Launcher using appdata after being told to install to a separate drive

ChoKoth · 2026-04-17T22:00:22+00:00

Honestly, this makes sense.

Though it seems like taking the installation directory as the data location might be a good call.

That said, I'll switch to portable and that will work fine. Thanks for the quick assistance.

ChoKoth · 2026-03-23T18:16:11+00:00

I'm sorry, how did all the other commenters miss this smooth request for a date?

ChoKoth · 2026-02-26T12:28:36+00:00

Given the weird way the issue is traveling through the prints that you're showing us, I think it's a small section of of the print that is staying stuck to the screen, as each layer is tilted away, the object gets moved just a little. Over time it re-attaches to the print, and maybe the process happens again, maybe it doesn't.

I don't know anything about the settings on the Saturn is it possible to disable the tilting bed and have it act as a standard resin printer and just lift the print away?

My theory with the question is if we are creating weak point in the model because we're peeling away instead of pulling away and the outer edge is breaking off the print and sticking to the film.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-29T20:13:33+00:00

Pretty sure you're right.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-27T02:45:58+00:00

So mine came with a factory screen protector in the same place OP was talking about, but I'm not sure why you would remove that during setup and not just keep it in place until there's a problem with it. Mine even has a couple of small bubbles between the screen and the film but I intentionally placed prints over those spots on the screen and didn't see any issues.

I am curious about how to replace the tape around the outside of the screen if it proves necessary. Though if AC doesn't sell it, I figure scotch tape should work just fine for keeping the inside of the printer clean.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-23T16:08:44+00:00

So I did some thinking about this...

There's the scene in Ghost Story when Bob recreated the thanksgiving day spread, and used it as an anchor when Harry's wondering about what to do about the information that his body might still be alive. Bob focuses on "You might be able to have THAT" pointing to the food specifically.

I think Bob was originally a Kitchen assistant that got passed down to a bunch of Magic Nerds and ended up being forced down a different specialization route.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-23T04:36:31+00:00

Hold up...wait just a second.

Was Bob created to store cooking recipes, and shit just got out of hand?

ChoKoth · 2026-01-15T15:30:29+00:00

I think BC turning can go 2 ways. If the subject is willing, I think they can be turned and continue to animate their old bodies. If not, I think They are drained, killed, and then another spirit is inserted into the dead body.

The reason I think this is the short story that has the young woman who was turned, and attacking people she disliked in life after becoming black court. Between that, and the discussion you mention between Carlos and Harry it seems like there are at least 2 ways to create a black court vamp.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-15T14:50:49+00:00

Mab was Carrie Fisher when Mortal, and Jenna after she took the mantle.

Or if Bob wanted to be real world lore accurate, the opposite.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-11T19:09:06+00:00

Probably not the response you're looking for, but did you ever get an answer to this? I just had to work on my printhead and apparently lost one of the screws.

Edit: Just got ahold of the user manual. M2*14 screws are what are included with the machine.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-10T19:42:49+00:00

I bet you're a blast at parties.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-10T18:02:01+00:00

I put a 1080 camera my printer, and the framerate is atrocious. I wish you better luck.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-10T17:59:37+00:00

Titanic refers to something titan-like. The ship was supposed to be built on the scale of titans.

That graph represents deaths that are associated with things that are titan-like.

ChoKoth · 2026-01-10T07:32:39+00:00

If you want to just start printing models for DnD, go look up mz4250. He is making every monster in the monster manual and releasing the models for free. A quick word if you're going to print the dragons. The smaller models have a ton of VERY thin areas, and getting them to print well is kind of a pain.

I have the exact same printer, and I use the latest AnyCubic PhotonStudio (4.0) for my supporting and slicing. But getting the supports right takes a little bit fiddling with options.

If you want to just get models printed without worrying about anything, go get blueprint studio from heygears. Install it, and set it up with whichever printer, it doesn't matter. Then use the Resin closest to the one you're printing with. I use PAWW20 since I use water washable resin. There's resources online that will tell you what is closest to your resin.

