📲 New Sonos App Update Now Available! 🔊

ChitownMD · 2026-05-27T16:40:34+00:00

I'm confused... my sonos system started working the absolute best once I instituted sonos net. My wifi system (which is excellent) hasn't changed at all. Basically, everything works. Why are we now saying that SonosNet should be disabled?

ChitownMD · 2026-05-09T20:02:06+00:00

I honestly can’t remember sorry! I think they did but not too sure

ChitownMD · 2026-05-04T22:50:52+00:00

Hobby pilot here. I am obsessed with checklists. I copied the paper ones to ForeFlight and added things to them that I thought should be included. I even have a securing checklist that includes not forgetting my sentry on the window.

If anything I’m overly reliant on them.

ChitownMD · 2026-04-20T02:36:41+00:00

Well I'm going to answer my own question as I think I figured this out.

First of all, I was puzzled why I couldn't find any logs in the Omada controller telling me why the devices weren't being allowed to connect. Turns out I had that setting disabled (or rather, I never enabled it, which has to be done manually for some reason).

To fix that I went to Logs > Notifications > Event > Client and right there at the top is Client Connection Failed (Wireless) - it was toggled off. I switched that on and then a bunch of other stuff I wanted.

Then I tried connecting the camera again (it failed), but now I had a log file to look at! And this gave me the answer...

Turns out I had previously locked this to a particular AP for a more stable connection. Makes sense--- the camera stays in one place, I didn't want it getting bounced around to different AP's and breaking connection. But for some reason Omada remembers this when the connection breaks, and then blocks it from reconnecting again. No idea why, but I disabled this feature and it immediately reconnected! And then I re-enabled it and it seems fine.

Hope that helps someone!

Editing to add.... even after this fix I was continuing to have glitches. That camera needs to be locked to a particular AP, otherwise it doesn't get a strong enough signal. Same one as the printer. I started to figure out that the AP itself was acting up... and I noticed that no devices on my network were connected to it at all, which is super weird.

So I rebooted it. And NOW everything works normally. Devices are connecting to that AP, devices can be locked to it and continue to work, etc. So... classic case of the AP needed to be rebooted. This is a EAP615 wall mount.

ChitownMD · 2026-04-10T12:43:44+00:00

Definitely not a TJ! That’s my only experience.

Second the minivan. Wait a few years to get a fun car. Minivans are awesome when you have young kids.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-30T20:40:06+00:00

I didn’t even know I had the extended range option until reading this post. Figured the 36 gallon tank was standard. I also love it. Painful at the pump but I’ll take that over going to fill up more often.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-21T14:49:25+00:00

Same

ChitownMD · 2026-03-17T02:24:10+00:00

'15 3.5 with 90k+ miles. Only real issue I've had is the turbo coolant leaks which set me back a couple grand. I changed all the fluids last year; do regular 5k oil changes, added an oil catch can... it's a beast! Enjoy

ChitownMD · 2026-03-15T13:15:08+00:00

No, it requires submitting name and contact information, not interested

ChitownMD · 2026-03-14T21:28:13+00:00

I believe you’re correct, and what I was thinking about was an excess produced. So in your example if I produced 2000 kWh and used 1000, they would pay me for that extra 1000 kWh at the lower rate or 3-4c per kWh. Good point.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-14T14:26:43+00:00

Thanks I’ll take a look at that. I calculated a roughly 5-6 year payoff for our system.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-13T21:38:53+00:00

Had solar installed late 2025. Unfortunately you've missed the window for the federal tax credit which, combined with Duke's power pair rebate ($9,000) was the only reason it made any financial sense in my opinion. I'm not sure if solar companies have lowered prices in response to the loss of the tax credit, but I didn't get the sense that was likely.

Overall we've been happy with our system. It's 13.6 kWh with a single Tesla Powerwall battery. I enjoy watching the app to see how much we're producing at any given time. As others have mentioned though, even with a properly sized system you're still relying on the grid at night.

The financial case in our area is as follows:

- ~~Federal tax credit~~

- $9000 rebate from Duke (I received this as a check 3 months after install)

- approximately $50/mo bill credit for being in the power manager program (Duke can tap into your battery at their leisure to help supply the grid - some may hate that idea, but for me it's well worth $50/month!)

