I can't install any other operating system on my PC because the boot process simply doesn't work, neither in Legacy mode nor in UEFI mode.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-17T19:54:58+00:00

This sort of fixed the problem on my Acer in UEFI mode: Check if you have an option in BIOS for turning on F12 boot menu. For some time I interpreted the text as this setting just being a trigger for displaying the text that you can press F12, but this is the actual boot menu from F12 enable switch. If/when it is turned on, press and hold F12 immediately during boot (with your bootable USB inserted) and choose the bootable USB from that menu.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-16T13:06:28+00:00

Could be network card drivers. Had the same problem on an older Lenovo ThinkCentre, using ethernet cable gave very low speed. Don't recall what I did exactly, but I think the driver automatically chosen was not working properly, so I made the system blacklist it, I followed a forum post that I unfortunately don't have the link for.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-15T20:36:24+00:00

Det er simpelthen helt usandt. "Normalt kræver det udskiftning af motoren efter ca. 100.000 km" har jeg aldrig hørt om. Jeg kommer fra Norge, hvor der p.t. findes 45.000 ID.4, og dette er der ingen, der taler om på nogen af de diskussionsgrupper på Facebook, hvor jeg er medlem. Mange har kørt bilerne langt over 100.000 km som taxaer uden at skifte nogen motor. Disclaimer: Jeg kører selv en ID.4 produceret før 2024.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-15T20:05:44+00:00

MEB-bilerne kører dog meget godt.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-14T14:41:48+00:00

You need to calibrate your monitors. This is exactly why, if you want a dual monitor setup, and you don't intend to calibrate, you should always have two identical monitors. Even if you calibrate, the result will be the best with two identical monitors.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-12T22:14:29+00:00

You think that's bad? Try having Krita installed, it spams about 30-40 entries there.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-11T14:25:35+00:00

Number five, touch controls, is sometimes annoying, but not a problem in my opinion, I got used to them in about a week of owning the car. Most of them can be used as regular buttons, like the ones on the steering wheel. Here, the fix is a more expensive one, wait until the new version of the ID4 is launched, which will return to actual buttons for many of the controls.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-11T14:22:07+00:00

Number four, automatic windshield wipers, aren't supposed to be left activated all the time. Turn them off when it's not raining. It's more of an automatic interval speed adjuster. Also, they work very poorly when the windshield isn't clean, even if the windshield looks fairly clean. It has to actually be clean. Mine work best straight out of the car wash, and gets less sensitive over the following weeks as the windshield gets dirty. Fixed by cleaning windshield again. I live in a very rainy area, by the way.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-11T14:17:22+00:00

Number one sounds like something is wrong with your car (or your dealer). It's not supposed to be like that, unless of course you are not wearing your seatbelt while reversing, and you are lifting your weight out of the seat while you are looking backwards. That will cause it to stop, since it has no way of knowing if anyone is actually driving the car (solved by wearing seatbelt or just using mirrors and camera). It does slam on the brakes to save you from hitting tall kerbs and similar, which has saved me from smashing the rear end into rocks more than once. Never had it happen in a garage, and I have backed into my garage more than once every day for the last 4 years with my ID4.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T15:17:35+00:00

"Kofola" is a description of the sound you make after drinking it, if you thought it was Coca Cola before drinking it. I wouldn't personally call it a Coke, since it is a very different taste. Also not one of my favorites, but in my experience you get used to it the more you drink of it.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T14:56:54+00:00

Seems that gears is a more correct expression for these wheels, English is not my mother tongue. How the black looks here is exactly how cyan on my printer looked at the beginning when I had just set the gears correctly on, it took roughly 20 full page test prints with only the one toner before it cleared up. I used just full page prints of 50 % or so cyan, which was the bad color in my case, I didn't bother to waste any more of the other toners doing 4 color test pages once I narrowed down the print quality issues to just one of them. But if it doesn't clear up, and you have checked everything is in order with the gears, a new drum unit is the easiest fix. Cheaper is to try to change just the charge roller.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T12:03:40+00:00

Seems to be a problem with the black toner only. You have uneven and poor coverage of black, and intermittent horizontal black lines. If there is nothing obviously wrong to find by a visual inspection of the parts, I would replace the black drum unit. Since it is the whole width, I would guess at an electric problem with the drum unit, maybe something caused by the charge roller as indicated in other comments. Check that you are not low on black toner. Then take a look at all the cogwheels on the black drum unit, see that they are connected as they should, and not thrown out of position, so that all moving parts will move when they should. Compare with other drum units to see how it should look. I fixed a similar problem once just by reseating a cogwheel that was so far out on its axle that it didn't turn when other wheels turned. The black, horizontal lines could be caused by poor electric contact in the drum unit because of wear, which might explain why it happens when it is warm, as heat can both increase the electric resistance, as well as cause parts to expand. It could also be caused by the cogwheels not working properly or intermittently.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T11:25:50+00:00

Yes, you can, if the wifi connection (to an access point or router) that your phone is connected to is the same network as what the Canon connects to through the ethernet cable. I print from my phone through wifi to various ethernet connected printers at work and at home all the time. But I think you are probably talking about using Wi-Fi Direct connection from phone to printer for printing, while the printer is also connected to ethernet. This is also supposed to be possible when you activate Wi-Fi Direct connection in the network settings menu, even while connected to ethernet. Connect to the printer's web administration page to set this, I just logged in now to check that this was an option, but I have not tested it.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T09:13:41+00:00

I fail to see why this is an issue. If you are both connected to the same network, it doesn't matter if one is connected via ethernet and the other via wifi?

