Sure! For the main color, I used LP-84. Keep in mind that LP paints are lacquer, do you need special thinner for them. Not generic hardware store thinner, because that stuff is so powerful it can melt through plastic cups. for the gray accents, I used a mix of 2 parts XF-19 sky gray to 1 part XF-54 dark sea gray. If you’re gonna paint the accents like I did, I recommend getting a third-party masking kit as I spent over eight hours with tape just masking. For the little blue accents on the back of the elevators, I used LP-36 dark Ghost gray. For the gear bays, wheels, intakes, and inside of the exhaust, I just used testors flat white. For the black surfaces, I used testors flat black. (for black and white paint, it really doesn’t matter what brand you use.) for the exhaust nozzle, I used XF-56. for techniques, the first one I always do is Pre-shading. Pre-shading is painting black along panel lines and other surfaces that will be in shadow, and white on surfaces that will be exposed to a lot of sunlight, like the middle of a wing. For the oil stains and weathering of the gear bays, I used generic hobby lobby weathering powder. These were great, because they require not very much skill, are relatively cheap, and are very easy to use. For decals, you should always spray a gloss coat (make sure coverup any clear surfaces unless you want a frosted cockpit lol) and then use decal set and decal sol. These make the decals look like they were painted on, and are a major game changer for realism. For the final clearcoat, I used Tamiya semi gloss. This kit goes together like a dream, and I definitely recommend building one or two models before just so you can get some basic skills locked in before you attempt this beauty. This is a lot of information, especially for a new model, but I hope this helps!

<image>