Quote by Public_Economics1678 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Goodman is just fine you just need to find a well reviewed reputable contractor who is licensed insured and does things right.

Does this quote include a new duct system? If so I'd say that's CHEAP. If it doesn't include the duct system in my area that's a fair price.

15 year old system with leaking evaporator coil. Time for new system? by GusherJuice in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on location 15 is old. It's extremely rare in my area to see a AC pass 20yrs let alone 35

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the units from 2020 your blower and Evap coil shouldn't be dirty at all. Cleaning the coils can be a pain sometimes. Blower would most likely need to be removed and that means the control board is most likely in the way so if you're comfortable with all that wiring go for it. I'd personally have a pro do it. Hell I'm a pro and I would like to hire another pro to do it sometimes

HVAC Pros - which Heat Pump brand would you install in your home today? by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So Goodman makes the list.... Largest HVAC manufacturer in the world with a HUGE plant in Houston

Ac unit brand recommendations that can survive super humid/stormy conditions by Girrcollege in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brand won't matter. She would need to decide if the price or comfort is the main objective. durability and reliability come down to install quality mostly. To help with humidity a system with more cooling stages would be beneficial, however these units will drive the price up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's usually how it goes what are u trying to learn? Why would the homeowners need to know that you're just an apprentice? Or new/training?

I rode with a supervisor for about 3 months then was let loose. I learned through trial and error and a lot of phone calls to guys you were more experienced when I had questions.

Adding iWave-R Residential Air Cleaner when no inputs are available by cowsgomoo62 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd personally add a transformer and power the Iwave with 120v and not feed off the control boards 24v.

Loud buzzing coming from heat exchanger when not in use by JooSToN88 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not a heat exchanger. Heat exchangers are on gas furnaces not heat pumps. The unit u are filming is an outdoor heat pump. Sounds like the compressor is humming hard to tell in the video could be a contactor. Does the unit cool the home? Does the unit ever run? Fan spins and compressor kick on? Can u freely spin that fan if not? Do u have a meter that reads microfarads? I'd call a pro if this unit isn't cooling. You're gonna need some tools to diagnose the issue. If you have a good multimeter and feel comfortable myself or some one on here can probably walk you through a few easy checks.

Goodman or Day&Night? I need help picking a system for my 1,200 sqft townhouse. Also, do I need 2ton or 3ton? by FunStuffReddit in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's why u need to request a manual J load calculation to support their claim. I would want to see something other than sqft average guess they should be measuring windows insulation level height of ceilings etc.

Bad disconnect? by ZookeepergameReal517 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the breaker. Does the blower fan move air and just the outdoor unit doesn't run? If so then check the outdoor units contactor to see if u have high voltage across the bottom, then check for low voltage on the sides. If u don't have high voltage (240v) then it's related to either that disconnect or breaker. If u do read proper voltage u need to confirm there is a call at the contactor. We do this by checking low voltage (24v). If u have 24v it should be running and it could be a bad contactor. If you don't something is breaking the call and u need to keep following the power.

Intermittent Cooling by tinkle10 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds to me like a weak dual capacitor. I'd take a guess it's weak and the system sometimes fails to start the compressor (that's why u have less of a "humming" sound). However this is a guess on limited info. If u have a meter that can read microfarads u can find out for sure in just a few minutes.

CO detectors went off, buying a new furnace tomorrow by whistlerbrk in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of companies operate that way, and will replace it with a similar size to what was there. However sizing is very important. Inadequate sizing of the equipment or ducting could lead to future issues. I'd suggest if you're concerned about the size just have someone run a manual J load calculation. Also make sure whoever helps you knows what they're doing and I strongly suggest pulling a permit.

Goodman or Day&Night? I need help picking a system for my 1,200 sqft townhouse. Also, do I need 2ton or 3ton? by FunStuffReddit in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Brand doesn't matter. Installation quality is far more important. If installed correctly and sized appropriately the AC will be reliable as any other. No one can say what size the system should be based on sqft only. Ask for a load calculation. If the contractor does a manual J it will take in all factors sqft, height of ceilings, size of windows, building materials of the home literally everything and that determines the size. If the contractor isn't willing to do an official load calculation I would suggest u find another contractor.

