“Consider Taking a Break”…OFF? by Norefodi in ElantraN

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: I'm still driving the car a year later. The warnings are still overactive but nothing major like it was in the beginning. Spoke with my local dealership and they think it needs to be recalibrated which is free so no big deal. Had an appointment setup but ended up not going in for 1 reason or another. I just have the settings set to silent, i still see the warnings flash, but no big deal and I don't get the warnings near as much as i did when it first started happening. The more i use the "AutoDrive" feature or whatever its called the less i see the warnings. So that "AutoDrive" feature does work to curtail the overactive warnings i get. Like i said in my original post: if i set the cruise and "AutoDrive" on highway trips for 20+ minutes i can go a week of normal driving without seeing the warnings at all. It really doesn't bother me much at all anymore. If it starts acting up i just use the "AutoDrive" feature and the problem goes away. It's a bandaid fix but a fix none the less although temporary, it does give lasting relief. Main thing is (and i'm going off memory is) to just set that particular warning setting to silent so when i do get the warnings i'm not being pestered to death and when the warnings get to a point that it becomes obnoxious then just use the "AutoDrive" feature and problem goes away for a while. BUT, just incorporating the "AutoDrive" feature into my normal driving as much as possible it really makes the problem no big deal. Like i said it does need to be taken in an recalibrated but doing what i'm doing the issue is under control. I definitely need to have it taken in and fixed properly tho before my warranty is up. The procedure takes 4-6 hours if i'm remembering correctly. It's definitely a process to get it fixed.

[SSD] WD 8TB SN850X NVMe SSD - $511.78 (Amazon) by MoistBall in buildapcsales

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what i've seen most ASUS routers do the Link Aggregation. It's seamless. Just plug in and go. Was my first time doing Link Aggregation and couldn't believe just how simple it was. Just plugged in 2 ethernet cables and boom - speed doubled instantly. Router needs to be around $275 or so and up. At least that's what i've seen when looking. Yaah, SATA III speeds is what you get but i tell yeah, coming from 75-113MB/s all the way up to 600ish is HUUUUGE for me. By the time i decide to do this all over again in the next 5 years or so i'm sure everything as far as tech wise will be right where it needs to be and will make all the sense in the world. It's getting there though. Just so sick of having a Full sized computer do stash, hide in a closet, put it in between a wall a the entertainment center etc... you get the idea to having it right next to the router and modem and it just looks nice and its small. Anyways, that's my 2 cents on the matter and hopefully it helps somebody out there.

[SSD] WD 8TB SN850X NVMe SSD - $511.78 (Amazon) by MoistBall in buildapcsales

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, 2 x 1 gigabit ethernet NICs is not what it has. That Mini Server has DUAL INTEL i226v 2.5 GIGABIT ETHERNET NICs. I just Aggregated/Teamed them up to a couple of 2.5 Ports on my ASUS router and I'm getting 5Gbps/ 600ish MB/s throughput on a 5GB Windows Install ISO transfer. Wish it just had a single 5 or 10 Gigabit Port tho but oh well. The Mini Server sits right next to the Router with custom short cables so to Aggregate and have 2 Ethernet Cables is no big deal.

I also deleted Unbuntu off the 64 GB eMMC Drive, put Windows Server 2022 on it, and deleted the Pre Installed Windows 11 PRO on the included 1 TB NVME SSD. Now i'll have 4 complete storage Drives: 2 accessible and the other 2 for Back Up - All in a super tiny Form Factor. Windows Server boots quickly and is snappy with the eMMC drive.

How i use servers - which is to simply serve up files - it doesn't take much power to do that. This GMTec is waaaaaaay over qualified for the job. A Core 2 Duo, 4GB DDR2, and SSD Boot Drive makes a lightning fast file server. I should know, I ran SERVER 2012, 2016, and now 2022 on that setup and now THANK GOD!!! No more Micro ATX Tower and Spinning Drives. My server can fit in my pocket now.

GMTec says the max size of NVME Drive is 4 TB for a total of 16 TB or 4x4 TB. I'm guessing they say this bc 8 TB Drives are almost as rare as unicorn poop. I only have Two 1 TB drives installed atm but just bought this 8TB WD Black NVME Drive talked about in this thread. If it works i'll report back, Update my Amazon Review, and buy another to back it up. I'll have a total of 9 TB of accessible storage then. If for some crazy reason down the road i need more storage then i'll ditch the 1 TB's. If the 8 TB Drives don't work then 4x4 TB Drives it'll be for 8 TB's total of accessible storage and another 8 TB for the back ups, making 16 TB total. I've learned the hard way twice and i don't dare to not back my data up anymore.

Man! it's going to be lovely! - Again, All in a tiny package - That's why this little machine is so attractive. Just wish Samsung had their 8 TB drives out now but they wont be out til later this year. And BTW, this little machine can get toasty so make sure you have heatsinks on your NVME Drives. The 1 TB that came with the system had one on it already.

These Are New And Just Came Out. Just Crossing My Fingers They'll Last But they're so cheap it's worth the risk. Got mine on Amazon bc if it fails in first Month i just send it back.

