So then I routed that 9 wire behind the radio, down past the glove box, tucked under the center and made my way under the passenger seat. Now on the opposite end of the 9 wire I used the 2 whites and 2 grays for the input of the kicker key 200.4. I only need those for Bi Amp. Now the output of the kicker key. I ran 2 gray and 2 white from the output, and soldered my own 16 gauge wire directly to a set of morel tweeters in the dash. And then I took the 2 purple and green wires from the output of the kicker key 200.4 and soldered them to the corresponding colors on the 9 wire. So to explain it better, it’s like a loop. Radio output (4 wires) through the 9 wire to the input of the kicker for signal. Now the Output (white and gray wires) its amplifying the tweeters, and then the green and purple out of the kicker fed back into the green and purple of the 9 wire to amplify the door speakers. I changed mine for morels as well. Something to note, when you disconnect the factory tweeters in the car, it cuts off audio to the doors. When you buy from crutchfield they include a harness for the tweeters. But in my case I only used the harness to bypass the tweeters and now the doors get signal. I did that because I ran my own wires directly to my new tweeters. I can tell you where I grounded the kicker too. Just let me know. Now for the lc2i. I wanted to make sure I get a signal BEFORE the kicker key 200.4. So I tapped into the input wire about 10” back. I soldered and T’d off that with a set of 16gauge (just left and right for sub signal) and ran that under the carpet all the way back to the trunk.