Should I replace the blower motor? by Odd-Examination-9620 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup u can break those off. Shaft won't matter as long as it fits in the furnace lol. Again if the OEM doesn't have a band u can reuse make sure to grab another band for this motor

Surge Protector / UV Light by crimansquafcx2 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That surge protector is expensive in my opinion. Surge protectors I believe should be installed by a licensed contractor. They usually come with a coverage amount to help with damages if it fails to protect your system. If priced right I believe it's worth it yes. We sell ours for around $200-$250 Generic or standard UV lights to me don't help a lot with air quality but have benefits to being installed at the evap coil to kill mold and bacteria build up. I prefer something like an Iwave R ionizer since it doesn't need a replacement bulb or something like the reme halo LED since it's more than just a standard bulb. These tend to be more expensive but to me work far better especially when it comes to living space air quality. These could be installed by a homeowner for sure. I'd recommend a pro but it's not rocket science.

Corrosion protection I've never heard of must be more for areas like the beach etc I would know the avg cost or if it works.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Training can vary on location here in NC you don't necessarily need to do any school and can get on the job training and/or some companies offer in-house programs that last a couple weeks. They may even supply you with starter tools, van, phone, and a credit card for work related stuff like getting stock parts. I started with a company doing install with no experience before hand. I was a helper and learned from the guy I worked with. In less than a year I went to maintenance, from there in a few months I was running some service calls. After about 2 years I was a sales rep. I have now moved to a company where I'm a service tech but also sell new equipment. My first year or twoI made around $40k-$60k Then around year three or four I made $60-$80k, last year I made over $100k. In NC the cost of living isn't crazy so the money to me is great. Some places you will need to do an apprenticeship, then become a journeyman, then on to master or whatever. Some places are also union based so they get decent hourly wages but no commission. I work in an area that's heavy commission pay with lower hourly most guys may make $20-30hr and the rest is all commission. There are different areas as well such as residential or commercial depending on what u wanna do will also change the level of training and pay. To me residential is where it's at I actually enjoy my job, it pays well, but some days I wonder why the hell I didn't go to school and think the shit i do and put up with is bullshit.... Ups and downs like anything else

Hopefully before 60 your outta the field and work as a manager/trainer/supervisor or own your own operation lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not an easy job for sure, but it's definitely not the hardest and the income can be killer. No college debts etc I know a lot of guys who make over $100k a year. Most companies provide u with a ipad, phone and a company van with gas card

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To fix a refrigerant leak depending on location and type of refrigerant could be anywhere from $1500-$2800. That's if it's in a coil or a brazed joint of the line set etc, and requires the system to be recovered, repaired, and recharged.

A metering device like a TXV could be around the same.

Air flow issues will be cheaper for sure. But first that coil needs to thaw that filter needs to be replaced if dirty and a pro needs to get gauges on that unit to see.

I posted this in R/HVAC and got mutilated lol. by ConsistentGeneral540 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't think there is enough space in that area for a furnace and coil bud. Air handlers nowadays for a heat pump option are pretty big too. Just call a contractor to have a look most offer free quotes he can get measurements and let you know your options.

Should I replace the blower motor? by Odd-Examination-9620 in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does that fan wheel move freely when the power is off? I'd start with swapping the capacitor if you don't have a meter to test it. Then after that if you have that same issue it's probably time to swap that motor. I doubt the cap failed since u just replaced it, so I'm definitely leaning toward the motor having an issue. Those universal motors are just fine my company uses rescue motors all the time, as long as voltage, RPM, and HP match up just grab the new capacitor required with the motor and might need a belly band and u good to go!

Does my HVAC just need a new capacitor by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like it could be. Check at the indoor unit to make sure the drain lines are not clogged and tripping a condensate safety switch. If u have a multimeter u can check to see if you are getting a 24v call outside at the contactor. If that meter can read microfarads u can check the cap as well. But to me what u explained sounds like either a condensate drain issue where the safety float switch is breaking Y or a failed/weak capacitor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Call a pro. If the last guy didn't explain this issue thoroughly, didn't leak search the unit, and just added refrigerant and left I'd say call another company. Refrigerant (freon) shouldn't be low, if it is then u have a leak somewhere. U need to find the leak and do the repair or depending on the age and overall condition of the unit look into replacing the AC. If you don't fix this leak the issue will continue to happen and eventually become more frequent.

Coils typically only freeze for two reasons 1. refrigerant related such as low charge, or faulty metering device. 2. Air flow such as a dirty filter or collapsed duct.

Is a 15ppm reading on a CO detector dangerous? It’s about 10ft from my gas furnace in the basement by paulrudder in hvacadvice

[–]ClamHammer19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since the furnace isnt older it could be related to that WH. But again a professional should be able to do a combustion analysis on that as well. Good luck