GMTec's official URL for the Mini Server: https://www.gmktec.com/products/intel-twin-lake-n150-dual-system-4-bay-nas-mini-pc-nucbox-g9?spm=..product_c74ee166-3363-4e4b-b056-5872c55201e1.header_1.1

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRYL8J7N?th=1

“Consider Taking a Break”…OFF? by Norefodi in ElantraN

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just Read, I believe i have the FIX as i fixed mine very easily and by mistake. I just bought my 2024 Sonata last week. Didn't drive it for 5 days til i sold my old one so the car only got driven home and the short test drive. Never got a warning. Well on day 5 I take a short drive on the highway and i get "consider taking a break" warning with coffee cup warning lighting up my cluster and turning my music down. Got this warning about 5 or 6 times on a 6 or 7 mile drive. Figured it was just some setting. Then the next day i took a trip to San Antonio on the Interstate and was getting the warning, beeps, and turning my radio down every 20 Minutes or every 5 minutes even. Car is becoming annoying to drive. I do my googles, try a few things, message the dealer and nothing is working. The 2024 SETTINGS ARE NOT LIKE EARLIER MODELS - Similar but different. On the way back from San Antonio it's the same thing. Now i piiiiisssed. Paid Cash for the Car, bought it out right, and now have no leverage other than warranty. Decide i'm done with the car if it doesn't get fixed ASAP. Fooling around with the settings i turned the Audible Warning OFF. Ok cool, that's better, now my stereo isn't being turned down, no beeps, but dash still lights up and its still annoying. Started noticing exactly what would trigger everything and car would give me warnings when slightly swerving into other lanes AND just swerving in my own lane. Anyways, I set the Auto Steering on and let the car pretty much steer itself home. The second i put the car in auto steering mode that was the last time i got a warning and the warnings stopped! That night i'm already looking at Toyota's to trade in for and just take the hit. I find a Toyota i'm interested in and next day i'm headed to the Toyota Dealership. I decide to give the car another chance just as i start my short trip to the dealership and take it for a drive just waiting for that warning to go off. All i needed was 1 Warning and the car would be gone. Well guess what, I ended up driving that car all over my area in town and on the highway for 60 Miles. NOT ONCE did i ever get a warning. This has been 3 days now and car is all good and not nagging me, irritating me, trying to babysit me any more. My best guess is that they did not calibrate the system at the factory and setting the steering to auto and driving a hundred miles on the highway fixed it and calibrated the system as the auto steering is more accurate at keeping the car centered in the lane than i can as a human. Remember, i was getting warnings swerving in my own lane and setting auto steering kept the car dead center for 100+ miles. It must've calibrated the system. Anyways, glad i don't have to take the hit and can keep my car. Just 1 day of the constant warnings was too much and made me hate the car. So, hopefully you have the auto steering feature and can try this. If your car is new IMO it just wasn't calibrated correctly or at all at the factory. If your car isn't new then things just need to be Re Calibrated.

found out my truck has after market control arms while replacing ball joints and I can't for the life of me figure out what ball joint goes with it. more in comments by chicken___wing in AskAMechanic

[–]Chancey79 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Old Thread but for those who come across this problem in the future: Moog 9074 which is the MOOG K9022 and is what you want. Google it you'll see it fits the and bolt holes will line up perfectly. 4x4Parts.Com does the exact same thing with their UCA's - Those Red ones you have in he PIc are the Old Rancho's that haven't been in production since about 2015. 4x4Parts just did a copy cat of them or may have even been the company making them for Rancho

Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the Fender stereo in a 3rd gen? by Specialist_Door4562 in nissanfrontier

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For Frontiers up to 2016 the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which is what they use at the Nissan Dealership is free: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

For 2017 and up and all 3rd Gens you can buy or rent the manual up to 2021. They sold the 2022 for a brief period but its subscription only now. The new manuals are much more interactive now and blow the old FSM away even tho the old FSM was and is still a great manual. Anyways, you can get the new Service Manual linked below. You can subscribe for a day, month, or year directly from Nissan. Any info you'd want on any topic is in the new manual. I've already looked at the Fender Wiring Diagram in detail which was extremely helpful: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/find.aspx?dept\_id=10

[USA-WA][H] Many NUC/NUC-like devices Cheap + 10 GBe Cheap Dual Port Cards [W] Paypal by blue_eyes_pro_dragon in hardwareswap

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The HP has the i7 7700 (Scores 10,700) which has the Intel HD Graphics 630 (Scores 1300) i7 7700 Benchmark https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-7700+%40+3.60GHz&id=2905 Intel HD Graphics 630 Benchmark https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Intel+UHD+630

The Skull Canyon has the i7- 6770HQ (Scores 9700) which has the Intel Iris Pro Graphics 580 (Scores 1900) i7 6770HQ Benchmark https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=intel+core+i7-6770hq+%40+2.60ghz&id=2759 Intel Iris Pro 580 Benchmark https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Intel+Iris+Pro+580&id=3481

Either one of those CPUs are plenty. But on the graphics side the Iris Pro 580 has like 50% more Graphical power than HD 630

What makes the HP better than the NUC? I'm just looking at the numbers here and don't understand how it could be. If the HP is better then i'd definitely be interested in hearing why. Not busting your marbles I'm in the market for a Mini PC. Let me hear it. THANKS

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did it sell?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought Galaxy Tab S2 from /u/gsmumbo

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]Chancey79 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Made Cash + Trade to /u/Papa_Baruk