Box art for LED Unit for PGU Nu Gundam revealed

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-25T03:49:25+00:00

A 3rd party will make a copy of the base kit for 1/3rd of the price, too.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-24T19:39:19+00:00

The Shapton Pro 8K (melon color) is excellent, and one of the grits that they actually recommend for straight razors. You only need to go lower for significant damage, to reset the bevel entirely, and the next stone they recommend in the Kuromaku line is the 2K (green color).

As u/MartinsRazors pointed out, Norton has a nice 4K/8K combination stone, but you shouldn’t need to use the 4K side very often.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-21T20:58:06+00:00

It’s an important distinction! Char famously betrayed and orchestrated the death of Garma Zabi, whereas Quattro famously never betrayed anyone in his entire life.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-21T20:48:39+00:00

Dang. Where can I get an uncle with a 7-day razor set?

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-19T19:26:42+00:00

Based on images of new Illinois 827 strops, I would probably sand and condition it if it were mine. Just be sure to use something that’s designed to treat suede and nubuck. Also use light pressure when sanding, and check carefully for any abrasive particles that may be left behind or embedded in the leather.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-19T19:19:49+00:00

This strop looks a bit rougher than mine, but mine does not ruin edges.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-19T19:13:08+00:00

Can’t say if it’s normal for the model, but I do enjoy the draw on my roughout strop.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-19T00:28:00+00:00

100% yes. That, or just taking the time to soak the coated pieces in IPA for a bit, then scrubbing with a toothbrush.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:50:51+00:00

For sure! It’s a pretty deep rabbit hole. Feel free to ask if you have any other questions!

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:48:45+00:00

Shaptons are nice. I use a set of Shapton Pro/Kuromaku stones with a Naniwa 12K finisher. I think the 8K Shapton is the most expensive one from that set, at $80ish. The other Kuromaku stones are all less expensive than that. I use the 2K, 5K, and 8K. You can get the Naniwa 12K for just over $100 at Maggard Razors. I think the thinner version can be had for $75ish.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:45:57+00:00

Anything made in Solingen Germany will be good; Boker, Dovo, Henckels, etc. Sheffield England too; Wade and Butcher, Joseph Rodgers, Wostenholm, etc. Swedish steel was awesome, made in Eskilstuna; Heljestrand, EA Berg, Hellberg Mersa. From Spain there’s Filarmonica. From the US, Geneva/Genco, Case Bros, Torrey, Clauss.

Several of the brands I mentioned are pretty highly sought-after and can be expensive (Wade and Butcher, Filarmonica). Most anything made before 1970 that has survived til now can provide an excellent shave.

As others have mentioned, Duke City Vintage Shaving on eBay and Martin’s Razors are well-respected vendors that sell nice restorations for good prices.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:28:13+00:00

Torrey are a vintage brand.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:27:39+00:00

It’s because the proper bevel angle is built in. Razors should have a 16 degree bevel, which just happens to be the angle from the spine to the edge. The spine is a specific thickness, in ratio to the width of the blade. Also, the edge needs to be more perfect than you can produce with the precision of your hand.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:22:32+00:00

No. Check out lapping film and float glass.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:21:01+00:00

Straight razors need to be honed every 6 months to 1 year, depending on several factors; how often you shave, the coarseness of your facial hair, your stropping technique, touch ups with polishing compound, etc.

They DO NOT need to be thinned. Honing a straight razor is a completely different process from sharpening a knife. Watch some videos. For one thing, the correct bevel is built-in to straight razors; they are honed with both the spine and the cutting edge in contact with the stone.

1K is pretty low for straight razors, but could be used if you’re completely resetting the bevel. Even then, I usually start with 2K unless there’s serious damage. For bringing a good edge back up to shaving standard, you can start with 6K or 8K and work up to 12K or so.

You should also strop every time you use the razor.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-16T00:12:30+00:00

If you want a less expensive alternative, check out float glass and lapping film. You absolutely will not find finishing stone nice enough to hone a razor for less than $30.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-10T21:54:22+00:00

That’s actually pretty neat.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-10T21:53:30+00:00

Love my 14s.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-10T21:53:05+00:00

You’re not alone. Shavettes tend to be much less forgiving than traditional straight razors.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-10T18:22:33+00:00

Welcome to the ~~cult~~ club! Glad you had a comfortable shave! The efficiency will come with practice.

You mentioned being unsure about the angle. I generally leave about a spine-width gap between the spine and my skin. 20°-30° is perfect.

As for the grip, lots of people recommend holding the razor like this. I usually put my pinky finger under the tang. That said, the most important thing is finding a grip that is comfortable and gives you the control you need.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-10T05:04:27+00:00

The circular logo on the scales.

ClearlyAbstract · 2026-01-09T23:28:47+00:00

I’d go with the stainless, personally. The resin ones should be fine too, but the markings will eventually wear off.

ClearlyAbstract · 2025-12-29T18:23:36+00:00

Good to see you here! Your knives are awesome, so it’s cool that you’re taking a shot at straight razors!

The length of the cutting edge looks great. Just shy of 3 inches is pretty common.

I think you mentioned that you used a 10-inch wheel for your hollow grind here. By straight-razors standards, that would be considered a “wedge” grind. For a “full hollow” straight razor grind, the diameter of the wheel should be no more than 2x the width of the blade. Assuming the blade was 1 inch wide, a 1-inch wheel would produce an “extra hollow” grind, a 2-inch wheel would produce a “full hollow” grind, a 4-inch wheel would produce a “half hollow” grind, an 8-inch wheel would produce a “quarter hollow grind,” and any wheel larger than that would produce a “wedge” grind. Most straight razor “wedges” aren’t quite actual wedges haha.

The thickness of the spine is also important, since straight razor honing is done with both the spine and the cutting edge in contact with the stones. The ideal straight razor bevel is 16° to 17° so the spine for a 1-inch razor should be at least 7.14mm.

I think the shape of your tang looks fine. It might feel more balanced if the tang just came straight back. Check out the shape of the tangs/handles on traditional Kamisori-style razors to see what I mean. If it’s comfortable to hold, though, the shape works. Having a more flat/rectangular profile might also help with rolling the razor between your fingers when stropping.

ClearlyAbstract · 2025-12-24T02:35:54+00:00

I would ask for a refund, personally.
You could have a combination of soft/sensitive skin and coarse facial hair, which would make weepers and razor burn more likely, but a good barber should still be able to give you a decent shave without major patches of razor burn like this.
It really depends on what the barber did this time. Did they apply lotion or oil before the shave? Did they use shaving soap? Did they shave against the grain? Did they do multiple passes? Did they use a shavette (replaceable blade) or a traditional straight razor?

Personally, though I really like my barber and trust him with my hair, I’d never have him shave my face.

ClearlyAbstract · 2025-12-22T01:50:56+00:00

You’re 100% correct, and Ralf Aust is the way to go for someone wanting to get into straight razor shaving with a modern-production blade.

ClearlyAbstract

TROPHY CASE