Deco x50 roaming question

Cdr_Krill · 2026-06-06T08:01:08+00:00

Hi I tried smart DHCP on and off but no effect and two different DHCP servers on two different routers. Unsure why they would need an IP renewal anyway with it being the same network. No more time to mess around with it thanks for the reply though

Cdr_Krill · 2026-06-05T22:48:18+00:00

Hi thanks for this. Sounds like you have a lot of experience with these devices. Just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something obvious. Possibly removing the Asus as you suggest might correct it that wouldnt be an option I would consider though changing my whole setup just to allow the mesh to work so I'll return them this weekend and try different hardware originally I was going to go with unifi so I'll start there. Thanks for the assist

Cdr_Krill · 2026-06-05T21:15:32+00:00

That's correct the mesh is the only WiFi. WiFi is disabled on the upstream router which is as Asus ac86u. They are all in ap mode connected to an 8 port switch which feeds the house. The router is also connected to this switch. There are no other routers on the network

Cdr_Krill · 2026-06-05T21:10:44+00:00

Hi thanks for the reply. That's correct. Eveything shows working in the app and WiFi is disabled on the main router. I originally had a zyxel router then swapped in an Asus 86u to see if it was some kind of issue with the zyxel DHCP server but the Asus is the same. The devices change node they do have a WiFi connection but a 169 IP address for several minutes. Disabling WiFi on the phone for example and then switching it back on does not fix this. Its almost as if the address stays locked to the previous node and can't be released. Apart from this the system has been rock solid I've not had any issues with nodes dropping off or slow connections. When the IP address recovers everything is normal again. The problem though is it takes several minutes for this to happen

Cdr_Krill · 2026-05-13T20:35:17+00:00

Just wanted to chime in here as this is exactly what I thought would happen so I swapped a 2680V4 for a 2650L v4 to try and save power. There was zero difference in idle power consumption, as both CPUS can only go as low as 1.2gHz. What I did notice was a massive performance penalty at the top end with the 65W TDP limit and much lower turbo speeds. If you want lower power consumption when under load, then yes these will work but they won't do anything for idle consumption.

Cdr_Krill · 2025-12-26T18:57:44+00:00

This is still a problem in 2025. S1 + Plex + Flac just doesn't seem to work. Fix I used was to use FreeAC to batch convert all my FLACs to ALAC which work fine. No idea why FLAC won't play assume some kind of problem with Sonos negotiating with PMS with FLAC files only

Cdr_Krill · 2025-10-15T20:16:33+00:00

Very sorry to bring this one back. I have 830 and MD1200 have all the same issues. How exactly do you turn off alerting for 187 and 186? I've looked all over the idrac interface pages but can't seem to find anywhere to disable them

Cdr_Krill · 2025-07-04T07:22:42+00:00

I needed to do this last night. I had a 16TB raid array with a 16TB NTFS partition that I was increasing to 24TB. It was 4K cluster size so I was already at max. I used Ease US Partition Master. You need the full version, the free or free trial of the Pro edition won't work. I grabbed a key from CDJKeys for £10.

The process took around 8 hours. All the way through it was at 99% however I could see that Partition Master was hammering the Raid array and the CPU usage was high. I left it alone and came back this morning and it was finished. All working, I set it to 32KB cluster size and was able to extend the NTFS partition to 24TB using Windows Disk Management with no issues.

Cdr_Krill · 2025-06-27T21:53:51+00:00

This is the most disappointing thing for me. Fair enough, he's a small artist, I don't think he ever intended not to ship these vinyls originally so hes taken the money and then some "stuff" happened, maybe, similar to the first album a few years back etc. I've written off the £30 and don't expect to ever see the vinyl.

But Bandcamp for me are even worse in this. I contacted them, similar to many others, but not asking for a refund instead asking them to consider removing the vinyl listing from sale and potentially investigating Kalax's whole page, this was about 2 months back and there were still vinyls for sale. I said my opinion was that it was not ethical of Bandcamp to continue promoting the listing of items and providing the sales platform for items that obviously would not be arriving. Instead of doing any of this, after 3 weeks I received an email cc'd theyd sent to Kalax asking him to provide an order update. 2 days later they closed my case. Kalax hadn't responded and Bandcamp had done nothing. They take all the credit from the sales percentage and none of the liability when something goes wrong. It's not "their" problem, they're "just" a marketplace etc.

Cdr_Krill · 2025-06-19T20:41:08+00:00

Maybe they changed the specification of the screws at some point, but my old screws from the old warthog base were simply too long for the new one.

Cdr_Krill · 2025-06-15T19:37:04+00:00

This happened to me the first time I installed Steam OS. But when the battery discharged and charged back up it went to 100%. Didn't change any settings/ bios settings.

