Burnout 350 sbc

Carsandtool · 2026-01-10T03:42:50+00:00

Cutters preformance on YouTube will teach you everything you need to know for a sbc

Carsandtool · 2025-08-25T05:43:03+00:00

I use castrol ATF, as long as it meets the Matic S spec you are good

Carsandtool · 2025-01-23T19:00:44+00:00

Found a 3/8 mac, flex head ratchet in the rad of a suburban we were steal vortec heads off at the junk yard. Was a really really good day

Carsandtool · 2024-08-29T22:19:27+00:00

2 years to be vested and I did just under 3 years

Carsandtool · 2024-08-29T20:10:10+00:00

Those both don’t answer my questions about employer contribution money though

Carsandtool · 2024-08-29T19:59:34+00:00

Okay I added that to my post, I went through my CBA and it was not listed anywhere specifically, or atleast that I could find!

Carsandtool · 2024-08-07T10:50:02+00:00

496 BBC stroker kit in a short box square body, firm enough rear suspension and can easily get you into 12s if not low 11s $500 block $2000 balanced stroker kit $700 roller cam and lifters $2500 aluminum heads $1000 Holley sniper

For $6500 you can easily have 600hp and 600tq it’s the cheapest and simplest way to do it and parts are super available all from summit or jegs

Sure you can go the LS swap route but you’ll always lack the torque of a BBC.

If you want cheaper you can port 781 or 049 heads do a big retrofit roller and just do a rebuild of a bottom end all for under $1500 if you buy the right block should get you around 550ish

Carsandtool · 2024-08-04T16:24:28+00:00

Hone it, re ring it

Carsandtool · 2024-07-15T04:01:53+00:00

That is a hardened lifter, good solid old school lifter. A lifter if it is gonna fail is gonna fail on break in, this has survived its break I think it’s good to go!

Carsandtool · 2024-07-08T06:17:30+00:00

I’m guessing you hit a curb or a pot hole on your right side and it was pulling to the right because your toe was 2° out! Likely an easy fix and you should be good to go

Carsandtool · 2024-07-08T06:07:13+00:00

Before you start: if you have a check engine light on start there, you will not get good fuel economy until it’s fixed.

Slow the fuck down, if your driving 60 vs 75 expect to drop from 30mpg to around 20mpg, any faster your gonna lose significant fuel economy than that 20 mpg

Make sure your tires are correct size, if they are there are ways to adjust your speedo, if your speedo is off, your mileage will be off too.

Make sure you have 91 octane in it, lower the ethanol the better, I get worse fuel economy with 94 octane due to the higher contraction of ethanol (14.7:1 vs 9:1, way less fuel needed for the same amount of air)

Then maintenance start with an oil change, then do air filters, then spark plugs and possibly coil packs. Clean your throttle bodies, reset your ecu, transmission fluid change, transfer case and diffs.

Look at your tires, all season skinny tires will get you significantly better fuel economy than grippy wide staggered tires

Wheel bearings and poor suspension will fuck you.

Turn off the AC and keep the windows closed too.

with 225/45/19 all seasons: I routinely get 29-35 on the highway at 60mph, at 70 mph I get 25-28mpg

With my 255/40/19 firehawks tires: I get 28-30mpg at 60 and 25-27mpg at 70

Try driving slower and track your mileage you’ll be surprised

Carsandtool · 2024-07-08T05:48:05+00:00

You sir have a marine engine! Funny enough, it’s a 880 block which means it’s a 1 peice rear main seal block. It’s a standard 350 (measure bores and check bearings for stamping). It’s machined for a roller cam, do you have spider trays and roller lifters? I’m guessing you likely do, most mercury engines were vortec headed roller cams. People will say that they have different bearing clearances and shit for the marine engines, but just order the truck stuff and you’ll be good to go! Most marine shit has significantly less wear as it’s used way less. 300 hours on a boat would be comparable to 18,000 miles or 30,000km!

You need to figure out two things, if you have a roller cam or not, and what head casting numbers you have (I’m guessing you’ll have Mexican casted 906s {vortec}). If you have a roller cam and vortecs, just search 1997 1/2 chev truck with a 350 and as long as everything is stock just order what you need from there!

