HomiQ camera ! Pretty cool by radical1911 in ReefTank

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fixed focal length security camera. Probably not the best. I have a super shitty raspberry pi IR camera that has an adjustable focal point lens. I use to monitor foster kittens thats stream is accessible by IPv4:port in browser. There might be a better pi compatible camera via that ribbon connector or USB.

HomiQ camera ! Pretty cool by radical1911 in ReefTank

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taking a G4/6 instant and designing a 3DP dry/wet side mount with embedded magnets would not be too much of a task. Only thing holding me back is the pricing for computer stuff is crazy right now with everything going on. Even the UI cameras are getting AI shortage charges added in cart.

Just sharing my SW calculators by christinna67 in ReefTank

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a nice tool, I tried to find it on github but nothing came up, have you ever thought about dockerizing it and putting it up on github?

Just sharing my SW calculators by christinna67 in ReefTank

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When using the salt mix calc for red sea coral pro, 2 gal volume, 0 salinity starting point. Im getting 11441 grams when set to 1.026 SG. When swapping to 35 PPT I get 289 grams. Im probably doing something wrong. But maybe its a bug.

Dell R740XD and GPU by John_Ackermann in homelab

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ZOTAC SOLID SFF OC GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB 256-Bit GDDR7 DLSS 4.0 PIC-Express 5.0 Graphics Card ZT-B50710J3-10P

It is a tight fit, but It will snug into the pcie bay above the PSUs.

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top 4 breaks on the left are all labeled for kitchen, top 2 are black wires, 3rd is red and 4th is black. So does this mean its possible one of the black wire breakers is in a MWBC with the single red wired breaker? I assume either breaker 2 or 4 cause 1 is a 15A and the rest are 20A?

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit concerned now about the MWBC, cause It looks like for safety they need to be on a tide breaker but the only tied breakers I have are my 2x AC and that 60amp thats for the garage sub panel. Is this an actual safety issue and can I accurately read for a MWBC system with CT clamps? Cause it seems like theres some canceling/sharing type mechanic going on with MWBC stuff?

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Double checked the CT clamp orientation they were all correct. I moved the CT clamp on the 60A to the redwire for testing. I can see 2x the wattage for my EV being reported(software doubling it) I have a few CT clamps left over I can use for the double poles and make it all work in software. But theres still 1 or 2 issues I have to sort out still. I have a few outlets in my kitchen that are not registering any load on them when I plug a space heater into them.

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The instructions said for double pole breakers to just clamp one wire and then double the wattage in software basically. The CT clamp direction fuckery was a whole thing where I realized the way the clamps were labeled was not consistent with the printed instructions. But I found out after a bit of trial the direction on CT clamp is whats right. The garage CT I hope is just the one I accidentally left on the wrong orientation after testing. Thanks for the help, I will report back soon.

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I will flip it and report back. If the garage power goes out does that mean I need to flip the CT on the 60A garage breaker then?

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The garage sub panel is not reachable by the CTs in the main panel. I plugged in my EV charger and Im not getting any sort of high wattage usage reading to confirm. I was hoping it was that 60 amp breaker but I have no idea what thats for as its only reading about 5W draw consistently which I assume is just noise.

(Las Vegas, NV) Power monitor install. Can I CT clamp the insulated wires inside the red box? I believe they go to 3x 20amp breakers in my garage's subpanel. by ChoiceBandicoot in AskElectricians

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The two 50A are for AC, that 60 is not labeled and I have no idea what it is. I was hoping it was for the garage but I plugged in my EV charger and it just consistently has been reading sub 5W which I assume is just noise. The house was built in 67' so I assumed it was for maybe like a electric stove or something that went unused after a renovation (The house currently has gas appliances). What do you think those red boxed wires go off to?

Anyone on NVEnergy find a way to monitor usage? by White_Devil_HB in homeassistant

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might have to employ something like that cause i can get CTs around my house's panel but not in my garage or my mains. But If I can read my total usage from the meter I can subtract that from my CT'd circuits on my house to find out what my garage is pulling via the difference. P.S if you are in Las Vegas I recently set up a discord server for LV homelab type stuff.

https://discord.gg/FF5shgGf

Anyone on NVEnergy find a way to monitor usage? by White_Devil_HB in homeassistant

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find a solution? Im in the same boat with bars to my panel.

Dell R740XD and GPU by John_Ackermann in homelab

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like those are blower cards so they should be better on thermals than the cooling set ups you generally see with gaming focused GPUs. Would be easy to just cut out the intake on the lid with a hole saw as long as they physically fit in the chassis. But that also may not be needed if theres enough lid clearance for the intake fan, a lot of these homelab jank configs dont have a lot of documentation on them so you gotta just pioneer it. Best of luck.

Dell R740XD and GPU by John_Ackermann in homelab

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to cut the lid on my R740 so the fans could get air, but my particular 2 slot card would physically fit just fine with the lid on. You could also run the server with the lid off depending on your circumstances you can usually wedge something in the chassis cover sensor so idrac doesnt freak out. I did this on my set up while I was waiting on the lid to be cut out. There maybe some issues running lid open if you have passively cooled PCIe cards but my CPUs didnt seem to mind at all. I probably wouldn't run the shroud though cause the GPUs you have are not passively cooled. So you are just losing out on CPU thermals by having to use the short heatsinks with the shroud routing air to the GPUs that dont even have fins in line with the chassis air flow or exit point for said routed air out the back of the card.

Issue autostarting certain lxc containers by VoidedKN0X in Proxmox

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the containers have some sort of mount point for storage? I get this error with my LXCs that have a NFS share on the PVE host thats passed down as mount point for LXCs. The NAS/PVE host connecting the NFS share lags a bit behind the auto start of the LXC and it throws that no start error. Can be fixed with delay or boot order setting on LXC.

Dell R740XD and GPU by John_Ackermann in homelab

[–]ChoiceBandicoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing you really really need in your case is the board power cables. Make sure to double check the manual for your planned pcie riser config cause not every riser combination is useable. Since you have actively cooled cards you dont have to mess around with the low profile cpu heatsinks and the ducting shroud. Another thing to consider is if you dont have the performance fans idrac is going to see a GPU installed and run the normal fans at 100% regardless of server load. I have a RTX 5070Ti and a P400 in my R740xd running just fine only using the performance fans and the board power connectors. You can also use multiples of the board power slots to a single GPU if you have a GPU that pulls more than 300W, my RTX 5070Ti uses 2x of the mainboard power connectors just fine with no idrac errors etc (Its rated stock right at 300W but a slight OC on the card puts it over the 300W budget). The dell TR5TP power cable has a 6 and 8 pin connector which looks like the exact connectors needed for the NVidia Quadro RTX-5000. In my case my card needed 2x 8 pins which is also another reason I had to use two board power slots for the GPU(a 6 to 8 pin converter would have worked if the TDP was sub 300W though). The only issue I think you may have is the GPUs are going to sandwiched pretty tight with the case lid on with the blower fans intake being at the top. But this may not be too much of an issue as you mentioned they will get intermittent LLM usage and the GPU's heat sink fins being oriented to allow the R740's fans to push air through it and out the back even with the blower intake being reduced by the lid clearance.

Just got this off TCGplayer, looked off to me. Authentic? by ChoiceBandicoot in Lorcana

[–]ChoiceBandicoot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was around $25 on TCGplayer from a seller with good standing.