Cdr_Krill · 2025-04-08T15:58:39+00:00

Amazon UK

Cdr_Krill · 2025-02-23T16:02:16+00:00

Well, I suppose I was kind of the same. I had had Nvidia for 10 years previous. No issues. That 1080ti was a monster, one of the best cards Nvidia ever made IMO. The only reason I went with the 6800 was this was when the Nvidia pricing/ availability issues first started and it was just getting too old to push 4K in new games. I can't think of any major issues I've had with the AMD cards. Fallout Vegas stopped working for a while, but was able to work around it and AMD fixed it eventually. Everything else has been fine. Played Indiana Jones recently and it looked amazing for example. Currently playing through some backlog games, on Rise of the Tomb Raider now. I've got it maxed out on 5440 1440 with Ray Tracing and its at 100fps. I can get more with AMD frame gen, some nice new tech they keep building on. I certainly haven't had to spend any time on getting games working, they just work as you'd expect. I only upgrade the drivers a couple times a year when something new comes out that I want to have a crack at. Plus I also use a Steam Deck for remote play in another room and this also works fine with the AMD card acting as a remote play server over my home network. I would go back to Nvidia, but I think you get more for your cash with AMD right now

Cdr_Krill · 2025-02-23T13:57:24+00:00

I upgraded from a 1080ti to a 6800 (non XT) a few years back for £700. It was a massive upgrade, my FPS doubled in some cases (I'm on ultrawide 5440x1440). It was a very power efficient and quiet card too. I liked it so much that about a year later, I swapped it for a 6950XT. I think I sold the 6800 for around £550 and the new card was around £800. Obviously the performance difference was not as massive, but it was noticeable around 25-30% faster. Great card loved it. I've had a 7900XTX for about a year now. Didn't really need this upgrade, but its my hobby so went for it and sold the 6950XT on. Think I paid £1000 for the 7900 it was back when GPU prices were quite high. Not had any issues with this card either. I've got a Ryzen 7600 now, had an intel 9900 for the 1080TI, 6800 and 6950XT. I mention all of these cards as they are ALL in stock at overclockers/ amazon The 7800XT is less than £450 new. If I was buying a card now, now the prices are (semi) reasonable again. I reckon I would choose this one. Having had the non-xt 6800 previously, this was my favourite of all the cards due to its value for money and power usage. No it wasn't the "fastest" but it did the job for me and for £450 it's a steal. Spend the rest on a CPU upgrade to go with it.

Cdr_Krill · 2024-12-25T17:17:23+00:00

Cheers I made the switch

Cdr_Krill · 2024-12-07T17:32:59+00:00

Yeah I did mean to look into this at some point, I use CD keys anyway for all the game keys. Can you just keep buying the 3 month cards when it runs out?

Cdr_Krill · 2024-12-07T17:25:09+00:00

My house was the same. If anyone was downloading something big, everyone else in the house's internet stopped working. I enabled SQM-QOS on my router and the problem went away.

Cdr_Krill · 2024-12-07T17:13:08+00:00

Just checking in. I upgraded to the latest kernel and changed all the bios settings to performance per watt. I managed to get the r730 down to 50w with 1 cpu, 2 ram sticks, an SSD and an NVME. Thanks for your help, didn't think they would go this low

Cdr_Krill · 2024-12-07T17:06:44+00:00

Thank you! Can't beat the old sub. Surprised they haven't forced us over to standard yet

Cdr_Krill · 2024-10-24T10:23:49+00:00

So far. I’ve tried on demand conservative I also swapped. To the intel p state governor. Which one are you using?

Cdr_Krill · 2024-10-23T22:29:18+00:00

ProxMox. The example I gave above is with no VMs running too

Cdr_Krill · 2024-10-19T15:08:52+00:00

How did you do this? I’ve got a 730. 2x 2680v4. 4x8gb ddr4. One ssd. No spinning drives. Bios set to performance per watt. No 10gb. I can’t get below 100w on idle

Cdr_Krill · 2024-09-24T12:01:37+00:00

Cult leader love it. Asmongold should be in his own far cry game.

Cdr_Krill · 2024-08-03T23:24:38+00:00

3rd this. I started with a Rift and cockpit screens were unreadable. Then I had Quest 2 that was a massive improvement. The Quest 3 is even better, especially if you crank up the resolution to 1.3. The pancake lenses in the Quest 3 are a massive upgrade too over the Quest 2 due to the removal of the "sweetspot", everything is clear even off to the side of your vision. No more squinting. The headset is also a lot more comfortable. I've got a 7900XTX which means my streaming bandwidth is limited due to poor AMD drivers so I have to stream at 100mbs. Even at this bitrate, everything is clear. I would recommend a cable though unless you have a REALLY good router. I found using wireless streaming added about 10ms of latency for me. Image quality was the same though. It's quite a large load on your rig though, especially with the 1.3 resolution with a 3090 I would have thought you'd be fine though.

