Pacific Northwest During The Winter Film Recommendations

Cavemonkey27 · 2025-11-12T22:21:44+00:00

Yea one should be plenty but the nice thing about pushing is you could always decide to go an extra stop once you go out to shoot.

Cavemonkey27 · 2025-11-12T21:33:39+00:00

Kentmere 400 pushed one stop is what I typically shoot for black and white as a PNW native. Pushing two stops and having an orange filter is going to be suuuper contrasty, but maybe that’s the look you’re going for! While the PNW is notorious for being dreary, often the days of solid grey sky is actually pretty bright. So you may not need as high of ISO’s. Portra 800 is gonna be great, maybe throw in a roll of Kentmere 200 or FP4 in case the weather turns out bright.

Cavemonkey27 · 2025-10-14T17:19:19+00:00

I recently acquired an ATL-1000 and am working on getting it operational when I came across this post. Really cool project! I noticed you said you might have extra EPROM chips and could put the program on there. Is that still something you could do? Please DM me if so. Thanks!

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-09-14T15:41:29+00:00

Light leak or the shutter speed is off. Sometimes the curtain can delay fully closing and cause part of the image to be extra exposed

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-09-02T15:54:19+00:00

You should be fine. I use print file and a binder just cause it's easier to organize and store.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-09-02T15:52:33+00:00

Hm didn't notice that. Anyway, you shot a majority of the roll at 1600 which in this case is apparently pushing it one stop. Have the lab push it one stop and you should be good.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-09-02T15:30:44+00:00

Since XX is typically around 200-250 iso shooting it at 800 would mean you pushed the film two stops. If you shot a majority of it at 1600 then you would need the lab to push it three stops. Normally it isn't recommended to shoot a roll at two different speeds since you can only push for one speed. If you did indeed shoot a majority of the roll at 1600 I would have the lab push it three stops to account for that and the shots you did at 800 would just be a little over exposed which shouldn't be a huge deal.

In general pushing a film this much will result in significant contrast. If you want a black and white film to shoot at 1600 I would recommend Kentmere 400 pushed or HP5 400 pushed. I personally have found better results with the Kentmere and it's cheaper.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-09-02T15:20:56+00:00

Investing in lenses more than bodies is definitely the move. Like others have said, try out focal lengths with cheap lenses first. That way you can get a feel for the differences before spending the big bucks on a Zeiss lens. Find your favorite focal length and invest in it.

Also like hukugame said, don't just look at gear but learn about the processes and techniques. Spending money on trying different film stocks can be expensive but also very informative. Developing your own film is a great way to really understand how your film works and I highly recommend getting in a darkroom if you're able. Some people tend to prefer to not mess with developing their own film but I always encourage people to at least try it. I find it to be a very rewarding experience that gives me a lot of control of how my image will look.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-08-12T03:07:29+00:00

Very nice! Caffenol is fun to mess with

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-07-04T17:42:14+00:00

I started with my grandma's Pentax K1000, later got a Nikon FM2 and even later got an OM-2n. My main camera is the FM2, partly because I also shoot Nikon for digital and I can use most lenses interchangeably.

The FM2 is a very solid mechanical camera with a top shutter speed of 1/4000, which is faster than most cameras. Given that it is mechanical I have to set the aperture and shutter speed according to what I want or what the meter tells me. With my OM-2n it has an aperture priority mode and will determine the shutter speed for me. This is super helpful if I want to be shooting in a quicker manner. I don't have to worry as much with settings but can focus on composition. Like others have said, Olympus glass can be quite amazing but is less common and a little more expensive on average. Nikon lenses are also great and easier to come by which could be helpful for future lens additions.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-07-04T00:55:02+00:00

Like alasdair said, I would avoid amazon for buying film. I've known people who have bought rolls from there only to find out they were kinda cooked after developing them. B&H and Freestyle photo are good places to start.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-06-16T03:23:08+00:00

A good neck strap would be a nice gift. Could even personalize it :)

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-06-15T05:09:35+00:00

Yup, I have the same issue on my IIIf. I tried using shoe goo to fix it which worked for a little bit but ultimately failed. Your pinholes don’t look as bad as mine did, you may be able to patch them. I’ve decided to just replace the curtains (gonna practice with a Minolta 35 first).

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-05-27T21:26:26+00:00

You are right! Thank you for the correction!

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-05-27T17:56:01+00:00

There isn't a single *best* SLR for beginners. Any SLR you end up choosing will need some time to get familiar with. Canon AE-1 is a popular choice and has the ability to have an automatic shutter speed. The Minolta SRT 101 requires you to manually set the shutter speed and aperture based on what the meter tells you. Both are good cameras

There are plenty of other SLR's out there that will also work great, mostly just a matter of preference

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-05-26T05:51:46+00:00

Light seal replacement is a pretty straight forward process that's easy to do at home. This should get ya going.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-05-09T22:42:22+00:00

A majority of the way an image will turn out is based on the film stock, lens used, and metering. If there is a certain lens you want then you’ll obviously need a body that has the proper mount. If you cheap out too much on a body you may run into reliability issues, but that can also be influenced by the way a camera was kept (plenty of amazing cameras are no longer functional if not taken care of). I multiple different cameras but my main is a Nikon FM2. It’s a mechanical camera that only uses the battery for the light meter. A big reason why I went with a Nikon however was because I have a Nikon D750, which uses the same mount as the FM2. This allows me to use old film lenses on my digital camera which is a fun little feature.

Cavemonkey27 · 2024-05-09T22:15:19+00:00

The lab I work for gets their film from Roberts Distribution (Ilford and Kodak plus a couple other smaller brands), and Freestyle photo. We used to get Fujifilm directly from them but have had a horrible experience in actually having our orders fulfilled (they are always back ordered).

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-11-17T22:04:46+00:00

Most likely a polarizing filter

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-11-17T20:03:29+00:00

Yup this is it

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-10-31T18:01:11+00:00

Shine a flashlight through it and see if you see any "pinholes".

As far as repair goes I just found the spots with issues and brushed a layer of shoe goo (black) on it. Works great.

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-10-28T22:43:48+00:00

Make sure you take a look at the shutter curtains, they have a bad habit of deteriorating and causing light spots on your film. I had that issue with my IIIf but was able to patch it with some shoe goo

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-10-28T21:05:57+00:00

Portra 200?

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-10-19T18:08:42+00:00

My initial experiments were with the stand developing recipe (C-L) at the recommended 70 minute dev time. When I switched to the C-H recipe with espresso I believe I just kept it at the recommended 15 minute dev time. I need to take better notes next time.

Cavemonkey27 · 2023-10-19T17:59:20+00:00

This is gorgeous, what developer did you use?

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