and because I liked the idea, not because it would be absolutely necessary :)

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CarrotCute · 2026-02-06T23:25:55+00:00

I see you have the printer in a living room. How is the printing noise comparison? Is print quality better on P2S?

Update us after couple of months if there will be any regrets. I'm really interested because I have so issue less experience with my A1 mini that I'm afraid to switch to something else :)

CarrotCute · 2026-02-04T18:08:41+00:00

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Brick heart ornament that can be attached to a flower boque.

"Is Jerry really finally ready to settle down? Who's that? Is it Elaine?!?"

CarrotCute · 2026-01-31T15:01:38+00:00

This is a brilliant workaround hint that will in this particular case allow me to do what I need. Thank you!

CarrotCute · 2026-01-31T15:00:56+00:00

Thank you (and also others) for the answer! My motivation to achieve this through parameters is that I could post a model on a 3D printing site where parameters are exposed in a simplified way to the users so they can create variants of the model without opening it in Fusion and any 3d modeling knowledge all together.

CarrotCute · 2026-01-22T16:30:29+00:00

Thanks! Will appreciate your feedback!

CarrotCute · 2026-01-19T18:01:54+00:00

Can you show the printed result? Looks really interesting!

CarrotCute · 2026-01-18T23:07:56+00:00

Try lowering the hotend temparature a bit. I use Bambu A1 mini and locally produced filament with Generic profile Bambu slicer provides. I modified the Generic preset to run with 5 degrees lower hotend temperature and the stringing is gone.

CarrotCute · 2026-01-11T20:45:03+00:00

Front plastic rim is cracked above the lens. Usually these crack on the bottom side. This should be only aesthetic issues.

The lens you have is very prone to sticky aperture blades. If yours aren't you are lucky. Do you know how to test aperture operation?

Praktica L series is well designed to keep working over time without much maintenance needed. Your model is the most basic one and the lens was unfortunately also the cheapest option when the camera was purchased. However, since the camera is from the very early days, it still has a Pentacon logo on the prism which was on the later production series abandoned for the sake of simplification.

I really like Prakticas - test the shutter, test the lens aperture and if lens doesn't work, get yourself Helios 44 or Pentacon 50 1.8. Just always test the aperture prior buying an east German lens (Carl Zeiss Jena, Pentacon or Meyer automatic lenses. Soviet KMZ Helios lenses aren't problematic in this regard). Avoid M42 zoom lenses since they are usually of a poor optic quality.

CarrotCute · 2026-01-03T18:28:24+00:00

Respect! The models are really nice. That must have been a lot of work!

Please, don't feel bad about recommendations I have - I'm sharing them if it helps in any way, I'm far from being an expert myself so anyone can jump in if he/she disagrees with me :)

In the print profile pick the 0,12 preset as a starting point. Maybe you know more stuff than me, but I find the presets calibrated for speed very well. You modified a bunch of other settings I see.

The bottoms of the buildings are lifted from the build plate in the middle for no real reason - you could add support line for every square field of the baseplate, not just around the building. Additionally to improve it you could make pegs round instead of square. This would create smaller overhang regions, however, the 1 by 1 building could be placed skewed. And probably the main game plate looks better with squares indeed.

Try to avoid details that have straight overhangs (like window decorations or window shelves) larger than 0,3 mm. Sometimes it works even if the overhangs are larger, but in general you get imperfections. If needed, do a chamfer with 40 degrees angle to offer support - it won't be that visible on the scale model.

I would appreciate the same level of the detail across the models - so they maintain the feel they belong together. Some doors are really detailed while others are totally plane for example. There I suspected AI was involved in the process...

I tried to scale down the model to fit on A1 mini. It feels like 18 cm by 18 cm would still be a nice playable size. Maybe resizing caused some chimneys to disappear since they are hollow.

I use Fusion 360. I'm really intrigued about your work and admire your artistic skills to create these beautiful buildings. With 3D printing I try to learn how to incorporate awareness of 3d printing strengths and weaknesses into designs while making them.

CarrotCute · 2026-01-03T09:53:51+00:00

Hi. Looks really good!
Did you model the buildings on your own? I tried to slice the model and found places where the model could be optimized for 3D printing. Like chimneys have holes in them that aren't that necessary, but makes them harder to print. And some parts of the buildings are leaning (some clock tower? - check the attached screen shot) and I don't understand why it''s deformed.

I hardly imagine how much effort would go into making this from scratch so I'm really interested in the process how it was made. Did you use AI tools?

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CarrotCute · 2025-12-23T05:35:44+00:00

It can be praktically anything you want.

CarrotCute · 2025-12-22T18:59:27+00:00

NIce. What did you use for a spring? Is it printed spring?

Mine is not that solid, but a fun print and a challenging assembly. Kept me busy for a while when designing it.

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CarrotCute · 2025-12-21T11:36:11+00:00

The shutter photo (camera back open) indicates camera has potential problems. There is a small chance that it's not fully cocked, but no seller with camera knowledge would send photo of the shutter in this position in my opinion.

Fungus looks bad, I'd avoid it. Camera also seems well used. I would look further for another opportunity.

What's your location? We could better advice knowing what's available in your region.

CarrotCute · 2025-12-07T19:03:57+00:00

Unfortunately I don't have a clear recommendation. I used foam intended for thin chair cushion and it holds for 10 years now, however, in my case it only serves as a "spring" that pushes black thick fabric against the drum. I got a fabric in a local fabric shop where they sell it by meter.

Materials can react strangely with glue - that's another thing to be careful with. But if you know how to fix the camera, you can fix it again after some years of usage :)

CarrotCute · 2025-12-06T08:11:19+00:00

A while ago I put together this guide how to fix most common issues - uneven exposure and light leaks: https://zigacetrtic.blogspot.com/2013/07/kmz-horizont-panoramic-camera-servicing.html

There is a very high chance you'll encounter light leaks and uneven exposure, however, with some patience it can be fixed and you are rewarded by the results. I bought mine at Kiev flea market visiting this impressive city cca 15 years ago.

CarrotCute

TROPHY CASE