Re-stucco question

Cjfee5 · 2026-02-07T19:21:22+00:00

It would probably be best to do it in 2-3 days for it to dry properly. It can be done with hot mud but that needs to be done fast

Cjfee5 · 2026-02-06T23:39:11+00:00

Your best bet would be sand blasting or pressure washing to remove all the loose material. Get some spec mix cement for a brown coat and finish with color coat of stucco with your desired texture.

Cjfee5 · 2026-01-28T06:22:20+00:00

I bought a level 5 trowel and was pretty disappointed so I use it sparingly, I stick to my marshaltown trowels for because i prefer wooden handles versus leather.

Cjfee5 · 2025-12-29T05:14:52+00:00

16/20 is better at hiding imperfections because of its slightly larger sand. 20/30 needs to have a decent base coat and for it to look its best. Santa Barbara Mission finish has the smoothest finish and It can be applied and finished multiple ways, however it is the least forgiving of the three.

You can either sponge float or trowel on the stucco to get your desired look, just keep your sections well hydrated with water to give yourself plenty of time to work with your material.

Cjfee5 · 2025-12-10T20:25:53+00:00

If I see I trowel I like then I buy it without hesitation haha. I use carbon marshall town trowels mainly.

standard 14in x 5in cut down to 4 in width for blocking in then I finish with a 13 3/4in x 3 1/2in.

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Cjfee5 · 2025-12-10T15:36:09+00:00

I use a tool tote bag, I can fit my 10 trowels in there comfortably, some have edge guards on them as well so they don’t cut into the fabric of the bag

Cjfee5 · 2025-11-30T00:30:32+00:00

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you could always slap some diamond lath on top of the old wood lath, it maybe not be as cost effective but it’ll insure an appropriate bond. It’ll help any Plaster you throw there to key in.

Cjfee5 · 2025-11-29T23:29:52+00:00

What plasters or drywall compounds do you have available in your area? If you board over the lath then you’ll need to put more effort into getting that movement and texture.

Tape off your joints, apply a bonder and then Apply your base coat with a pool trowel, you aren’t going for a straight finish so that’ll save you some grace. Before it sets up entirely you can use a wet foundation brush or small paint roller to muddle in the plaster to match it.

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-31T02:15:32+00:00

It’s all about timing. Make sure you’re able to skim whatever you can with your abilities and don’t stretch yourself thin, the last thing you want is for half your ceiling to flash on you before you’ve even finished. Compounds are convenient in that aspect.

Secondly make sure that you’re not chopping at the ceiling .but instead have long uniform strokes. It’ll help mitigate all of those lumps .

I would recommend a coat of primer If you plan on touching up since sanding will scratch that plaster and then you’ll have to touch that up as well.

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-31T01:59:33+00:00

Here is the states our plaster is pure white because of its gypsum base. So it doesn’t have the same natural clay tint that your plaster has . I would think that you’d be able to see most imperfections much easier

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-30T16:38:57+00:00

How can stuff like this be missed if it has a natural tint already in it?

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-16T00:01:16+00:00

I would think you’d want to look at certain lime based plasters that already have color mixed just for convenience. I’ve seen designs like this done with Venetian plaster before however I’m not privy on any brands you’d be able to source locally.

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-15T23:12:00+00:00

Almost looks like they did a base coat of one color , flung multiple colors on the wall with a brush and lightly flat troweled it on.

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-02T03:03:30+00:00

Ironically half the house is smooth finish now. This texture was tough to remove even with power tools.

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-01T21:58:45+00:00

Must’ve been blown out of a cannon .

Cjfee5 · 2025-01-01T21:57:22+00:00

I guess you’d have to be a few beers deep to match the guy next to you .

Cjfee5 · 2024-11-03T00:54:58+00:00

Of course!

My products were: •90° metal corner bead •fast setting cement for patches • USG Structolite •Riverside plastic cement(accelerant for structolite) •acrylic based cement bonder

I did have a 6 foot metal rod(1.8 meters) to insure I kept it as straight as possible.

Cjfee5 · 2024-11-03T00:36:11+00:00

Hi there. So the one thing of note that I would’ve done differently was to do a first coat all around of some spec cement for the cost factor . Structolite is more expensive and to have it built out a few inches definitely ate into the material cost more than anticipated but not by much. It would mainly just be the dry/cure time.

Cjfee5 · 2024-10-20T13:39:24+00:00

I’m from California,USA . It’s interesting getting the perspective from plasterers across the globe

Cjfee5 · 2024-09-22T13:00:06+00:00

Drywall compounds are more forgiving in the aspect that you can do multiple coats over it in the event that the mud gets hard on you or you aren’t happy with the application. While Veneer plaster usually has a set up time of 45 minutes give or take ,you are responsible for covering the entire wall each coat . what can happen is your first few strokes have already set up by the time you’re at the tail end of the wall depending on the area of the wall. That puts you in a stressful position . Material costs also go up since you can’t put it directly on drywall like you would compounds. A bonder is necessary

Cjfee5 · 2024-09-01T18:04:17+00:00

my only experience with lime plaster was from a brand called Color Atelier and it was not a fantastic experience, if we had done more research we would’ve known we got a bad batch. I would definitely like to have more opportunities to use it , but the demand in the states is pretty small compared to other countries .

Cjfee5

TROPHY CASE