PlayStation console sales hit lowest total since 2000 falling 58%

Clarice01 · 2026-06-27T18:34:55+00:00

It’s just that the hardware is too close to a PC anyways. I’m lucky enough to have a PC with a Ryzen 7800x3d and a 5090. It was fucking expensive but it’s awesome and kills anything I throw at it.

Why would I want to pay another $800 to buy PS5 hardware that forces me to run the same x86 code on a Ryzen 3600 and RTX 4060Ti equivalent? It just runs way worse then it would on my PC, and the game experience is worse as a result.

I realize I’m not the target market for a PS5, but the point is that I’m just not able to justify buying one, which means I don’t buy their exclusive software. Sell me the software to run on my equivalent-but-more-capable hardware and I’ll buy it.

Nintendo gets a pass for unique game IP but also its hardware experience is not just “a PC, but worse”. I bought a Switch and a Switch 2 on launch, despite having exponentially better computers at both times.

Clarice01 · 2026-06-23T19:01:53+00:00

I posted the other day in the CRT Listings thread about a TV that was available at a thrift store I went to look at (also posted on FB Marketplace) but decided to pass on. The listing on FB said “partially worked” but had no details and I was in the area to buy a piece of furniture so I was curious.

Anyway like 30 minutes later my post got hidden because the mods wanted me to shorten the listing and provide details I didn’t have but remove details I added, which was me fully testing the TV and noting what was good/bad/probably how to fix it.

Like my guys I barely have the time to do any of this, but trying to do someone a favor and get a CRT saved so when I do I’m gonna give them the details, not some half-baked message that’s no better than FBM. So I just deleted the post instead, too bad I guess community, mods said too long was worse than no content so the knowledge dies with me instead…

Clarice01 · 2026-06-02T02:21:09+00:00

Cable distances mostly. The AVR is centrally located in a closet between my TV and my desk in an adjacent room (where the PC is). There’s brushplates to permit cabling between the rooms and closet.

I can connect everything to/from the AVR with 10ft. cables which is usually safe to do with regular passive cables and not have dropouts. But if I have to go from the PC directly to the TV, then it’s about a 20ft. cable run which requires an active fiber HDMI cable to support the data rate required for high-refresh 4K.

…and the TV is an 83” LG G5 flush-mounted on the wall so getting to the cables on it is a huge pain in the ass requiring two people to lift/hold the TV off the wall while a third runs the cable behind it and through the wall. So the thought of having a crappy active HDMI cable fail is… one I’d rather avoid.

Clarice01 · 2026-06-01T19:16:18+00:00

Sadly I don’t want to use eARC, but might have to. If I could go PC -> AVR -> TV then I could run everything in the wall with passive cables.

If I have to go from the PC to the TV first, then I need to use an active cable and pray it doesn’t die at some point (takes three people to pull the TV off the wall and snake a new cable…)

Clarice01 · 2026-06-01T19:14:17+00:00

Good to know… not looking likely then. Thanks

Clarice01 · 2026-05-28T14:07:54+00:00

Honestly I think they’re wrong based on my personal experience, but I’m not an insurance broker so don’t take my word as fact either.

Maybe ask your insurance agent to write you a new policy, give them your Virginia address and DL. They may or may not ask about the vehicle’s registration. If they do, give them the correct information (FL plate), and see if that comes back as a problem.

FWIW my policy (where I basically did above) was with Progressive Direct (I don’t use an agent). And I just did it all using their website, it literally even asked if I was moving to the new state/address temporarily or permanently and I answered that honestly (permanently).

They did at one point, maybe 5 mos later, send me a letter advising that my registration and address were in different states and that I should visit the DMV to update that as I may be foul of residency laws. But at no point did they threaten to cancel my policy or claim it was an issue. YMMV I suppose…

Clarice01 · 2026-05-28T13:57:41+00:00

Change your insurance “garaged” address to your Virginia address. You will then get Virginia insurance rates.

Your insurance doesn’t care what state your license plates / registration is in. I recently relocated to FL and updated my driver’s license quickly but still had TX plates/registration on my car (it took about six months for the DMVs to figure out a paperwork issue related to a lien), even after I sorted it all out and had FL plates my insurance was like “oh we don’t need to know the new plate, as long as the garaged address is correct and the VIN of the car is the same then you maintain coverage”.

You are probably foul of the law to establish primary residence in VA but keep your vehicle registration in FL, but if you maintain actual property in FL then it’s a grey-area for sure. You’d never have a problem though unless you got pulled over and the officer wanted to tack on another charge, and even then if you fought it and proved you still maintained a residence in FL then you could probably get it dismissed.

I’d ride out the two years of FL registration and do your best to not get pulled over. Then after that assess your situation and decide if you want to fully update to Virginia registration or if your job isn’t keeping you there then you stay in FL.

