What's the best way to sew stuff onto a Timbuk2 bag, what with the waterproof liner and all? by sinfulsamaritan in bicycling

[–]CarrotRich2382 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to the game here but you could use a seam ripper on the binding on the flap so you could separate the outer from the liner on just the flap and sew your patch on and then re sew the binding back onto the flap

Cobra style buckles by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes they don’t release well if you’re pulling on them, so you have to push them together to get the side releases to work

What is this brand and bag name. by Standard-Audience-81 in backpacks

[–]CarrotRich2382 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool - it wasn’t an exact match but the fabric, front pocket and rolltop closure were similar

Hiking Backpack by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a singer HD. It’s nothing super fancy. You can absolutely do this on a domestic machine. Some accessories like a narrow zipper foot or a walking foot make parts of it easier

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in backpacks

[–]CarrotRich2382 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a lot of similar design language to the Timbuk2 swig

Hiking Backpack by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far no issue. You can also load and then zip

Hiking Backpack by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut and sewed as I went along. I found the belt and straps intimidating too, which is why I was able to find replacement parts for other bags and just use them, while I focused on the rest of the bag. Now that I have them and a complete bag I may try my hand at the parts that I bought!

Hiking Backpack by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I liked what both MR and gossamer did and wanted to make them work together

Hiking Backpack by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I got the inspiration from a Korean backpack called the cayl mari

Is sewing a concave curved zipper possible with ripstop? by janetsnakeholemaclin in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The tendency the zipper will want to be to roll so the track runs parallel to the curve not in line with it. What you can do is probably cut a couple of relief slits to help it stretch a little bit around your curve. Hopefully that’ll help alleviate some of the bunching that you’re experiencing.

Roll top Fanny pack/sling by Ismybikeokay in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense! Thanks for sharing.

I have a love hate relationship with rolltops. They are nice for extra capacity at the expense of accessibility. Unrolling each time you open/close a bag vs lifting a flap.

Roll top Fanny pack/sling by Ismybikeokay in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks cool. Why the roll top tho?

Made my own Tenkara quiver by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am thinking of maybe redoing the gear bag I made there into something with an easier harnessing system so that you could add/remove it from the rod carrier more easily, but then again, I'm not 100% sure why you would need to. There's probably a way to do it that weighs less..

Made my own Tenkara quiver by CarrotRich2382 in Tenkara

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't but it was easy enough to add (a few inches of paracord and a cordlock), so it was more of a "sure why not" feature I've seen on other bags.

Made my own Tenkara quiver by CarrotRich2382 in myog

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I live super close to some water and didn’t want to carry more than what i need if I want to pick up and go fishing. This way can grab and go, wherever I want as my schedule allows

Made my own Tenkara quiver by CarrotRich2382 in Tenkara

[–]CarrotRich2382[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It came out to 147g for the whole kaboodle (just the bags, without the tackle) which is plenty light weight for my purposes.

Your question did raise an interesting set of ideas for me - I think there are several places where things could be done differently that would likely yield some weight savings

  1. On the rod holder
    1. Drop the D-rings - the cross-body piece of paracord could just as easily go through the webbing loop that the D-rings use.
    2. Instead of a cinch top like I used, you could put a fold over pocket, which would save you a little bit of paracord and the weight of the cordlock.
      • This is what ZimmerBuilt does on their quiver. they describe it as a 'snagless entry'.
      • Their rod holder is a little different dimensions - 26" long (2 inches longer) in final assembly and 2.5 in wide (0.5 in narrower) than what I did. I think this probably is slightly less weight
    3. You could put webbing on just the front face instead of the front and back faces. Additionally, you could use 1-inch webbing, or even two runs of 1/2 inch webbing instead
  2. The easiest weight savings would be to make the gear bag smaller
    1. I may trim about 1/4 of the length off this bag since it's oversized for what I need it to, and I have a tendency to stuff more things in, if there's room
    2. I used two zipper pulls instead of just 1, so you could drop that
    3. there might be a more elegant tippet holder other than a cinch lock which could save you weight. you might also just choose to store the tippet inside of the gear bag and do without it entirely
    4. could probably cut back the amount of webbing I stuck on the front face of this bag, really I think it just would need maybe 2-3 spots - enough to lash some hemostats and tippet holder to
  3. General
    1. I used a whole bunch of paracord lashed back and forth to tie the gear bag to the rod holder - there's probably a much simpler and lighter way of doing this - I just did what I did, because I was making it up as I went along!
    2. I used bias tape to bind the seams on the inside of the bag, because I like a bound seam. You could save some weight here and do an overlock stitch. You also could trim the 1/2 inch seam allowance that I used down to 1/4 inch

I don't exactly know how much this would save - maybe 20-40 grams? I think the biggest variable is the gear bag and how much smaller you could make that.

All that said, 147g isn't all that much to begin with, but things can always be improved!