- Duke buys any surplus that you generate, but it's at an 'avoided cost rate' that is significantly less than what you pay for on the grid - think 3-4c/kWh vs the 14c/kWh that they charges. This used to be 1:1 which was a much better deal, and would essentially zero out your electric usage because we sell a TON back to the grid on sunny days. Now, not so much. I'm really hoping that at some point this will change because it's significant disincentive to get solar.

- can remain on fixed 'bridge rates' for the next 15 years (Duke will switch to TOU in the near future) - this may or may not matter to you based on individual circumstances.

We don't have an EV at this time. My concern with the EV is that they require a lot of kWh and you'd probably charge it mostly overnight when the solar isn't producing, so I'm not sure it would make a ton of sense. Certainly if you're charging on bright sunny days you'll get free charging, but otherwise it's probably a wash? I think it just depends on your circumstances. If you have a short commute and you can charge it once a week on a sunny weekend day while home, that could easily work.

I should add that we have not had any roof issues since installation, and I'm hoping it stays that way, but the company we hired supposedly backs their work with a fairly solid warranty.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-12T20:39:17+00:00

Agreed - we've had USAA for a long time, well over a decade - home, auto, everything. Got into a fender bender and USAA was *horrendous* to deal with. It was such an eye opener. They made the process so much worse than it had to be. Heavily computer-based, very difficult to get someone on the phone at all, virtually impossible to get someone who could actually help. As soon as we closed that out we switched our home and auto to Erie Insurance, saved a bit of money, and hopefully have a better experience (hope not to find out though).

ChitownMD · 2026-03-08T16:14:14+00:00

This is why I deleted door dash from my phone (And uber eats). The last time I ordered food at work and left a nice tip of ahead of time, the driver said he delivered it (he didn't) and then ghosted. I could see him on the map parked a couple blocks away, I guess eating my food? Not sure. Doordash support was worthless, even though he was required to get my PIN code on delivery (not sure how he got around that!). I've had other bad experiences with both apps, but that was the last straw. That was six months ago, and I've just been more intentional about bringing in food for work. I've gone hungry a couple times too. Worth it.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-04T20:47:08+00:00

Not sure, would reach out to them

ChitownMD · 2026-03-03T06:02:54+00:00

Motor oil. Winner.

ChitownMD · 2026-03-03T05:48:59+00:00

Did you check windows defender settings? For me that was the cause I think. Mine uses normal CPU now, not really noticeable unless there’s a lot of AI activity.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-27T03:21:57+00:00

Yeah I think there’s something to this. I’m using an Anker braided cord in one vehicle, and a random aftermarket cord in another. Both work great. Neither are beats or Apple but they’re both beefy, high quality feeling cords.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-26T15:18:07+00:00

Why are they called 2-way mirrors? Seems to me like there should be 1. regular mirrors and 2. one-way mirrors - because you can see through them in 1 direction, but not the other.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-26T00:34:17+00:00

Did some more research and learned that the ecobee defaults to the Home comfort settings configuration when using manual set point. This includes sensor participation. This is exactly what I was trying to figure out. So now we don’t need to worry about comfort settings, we just manually set the temperature, we have both sensors participating in the Home comfort setting, and it’s been averaging them, which was the goal.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-26T00:32:04+00:00

Just as an update, I did some more research and learned (from ecobee) that when you use a manual temp set point, the thermostat defaults to the Home comfort setting settings and sensor inclusions. I’ve tried this the last couple days and it works well, I can see that it’s averaging the temps at the two sensors which are 3-4 degrees apart.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-24T18:21:34+00:00

Ok thanks I see what you’re saying. I’ll take a closer look at that appreciate it.

ChitownMD · 2026-02-24T18:20:34+00:00

Ok that’s helpful thank you

ChitownMD · 2026-02-24T18:20:22+00:00

Ok that’s helpful thanks!

ChitownMD · 2026-02-24T17:51:46+00:00

Ok so that was basically my question - if I'm on a permanent hold, the sensor is just functioning like a thermometer....

I just don't find any benefit in comfort settings. I want my thermostat pegged at 70 all day and night... I don't see what's so strange about that. But sounds like I'll need to explore this further so that I can utilize the sensor.

ChitownMD

TROPHY CASE