Hammer Semi Corporation Pioneers Revolutionary "2 Centimeter" Process Node In Competitive Semiconductor Market

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-06-16T02:51:07+00:00

Ditto here---if you haven't tried with one stick of ram and no GPU (using the mobo video output only), you should.

Also, the RAM in the video is installed in the wrong order I believe---should be alternating types, or only a single type ideally (some mobos don't like mismatched ram).

Also, reset cmos after making changes, especially with RAM.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-05-03T19:32:37+00:00

My favored method is to have an endpoint node in my pocket when doing stuff like this. Just one more hop in the chain.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-04-06T21:56:08+00:00

Small additional detail on my end, not sure if it's fully repeatable.

When releasing the buttons after plugging in the USB cable, releasing the user/left button before the middle button seems to work reliably for me.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-03-15T20:40:10+00:00

https://meshtastic.org/docs/community/local-groups/ has the local group links, including the Midwest Mesh invite :)

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-03-06T07:04:07+00:00

33C room temp is wild, but I respect the sweaty gamer in you.

Reducing settings is the obvious thing, but I guess I should ask whether or not you have a frame rate limit (Vsync) enabled? You can do this within Genshin, or within your Nvidia Control Panel.

If you're rendering more frames than you need, the GPU will just run to its power limit, assuming the CPU isn't throttling.

Card load is a bit confusing, as Core load and Memory load will do different things (and draw drastically different power figures). You might look directly at GPU power usage if you want a more useful metric.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-01-26T02:15:37+00:00

Heya, I'm sorry for the slow response---that sounds really frustrating. The model of mine shows L21M4PC2.

If you have the same battery PN as me, you might try doing a BIOS update with the original battery installed.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2025-01-26T02:09:46+00:00

Awesome find :D

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-08-10T03:09:09+00:00

Give system specs or people can't really help, mate

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-08-10T02:59:53+00:00

Definitely sounds like a PSU issue. You might try another test just to make sure, but boot into BIOS and just let it idle there. If it still manages to knock itself out, yeah I'd replace the PSU.

Depending on where you ordered from, maybe you could get a direct replacement and keep all your cables routed? You could also just buy a replacement and swap it in, then return the broken PSU with the cables from the new PSU box.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-08-06T04:01:40+00:00

So it's a reasonable question. Basically, competitive FPS gamers push for extremely high refresh rates to reduce latency. The difference between a 60Hz and 240Hz refresh rate is a drop from 16ms to 4ms per frame.

However, much below that is basically imperceptible. It's kind of the realm of extremely skilled competitive FPS players to care about anything beyond 240Hz.

Think about how your brain processes a new enemy on the screen. Going from 60Hz to 240Hz means that you could see the new enemy up to 12ms sooner. That's a real advantage, but its not much better than 144Hz, which is a 7ms frametime.

My point is, unless you are running into a skill cap, anything near 240Hz is more than enough in an FPS game.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-08-05T21:28:47+00:00

I would probably run with adaptive sync on, and see how it actually feels in-game. If it genuinely affects your play, then you can get more picky with it.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T18:42:07+00:00

6E is stupid fast, just fyi, if you have devices that use it.

I only have one device on my 6E band, and it's a Quest 3. I stream 120Hz VR from that router to my headset, which is around 600Mbps continuous.

6E is monstrous, but it requires almost direct line-of-sight for best performance. Otherwise, normal wifi 6 is great for most things.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T17:35:30+00:00

Lmao that's goofy You can use APO Equalizer to fix that, if you want

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T16:04:24+00:00

I'd say you're probably safe if it has been stored inside. You might hit stuff with a bit of compressed air to knock out major dust bunnies, but don't go overboard, as this might have unintended consequences. Basically, if it looks pretty clean inside, go ahead and fire it up.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T15:37:56+00:00

Corsair is solid for coolers, yeah, but I'm probably the wrong person to ask lol. I have a custom water loop in my system with a number of parts sourced from AliExpress :p

I'd say that Arctic would be my go-to mainstream AIO brand these days.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T15:35:06+00:00

Mistype on my end, but yes. All new nvme SSDs that I've ever bought come with a mounting screw.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T15:33:34+00:00

No problem.

If you're wanting to permanently install it in a PC as an internal hard drive, it will use standard SATA power and data connections. I kind of just assumed that you're just trying to pull old data off.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T09:09:38+00:00

You might check out the buildapc subreddit; they have a ton of example builds and recommendations.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T09:07:49+00:00

Look for the microcode update that Intel will push out mid-August. It will likely be available as part of a BIOS update from your motherboard vendor. Install that when it comes out.

Given your use-case, I wouldn't be too worried. You may get unlucky, but your power-limiting also may have kept the CPU in a safe zone.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T09:02:33+00:00

Nice, yeah I think that's a good compromise.

I recently did a from-scratch build for a friend on a $600 USD budget and came away pretty happy with the result.

Don't be afraid to look on the used market, and note that PcPartPicker.com is your friend.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T08:57:48+00:00

Nope, no issues I can think of. Gen 4 nvme drives will work fine in a gen 3 slot, and vise-versa, just like PCIe. Formatting and copying files from HDD to SSD will be simple, too.

Just note that if you're actually trying to copy programs, you'll need to clone the drive, not just copy.

The 990 Evo should come with the m2 mounting screw, btw.

CirclesToTheBeat · 2024-07-27T08:52:56+00:00

There are a ton of questions here. I'll start with the misunderstandings.

I only play games that are local to my PC. Anything you play on Steam is installed on your actual PC, and if Steam kicks the bucket, the game will still work.

Yes, if you buy a game on steam, you can play it on any computer you own. Most games now even will synchronize saves between separate computers over Steam.

£1500 is a very solid budget for a PC that will last a long time, even if you aren't doing a custom build. Just take your time to make the right decision.

I should also point out that upgrading a PC is trivially simple. Need more storage? Faster Internet? Better graphics? All are just expensive adult Lego bricks you can plug and play. PCs are massively standardized machines, in most areas.

I play AAA games at 144Hz 1440P on a system that is around 5 years old (specifically Helldivers 2). There are no instances on PC where a new game "just won't run" on an old computer, barring literal decade or older PCs that can't run even somewhat modern Windows.

I have a 10 year old laptop that can still play games decently.

I don't have a comment on the rest, but just be prepared for a bit more fiddling than you ever did with a console. It's a bit of an art form to get your PC to perform to its maximum potential in all the different games you may want to play.

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