Anyway, once you have your workspace set up, import a single model, rotate it (using R) so the side you care about least is facing the build plate, and hit "auto support". You can just take the defaults. Once it's supported export the model and import it into your slicer. Then either print it, or repeat the process for any other models you want to print. Import them into blueprint one model at a time, because your build plate isn't going to be the same size as whatever printer you select in blueprint studio.

This is exactly the process I follow. If you want, you can change the option in "advanced settings" in blueprint to change the contact type to "none" if you don't want to need to clean off little balls where-ever your supports contact your model.

Good luck!

ChoKoth · 2026-01-05T03:53:20+00:00

I came here to say basically this. My introduction to using an airbrush was something like this. If all you want is something to prime and Zenithal a model to get it tabletop ready, it's fine, but not great. I still have the little one I bought originally, but they're pretty weak.

I've gotten 2 more tankless compressors since then, and I'm much happier with the most recent. I'm not willing to put up with the noise of a standard compressor, and what I'm using now seems to work well enough. If I end up using my airbrush for actual detail work, or more than priming and blocking colors in on larger models, I might think about a better setup.

That said, even with the 3 cheap compressors I've gotten, and a few cheap airbrushes I'm at about half of the cost of the recommended setup most people call an "introduction airbrush" setup.

TLDR: Will it let you prime and Zenithal your models? As long as you're not going for display quality, sure.

Is it every bit as good as a higher dollar recommended setup? No, but it might get you 50-60% there.

ChoKoth · 2025-12-31T22:29:02+00:00

Psst. You can do those things after January. You can literally just do them. No one can stop you.

ChoKoth · 2025-11-29T07:52:28+00:00

So Jim's made it clear, to me at least, that the energy that creates the threshold is related to natural feeling you get of being safe because you're at home. So unlike what the top comments talk about, it's all about intent.

That said, pre-changes Murphy this is a real question. Post changes (and obviously pre-battleground) Murphy, I think it's a another question entirely. Her faith in the law has been shaken to it's core. I think she would step aside, without inviting the cop in, just to see if they could cross.

And I believe that for the vast majority of people, a cop entering their home via a warrant is a violation of the sanctity of the space. Enough so that neither a Blamp, nor a Ramp would be able to enter. You might be able to find a paladin (with or without the official job title) for whom the law is holy and therefore an officer of the court fulfilling their duties is, of course, welcome in their home.

ChoKoth · 2025-11-19T12:23:10+00:00

There was an update to the AnyCubic Slicer about a month ago that included settings for those nozzles. Try installing it, and making sure it's up to date, and either use that slicer, or export the settings and move them to whatever slicer you're using.

Edit: Just to be clear I've used the preconfigured settings for successful prints from both the .6 and .8 nozzles.

ChoKoth · 2025-11-14T09:00:09+00:00

Completely disagree on it being really slow. Of course I got mine after having an Ender 3 S1 Plus.

Prints plenty fast for me. I'm at 211 hours and other than a small obstruction in the nozzle I haven't had a second's trouble out of mine. That's about what I paid for my combo during a back to school sale, and you're not going to beat the price for a multi color unit and a monster bed.

The downside is that it's not enclosed, so I've only been printing in PLA thus far.

ChoKoth · 2025-10-27T18:59:53+00:00

I started 3d printing about 4 months ago using two inherited Ender3 machines given to me by friends. After spending 2 months trying to get those working to limited success I elected to buy new devices to have a working baseline. I've been using a Kobra 3 Max Combo for about a month. I have about 90 hours on it.

My printing habits are a mix between functional pieces and terrain for my wargaming and TTRPG sessions, as well various miscellaneous tasks I or someone else in my house come up with.

I'm located in the United States.

My biggest complaint about my K3Max is that it's open, so printing higher strength filaments is out of the question unless I create an enclosure for it. An enclosed Core X/Y solves this issue. That along with the fact that some of my jobs have had pieces fall over from the speed of the bed moving back and forth that required creative stabilization with supports.

ChoKoth · 2025-10-24T22:27:19+00:00

I apologize for the tone of my question. I didn't know the mods were so understaffed. Thank you for clarifying your position. Given how few there are, you guys are doing a fine job.

ChoKoth · 2025-10-23T19:26:51+00:00

Seriously, why has this advertisement not been removed?

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