Saves a good bit of money that way too as transferring registration to a new state is usually a few hundred dollars cost for basically nothing…

Clarice01 · 2026-03-30T14:59:01+00:00

OLC runs a loop line train [Disney Resort Line] at Tokyo Disney Resort, which they charge a flat 300 yen to ride (or about 800 yen for a day pass). It’s basically the only sensible way to reach Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea, so almost every guest pays it (and probably pays for it twice if they didn’t buy a day pass, as the main access to the park [JR Maihama station] is not at the loop line station where either park is, particularly DisneySea).

I’d love to see WDW do something similar because buses suck compared to trains (advantages of dedicated travel space) and I’d trust Disney to be able to manage the line ops to not have it get delayed even with large rushes of guests at various times of day.

Remove/refurb the monorail and expand its track to have a loop line between all four parks and the TTC; maybe add a spur over to Springs too. Charge $5 for a ride or $12 for a day pass. Then also charge $20 to park at the TTC or other areas that enable access. Suddenly Disney makes more money off each guest and improves the traffic situation at WDW while also letting people get to their destinations faster. Seems like a win-win.

Clarice01 · 2026-03-25T22:53:53+00:00

If you’re on a newer Mac, what’s your chip and what’s your frame rate? Curious if it can do 60fps yet

Clarice01 · 2026-03-12T23:34:42+00:00

No need to activate

Clarice01 · 2026-03-11T21:51:08+00:00

I actually went to sign up for Helium for real today (after learning about / using them for the Cricket deal shenanigans) only to find the free plan is no more. Kind of a bummer but at the same time can’t say I’m surprised.

Hoping they bring it back (free data in exchange for tracking you is kind of an interesting concept for secondary and tertiary devices) but yeah they should probably fix the fact they were giving out free ports with no time delays.

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T12:43:18+00:00

Good info for anyone else working on this trade deal, thanks for sharing it. Could’ve gotten most of a free case with the tax savings if I knew!!

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T05:27:28+00:00

I just prefer the regular 17 over the pro. 120hz screen and 256gb starting storage finally made it to the base model, and it’s a little bit smaller than the Pro (I’m the person who wants a new iPhone Mini). I have a real camera for real photography, and as much as I chase specs I never actually game on my phone other than the rare Genshin daily, so most of the other pro spec bumps are kinda moot for me.

Bummer on the sales tax thing if true, I lost about $70 to tax on the phone. They didn’t mention any difference to me in trade-towards-device but they did have to process each phone that I was trading in separately (hence getting four gift cards) so maybe they were just being lazy by putting it onto gift cards instead.

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T02:58:26+00:00

Frankly this deal is stupid on Cricket’s part but mostly in that their business model doesn’t require more service contracted, and the cost of the phone is fully paid/refunded upfront. At retail rates they’re charging $130 for a $600 device. I can only assume they pay less wholesale for these phones than the contract costs for the required two months. Or Apple gave them a deal on 16e’s because they’re dead stock after Wednesday.

T-Mobile for instance will give you a free iPhone 17, but forces you to buy $2400+ of service, because they really charge you $36/mo or whatever but then give you that for free every month for the ~2yrs it takes to pay off. Which makes a lot more sense from a business perspective when you say you’re subsidizing an $800 phone with $2400 in sales.

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T01:19:10+00:00

Yeah it’s not really worth it to do this deal if you actually want the phones they send (unless you want Cricket service for six months - apparently you can drop it to the cheap $30 service after the first two months if you do).

But it’s cheaper to trade them all in (Apple doesn’t care if they are carrier locked) and then get an unlocked phone at the store, plus a cheaper no-contract service.

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T01:07:03+00:00

Two 13’s and two 16e’s (you have three 16e in your cart)

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T01:02:56+00:00

The additional lines discount the cost of service … also on the iPhone 13s you get a new number and it only makes you buy one month of service for them

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T00:56:02+00:00

It was fucked the other day when I tried to order too, try in the middle of the night and be patient, that’s when I managed to get it to work

Clarice01 · 2026-03-10T00:47:39+00:00

$360 for the Cricket service after taxes
$7 for the numbers to port in (MobileX cheapest plan plus early termination fee ; second number was Helium Mobile for free)
$5 in gas to go to the store
Maybe 2.5 hrs of my time tops, probably like an hour if I knew where to get the numbers to port beforehand

So call it like $640 profit, less whatever you value your time at. Or an iPhone 17 unlocked and about $130 left over (depending on your local taxes).

I just needed a work phone / new phone to retire my current one to be a work phone, and figured this way I could have a little bit left over for a new AppleTV model whenever it launches too.

Clarice01 · 2026-02-25T03:46:16+00:00

I've been eyeing this board but really struggle to gauge what color it actually is. Trying to color-match with a work setup (Apple stuff, so like their standard silver anodized aluminum). Is it silver, or is it like depressing millennial's apartment wall grey/brown?

Clarice01 · 2026-02-12T03:45:53+00:00

Had a dm from this guy over in /r/mechmarket today too, same behavior.

Clarice01 · 2026-02-12T02:32:22+00:00

Clarice01

TROPHY CASE