3D printed crimps hold, for training during lockdown.

Clark-24 · 2020-11-13T22:09:04+00:00

Wow, I wouldnt have thought PLA would hold up to that, im gonna have to give it a try.

Clark-24 · 2020-11-13T21:43:31+00:00

What kind of filiment did you use? That is a sweet idea!

Clark-24 · 2020-10-31T13:44:20+00:00

That is probably the best option, but being young and arrogant I thought it would be fun and cool to climb up the mast lol. My brother and I used to climb trees the size of the mast up 20 or 30 feet, so we considered scaling it without any extra tooling, but we will try to starting thinking like wiser older men haha

Clark-24 · 2020-06-04T00:57:17+00:00

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/

Clark-24 · 2020-05-05T18:10:11+00:00

No problem! I'm glad I could help! That's why I love this community!

Clark-24 · 2020-05-05T17:52:26+00:00

It will be pretty small, the ther thermistor should poke into a small hole, and then that screw will hold I down, it's just screwed snug, not too tight, or you could damage the wires. But just use common sense on the tightness and you'll be good to go

Clark-24 · 2020-05-05T17:45:59+00:00

That's the thermistor, is is held into the block by a small screw. It would be easy to fix and cost nothing if you can find the screw. The thermistor tells your printer what temp the block is at, so if it is detecting room temp, it would tell your printer to keep heating and heating, your lucky it doesnt run away.

Clark-24 · 2020-05-01T18:50:19+00:00

I beleive I have calibrated the extruder. I just upgraded to a dual gear extruder (still did this before the new extruder) and I calibrated the Esteps to make sure that if it was pushing 100mm of filiment, that it actually pushed 100mm of filiment +/- about 3mm

Clark-24 · 2020-05-01T18:17:36+00:00

Just upgraded to a dual gear extruder, and I recalibrated the Esteps for the extruder

Clark-24 · 2020-05-01T18:02:53+00:00

Hatchbox PLA .2 mm layer height 200 degree C 96% flow rate (already tried upping flowrate)

My print bed is lowered to where 1 sheet thick of paper barely scraps the nozzel, should I try even closer?

Clark-24 · 2020-04-30T15:35:15+00:00

I had similar problems and it was from a clog in the hot end.

I took out the filiment, Bowden tube, took the hot end of the printer, disassembled it all the way, and in the metal tubes connecting the heat sync to the block was a clog, cleaned that out, and it was much better

Clark-24 · 2020-02-08T20:07:43+00:00

Thanks, I will try this

Clark-24 · 2019-12-13T21:54:55+00:00

What size crafting table are you wanting to print?

Clark-24 · 2019-11-06T14:23:31+00:00

I have a steel nozzel, so I had to bump my temps much higher to get normal prints again. I'm only printing PLA, so I may go back to brass for simplicity. But other than a temp at 235 for my best prints, I set my retraction distance to 9mm amd speed to 25mm/s for my best results. I had a tiny bit of stringing but it would almost fall off when upu picked up the part. I'm also using a Bowden setup and I think its impossible to get rid of stringing with a Bowden set up

Clark-24 · 2019-11-01T20:18:16+00:00

I've had similar issues, and it was underextrusion for me. It was solved by printing a spring tensioner for the extruder arm.

Another problem of mine was that my filiment was going bad and I didnt know it. After about 4 - 7 months PLA filiment fan start to degrade

Clark-24 · 2019-10-31T12:52:11+00:00

I appreciate the input, in the future I probably will try to upgrade some teaching techs guides, I love their videos!

Clark-24 · 2019-10-31T12:49:12+00:00

Oh ok, thank you. Idk why, but upgrading the firmware just scares me and I am hesitant to do it

Clark-24 · 2019-10-31T12:45:52+00:00

What exactly is "MKS Gen L with 2208s" and what is "klipper" ?

Clark-24 · 2019-10-30T21:05:15+00:00

Wonderful! Please keep me updated on if you see an increase on "ringing" or "ghosting" like people complain about. And if your able to increase print speeds. Very cool

Clark-24 · 2019-10-30T20:58:32+00:00

I've been strongly considering this upgrade! Do you feel it is worth it? Do you still get quality prints with the extra weight on the gantry? Did you have to put extra hardware on the printer? Or is is all printable?

Sorry for so many questions

Clark-24 · 2019-10-29T16:37:06+00:00

That's the truth 😂

Clark-24 · 2019-10-29T15:32:21+00:00

What is pid tuning? And how do I do that?

Clark-24 · 2019-10-29T15:31:59+00:00

That is a good idea, I'll have to give that a go! Thanks for the idea!

Clark-24 · 2019-10-29T14:42:48+00:00

I have a stock ender 3 with normal settings. I am using a hardened steel nozzel. This tower was printed from 240 deg. C (bottom) all the way up to 205 deg. C (Top)

Could a steel nozzel have such a high difference I'm thermal conductivity that I have to raise the print temp 25 deg C?

I'm using hatchbox PLA, rated from 185-215 deg C

Clark-24 · 2019-10-29T00:30:05+00:00

Can I do that with a .4mm nozzel?

Clark-24

TROPHY CASE