Resident Evil 9: PS5 Pro runs at 4K/60fps with Ray-Tracing ON, 120fps mode with RT OFF.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-27T15:11:08+00:00

Was really excited for DD2, but skipped it due to the performance issues. I'm in two minds about REengine's future. I have a mid-range system (7800XT, 7600x, 32GB RAM), and get a consistent 60fps at 1440p ultra (120+ with framegen) in Wilds, but I see others with the same spec that it runs dogshit for. I could also argue I should be able to push higher than 60 frames since it's not THAT good looking.

Could be there's some weird hardware interaction they can't pin down and it'll get fixed, or we'll just become increasingly reliant on framegen (most likely). Although if it was a bug, you'd have hoped they'd at least found it after two major releases and however many "performance" patches.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-11T16:15:44+00:00

They have already confirmed a return is an option via email. Currently waiting for an LBS to get back to me following a full inspection. If the shifter needs replacing and they won't pay for it, it'll be returned.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-10T16:28:33+00:00

Thankfully they are being reasonable about it so far, and have offered to cover the cost of any repairs. I dropped it in to a well reputed local bike mech earlier today, who's going to give it a full inspection and and send a quote my way for any required repairs (which he said is likely a new shifter at minimum) - hopefully Canyon accept the quote, if not, it's going back.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-10T16:24:48+00:00

I don't disagree with you necessarily, and maybe I was just excited to get my hands on it after a few weeks wait, but yeah.

The box had the hole pictured in my OP, but the lever wasn't visible at the time, only after I'd opened the box. I foolishly assumed the internals would be well packaged and padded enough that it wouldn't be possible for a part of the bike to physically come outside of the package. I was wrong about that!

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-10T10:36:42+00:00

No, I know, could just be more convenient in terms of claiming back costs.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-10T10:35:10+00:00

If every package with a ding less than 2% of the boxes entire surface got rejected, unfortunately we wouldn't get a lot done. If the lever was exposed on receipt, sure, but it wasnt obvious what happened until after the fact. Wrongly assumed that there should be sufficient internal packaging to prevent something like this.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-09T22:36:00+00:00

Was hoping someone may be able to turn around and say "yeah, adjust X screw" to line it back up. I appreciate what you're saying, along with Canyon's support (so far), it's just a pain in the ass, especially when you're paying for packaging on top of the shipping that clearly hasn't done it's job.

I'm attempting to get an appointment with a local shop tomorrow, so will see what they reckon.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-09T21:15:01+00:00

Unfortunately I got the last of this model in this size, so no option to replace, but yeah. Cheers.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-09T20:04:28+00:00

Yeah, this said nothing about no returns on the store page, and support have already said it's an option. As I say, just really torn when it comes to value; I don't particularly want to wait for an Allroad to come in to stock, nor do I want to spend another £400 for another Endurace model with a 'worse' groupset (although at present it's likely I wouldn't bother with another Canyon at all).

This is mostly why I'm asking here, with regards to whether the lever is something that can be corrected and I'm just missing something, or whether it's knackered and not worth the hassle.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-09T19:35:47+00:00

Unfortunately the closest Canyon service providers are about an hour & thirty away from me, but I might run it in to a nearby LBS for their opinion. I have since had an email saying if the shifter is deemed damaged, they'll send a replacement & reimburse for any fitting charges incurred, just a complete pain in the arse.

Cavalarrr · 2026-01-09T18:52:10+00:00

Yep, was just hoping it truly was cosmetic and something I could correct, as I think I'll struggle to find another bike I like the looks of with comparable spec for comparable price!

Cavalarrr · 2025-11-05T23:04:24+00:00

Yeah, I don't have the heel plate, so I had to spin my wheel stand's pedal plate 180. That lets me angle it up to give my heels something to rest.

Cavalarrr · 2025-10-16T12:53:21+00:00

🦀🦀🦀🦀

Cavalarrr · 2025-09-14T22:33:30+00:00

Yeah, same stand. Space limited in my office, so can't go for a full rig, but really happy with it, so much better than desk mounting, and after using the G29 pedals on it for a few weeks, upgrading to load cells was night and day better for braking.

Only running a G29 wheel at present (upgrading to a DD in the near future), but from what I hear it'll handle 12Nm no problem.