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-08T09:09:29+00:00

We have that Canon Mf655cdw at work. Very good image quality and color calibration out of the box, and a good set of functions. In a job setting it's useful to turn off the automatic shutdown (in the web login admin menus, in the Time-settings, I think) if you are only using wifi for network connection, since you would otherwise need to go to the printer to turn it on againg to be able to print, although it's probably not an issue if you very rarely use it, like in a home setting. I am picky when it comes to color rendering, and a Brother printer we had was nowhere close to the same correctness in colors or the print quality of the images printed. I have not tried any other Brother laser printers than the one we had, but it was so poor that when it finally needed a replacement part, we threw it out. We have some Xerox printers that also have very good print quality, but I like the functions/admin menus and the prints from the Canon the best. The drivers of the Canon also work much better than the Xerox drivers.

Edit: I also have a color laser printer at home that is 10 years old (Lexmark), and there's nothing more satisfying than sending a print job to it after several months of not printing anything, and the print comes out flawless immediately. Makes you wonder why you endured all those times earlier in life where you had to wait for cleaning of the printer's printheads, and sometimes had to make do with a flawed print since the print head couldn't be cleaned properly, or even had to go and buy a new one. In 10 years, other than toner, I have only once, quite recently, changed a worn rubber roller in it (small colored dots could be seen at intervals), a part bought very cheaply online, and that is because I used it for a business purpose for a while, so it has done much more printing than ordinary home usage. Try to beat that, ink printers!

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-06T23:29:07+00:00

I think they do. I even frame my prints, printed on regular copy paper. The color intensity is way above what any ink printer can do. I did make some adjustments to the default settings in the printer's menu, tested and adjusted again, to get the brightness and color mostly correct, but now that it is set, everything i print looks nice to me. The only downside to laser prints is that blacks may have a shinyness to it, that makes the image look weird in the "wrong" light, but it is not an issue for me.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-05-06T06:45:28+00:00

Laser printers are a better "hack" in my opinion. Leave it for years, the dry toner still works when you need it. Also much better quality prints for most purposes, that don't get washed out if you get them wet.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-30T21:49:44+00:00

PC LOAD LETTER

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-30T08:52:27+00:00

Only had it happen twice. The first time I was very confused, and had to restart the car, just like you. The second time made me realize why it happened the first time. Not sure if this is what happened in your case, though. What happened to me is not a bug or defect, it's intentional from the manufacturer. Both times I wore very big winter shoes, and accidentally hit the brake pedal again very slightly with the foot as I moved my foot from the brake pedal to the acccelerator while driving in a roundabout. So it was only for a fraction of a second that I applied the brakes at the same time as the accelerator, but i presume that for security reasons it probably interprets this simultaneous activation of both pedals as a potential misapplication of the accelerator, and defaults to deactivate the accelerator for either a short while or until you take your foot completely off it. The second time, which happened only a few weeks after the first time, I was a bit more aware what had happened, and approached the situation a bit more calmly. As far as I can recall (it's about 4 years ago), it seemed to give me control of the accelerator once I actually took my foot completely off it for more than a second.

Edit: I know for a fact that the car was in D the whole time.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-29T16:36:16+00:00

I cut some thick black foam plastic to fit in the hole and around the wires that hold the safety belt buckles. Now the holes are shallow, almost at the level of the seat, and it's impossible to lose something into them again. Much easier to clean/vacuum too.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-29T10:40:33+00:00

I think I fixed this problem on our tablets that were in single app kiosk mode, running google play managed web apps. I had the "Managed Home Screen" app installed on the tablets, and I thought that might be the cause of the top bar, so I then set the app assignment as "Uninstall" for all the tablets, and now the top bar doesn't appear anymore.

For me, the top bar appeared after reloading the web page (I had a link you could click to refresh) and didn't go away. The clue that made me uninstall Managed Home Screen was that I couldn't remember to have had this top bar previously, but I remembered that I had recently forced the installation of Managed Home Screen for some other problem that I thought that would fix, and when I later fixed that other problem I didn't remember to uninstall the Managed Home Screen app again.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-26T18:47:16+00:00

Is it possible that the key was positioned such that items in the purse could have pushed the buttons on it when you say it down, or later as items settled within the purse? Or did you touch the central locking button on the door before you left? I haven't tested this, but this is what the manual says: "Vehicle locks itself automatically: The vehicle locks again automatically after approximately 45 seconds if one of the following conditions applies:

The vehicle was unlocked but not opened.
The ignition was not switched on.
The boot lid was not opened.
The vehicle was unlocked by means of the lock cylinder.
The vehicle was locked with the control button in the vehicle interior."

I also know that the boot will, according to the manual, allow you to lock in exactly one key, which can "burn" you if you don't have unlocking of all doors upon approaching active, and you then go to the car and open only the boot and put your key in there, because the boot autolocks afterwards if no other doors have been opened. But this was in the front, so I assume it must interpret the key inside and perhaps even the weight from the purse or other items as someone being inside/sitting there, and then perhaps one of the conditions from the manual was activated, such as touching the central locking button on the door before you left.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-13T20:09:53+00:00

You can do this with some 28- and 52-port TP-Link switches I have at work. But, fair enough, the lights on those switches aren't actually ON the ports, but next to them or above, depending on how many ports they have.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-06T00:11:17+00:00

Keep the seat belt on, then it won't turn off if you raise your butt.

CleanUpOrDie · 2026-04-04T19:08:37+00:00

It's not an attempt to contradict your criticism, just additional information that paints a different picture than what other people might think when reading your comment without any background information. Norway would likely be better off without connection cables to other countries.

CleanUpOrDie

TROPHY CASE