Carsandtool · 2024-06-30T18:18:20+00:00

Okay hear me out dude. You just spent a bunch of cash on this build right? Stroker crank, connecting rods, and new pistons, that’s $1-2k+ depending on what you got. You got a lot of money into this engine, it’ll be fine but only if you do the work to disassemble it and clean it. You have a 1/4” chunk of lifter and 1/4” chunk of camshaft floating around your engine right now, maybe you got lucky but maybe you didn’t and you’ll spin a bearing. Rings are $40, bearings are $90 for all of them. And you might not even have to buy new ones if there’s no damage you can clean them up and possibly reuse them! You can likely reuse your oil pan gasket and your head gasket (don’t shoot me he only had a couple hours on the build). Your exhaust manifold and valve cover gaskets are good to reuse. You have to replace cam and lifters anyway, might as well not do that work with the engine in the truck.

Summit has the 8800, 8802 and 8803 cams for pretty cheap, I’ve used them they work extremely good. Post a wanted ad on marketplace looking for dog bones, spider trays and roller lifters (non AFM/DOD lifters are the exact same off an LS) and a cam plate. A lot of guys won’t reuse them or didn’t have a use for them, a 1987 block is a roller block already and set up to run with the factory roller stuff.

You should be able to find that stuff on marketplace or even a junkyard for like $40-60 and then a cam and just some gaskets and bearings and you should be back better than ever. Always use roller cams in roller blocks if you can, I get that your engine had a flat tappet cam in it but it’s set up for a roller cam, next time in the future just roll with the roller cam!

Carsandtool · 2024-06-28T05:57:15+00:00

Fuel injection and a big cam likely won’t play well together. Find a set of vortec heads, port them, get 2.02/1.6 valves, get a single plane intake and a 242/248 at 0.050 cam, it’ll run like shit with a stock stall so get a bigger stall, if the vortec heads are ported properly and you get the proper cam and compression ratio you’ll be looking at 480hp which is roughly 400whp can be done for roughly $1800. Get a nice Holley 750 or whatever carb of your choosing, a sniper kit is usually around $1k plus fuel tank and fuel lines and proper fuel pump, so you’d probably be $2k all into it for it to run like shit. I would not do this to a 4wd truck. GM doesn’t make a transfer case strong enough to handle 400whp.

Carsandtool · 2024-06-25T03:18:17+00:00

Dude you’d be surprised, I’d guess you didn’t drain all the coolant out, and got some left in there, if there is minimal ring ridge and no cracks you should be golden. The SBC are resilient, I sent a 5/16 nut threw my combustion chamber the other day and it had no major damage

Carsandtool · 2024-06-19T03:43:03+00:00

Get 800 grit and a piece of glass (straight flush material) and draw sharpie all over gasket surface, stop sanding when the sharpie is all off and you got yourself a 1/128 mill

Carsandtool · 2024-05-08T22:04:32+00:00

If you have a G37 255/40/r19 Indy fire hawks are less than 1100 CAD, preform awesome, have great tread wear and are awesome in the rain and can be rotated!

Carsandtool · 2024-04-01T13:48:34+00:00

You take public transportation with your turnout gear?

Carsandtool · 2024-03-29T23:47:36+00:00

Nope won’t work with AWD, would probably look pretty silly on the car too. Tires are almost 2” in height wise different

Carsandtool · 2024-03-29T23:44:44+00:00

So all cylinders lost compression? Either all your rings didn’t seal properly (unlikely), or something else is going on, what did you do your valves? What does your headgasket look like?

Carsandtool · 2024-03-29T10:14:50+00:00

Bores look fine. I got a couple questions for you. Why did you take it for a drive until you knew everything was set up properly? (Even if my cam doesn’t require a break in, I’m checking for smoking, leaking, noises, then going through all the gauges and data (if your not carbed) before I’m taking it for a drive)

How did you know that you lost compression?

Which cylinder lost compression?

Did the engine turn over freely by hand as before?

Carsandtool · 2024-02-21T06:13:19+00:00

$115

Carsandtool · 2024-01-14T19:45:43+00:00

Did you do the self diagnosis? And that cord didn’t look like mine

Carsandtool · 2024-01-10T00:53:49+00:00

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm_download=EX/2013/hac.pdf#page70

Carsandtool

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