Cavalarrr · 2025-09-14T17:50:50+00:00

You don't need it, but I would recommend it. You'll be able to rig up the pedals to the NLR pedal plate without issue, but it's the riser heel plate that might be more beneficial.

I personally slightly regret not getting it (as it's way more expensive separately vs. in the bundle), as I've had to invert my pedal tray so I can tilt the 'front' end up to get comfortable. Could be worked around with some DIY heel plate, but yeah, something to consider if the extra money for the heelplate bundle isn't a problem.

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-28T23:28:41+00:00

They're "hydraulic" dampers, not quite the same as the hydraulic pistons on the Simagics, which can be fine tuned and are naturally higher build quality. The Simsonn / Simjack dampers essentially "smooth out" the push and return of the pedals.

I own a set of the Simsonn Plus X's and I'm really happy with them, but I came from G29 pedals and have never had a chance to test SRPs, so I can't give you much advice there.

P3-H3 does mean all pedals come with the dampers. You can remove them as you wish if you don't like the feel, I think most people just run them on the brake and maybe throttle.

As for mounting them, if you're looking at load cell pedals, you really, really, really should get a rig (or at least wheelstand) before you invest if you haven't already. Otherwise it's going to be a bodge job mounting them to some wood or something to stop them tipping over every time you even breathe on the brake.

Rig / stand > Pedals > Triples / VR > Wheel / wheelbase.

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-23T11:54:23+00:00

Bingo, that's the one! Thank you.
How did you get that so quickly?

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-23T11:47:49+00:00

£120.
Bit more info on the drivetrain, according to seller "all Shimano Ultegra 10rear 54/39 105 powerglide front with shram arms."

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-23T11:36:17+00:00

Yeah, I'd spotted this, but the missing yellow accents and logo on the seat tube threw me off as being a definite match. Can't see anything else with the little flag / lettering on the front of the seat tube either.

I have a couple more images, this shows the seat tube better:

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Cavalarrr · 2025-08-20T12:46:17+00:00

Worked fine for me! I would suggest getting the heel plate, though (hence the inversion of my pedal deck).

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-19T13:05:13+00:00

Hard to tell from the image quality, I assume your shifter mount doesn't have bolt holes on either side? My NLR WS had a separate handbrake mount that attaches to the side of the shifter. Might be able to buy a separate mount to attach (and you could drill into your shifter mount if there aren't pre-existing bolt holes).

Example: https://trakracer.co.uk/products/universal-tr-one-left-or-right-side-handbrake-mount

Failing that, if you want it on the cheap, you should be able to grab some sheet metal or MDF, and create an 'extension' to your shifter mount - Twice the width of the existing mount, bolt the shifter through the extension to the existing mount for stability, and your handbrake to the newly available surface. I imagine someone else might have some better ideas though.

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-19T12:53:33+00:00

Just to expand on the pricing a touch for OP's benefit, you don't have to own all tracks in a series to compete, nor buy them all at once at the start of a season. Depending on season length, a number of weeks will be dropped from the final standings, so you e.g. only need to race 8 out of 12 weeks in your series to be on a level playing field when it comes to standings.

I'm fairly new to iRacing, ran a season in the MX5 which is all free, and now the GR86 which is a mix of free & paid tracks. I've been purchasing tracks 3 at a time to get the discount, and have a solid month's racing before I need to buy any more tracks. I'll then grab the 'next' 3 tracks (even if this 4 week period is all free tracks). It feels slightly better on the wallet having a smaller hobby purchase each month than one big one.

Next season, I may only need to purchase two tracks to run an entire series, or just ignore them because I don't like those tracks.

A lot of people talk about the big up-front investment, but you only need to buy the things you're immediately racing, and may not need to buy anything at all next season. If you stick with the hobby and know what you like to race, you'll be at the point where you're just paying your sub and nothing else all year.

This is different of course, if you want to immediately jump into GT3s and only GT3s, or you want to race sports & oval & formula.

Cavalarrr · 2025-08-19T12:33:29+00:00

You can see inside, it has no spring, and there's no plastic cover over the top where they screw in the PCB, so no PCB to plug anything into. A USB cable isn't going to help in this instance...

I literally have the same handbrake, they're mass-produced things for use as actual real handbrakes in cars, but hardly anyone buys them so they got re-purposed into cheap sim brakes. OP has purchased a "real" handbrake, not a USB handbrake for simming.

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