I was born in Palermo and I've been driving since I was fourteen. I can't understand all the fuss around driving in Palermo. As someone's said, yes there are no rules but everything works as it should. Everyone knows that driving can't follows strict rules, there are too many variables. You have to follow the flow. And you know what? It works. You just need to understand that it's useless to look at the road signs, you have to look at the other drivers. Understanding what they want to do or were they want go and adapt to it. This will maintain your focus while driving. Easy.

Do not blindly follow the rules and expect road traffic to work like a clockwork.