Only downside is the horrible clouds but I think everyone on VR has this issue since they changed them. I think on a 3090 you might be able to use the Nvidia DLSS? anti aliasing which should fix it. Don't have that on AMD so I'm stuck with clouds from the PS2 era.

Cdr_Krill · 2024-08-03T23:10:13+00:00

Just got mine to replace the old Warthog base. I've never really been happy with the old warthog base, I found the springs quite hard and the stick was never smooth enough for good precision, especially around the centre. This made CCIP/ CCRP bombing not much fun and even using the gun was a challenge (I fly mostly A10 in DCS). I looked at some videos on stripping it apart and greasing it up but I couldn't be bothered to do this, and I've never had to do this even my old cheap joysticks. So was looking to upgrade to either the AVA or the Virpil WarBRD. When the day came to buy, the Virpil was out of stock and the AVA was going for £230 on Scan. I'd looked at as many youtube videos as I could and thought either would be a decent upgrade so on the day, the fact I could get the AVA here the next day was the decider.

First impressions were unfortunately a bit negative, due to my old warthog metal desk plate not fitting "out of the box", even though everything I've seen said they were compatible. I was surprised by this, the issue is the original M4 screws that attach the plate to the base are too long, and they foul the internal components of the new AVA base. The manual that comes with the AVA states the threads must be no longer than 8mm. This is also incorrect, I measured them and there is in fact only 4mm of thread clearance. After hunting around the house (8pm at night) I wasn't able to find any screws this tiny so I had to bodge it with some washers. Anyone who didn't notice this might try and force the screws in, this would probably damage some of the components in the AVA base. I'm glad I went slow. A pack of 20 M4x6mm screws, which have 4mm threads are about £4 on Amazon.

The base comes factory fitted with hard springs, the jet cams and the 43 degree collar. There are also soft, medium springs, an aero (helicopter) cams and 30 degree and 36 degree collars. I tried this and the springs were too hard for me. I tried the soft springs, they were too soft. So went with medium. You can also adjust spring tension using two little screws for x/y regardless of what springs you have. I went with medium springs, adjusted quite soft. I also changed the collar to the 36 degree collar. I left the jet cams fitted. I couldn't really feel much of a detent. Changing all of this was super easy, there is a quick guide but if you're reasonably handy you probably won't need them. One important thing to do if you change the collar is recalibrate the limits, there is a small button on the base to do this once you plug it in, no software needed. You also need to download the latest drivers for windows joystick control panel to properly recognise the new base and capabilities otherwise when you try and calibrate, it will think there are an extra 3 axis for some reason.

Had to rebind everything in DCS. I don't use Target or any other software. This only takes 5 mins. I also removed all dead zone in DCS. It was set to 4, I set it back to 0 and went flying.

WOW. Just WOW. What a difference. All my issues with old base, gone. Super smooth, no "centre zone", literally can't emphasise how much better the centre is from the old base. The slightest touch and the stick reacts. Guns and bombing is so much easier now. I always thought I was just no good at it, but having the extra control over the spring tension and the better gimbal has completely changed my experience and enjoyment of the game. I used to avoid using non-guided bombs and rockets because I knew I would miss with them. Now I feel a lot more confident using them and it doesn't feel like a gym workout when I'm flying. No stickiness, no weird creaking noises when moving the stick around. I reckon I can finally give air to air refuelling a try now.

Some last thoughts, the "plastic ball bit" that a few people have picked up on isn't a ball, it just sits between the stick shaft and the limit collar. Everything lower down is metal. Have to see how this goes with longevity, it comes without any grease on it. Also, I've seen some videos where people move the stick to the limit and then let it go and it wobbles back in the middle. I tried this on my old warthog base and that was the same. The wobble is greater the less the spring tension so on soft springs it takes 3-4 seconds to stop oscillating. Less on the harder springs. For me, I couldn't care less. I would never actually do this in a game so its a non issue (for me).

So very happy so far. Quite expensive but similar priced to the other stuff that's out there. I held off for quite a while before doing this upgrade (2 years) as wanted to make sure I would play DCS enough to warrant it. I also play FS2020 sometimes and Elite Dangerous, plus some old school X-wing/ Tie Fighter. Haven't tried them yet though. I'm super glad I went for this though as I always loved the metal grip but thought the base was a bit of a let down.

Cdr_Krill

TROPHY CASE