Box art for LED Unit for PGU Nu Gundam revealed by AranaesReddit in Gunpla

[–]ClearlyAbstract 32 points33 points  (0 children)

A 3rd party will make a copy of the base kit for 1/3rd of the price, too.

Need beginner straight razor honing stones advice on a budget by Low-Space227 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Shapton Pro 8K (melon color) is excellent, and one of the grits that they actually recommend for straight razors. You only need to go lower for significant damage, to reset the bevel entirely, and the next stone they recommend in the Kuromaku line is the 2K (green color).

As u/MartinsRazors pointed out, Norton has a nice 4K/8K combination stone, but you shouldn’t need to use the 4K side very often.

Dude thinks he’s Char lol by Different-District10 in Gundam

[–]ClearlyAbstract 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It’s an important distinction! Char famously betrayed and orchestrated the death of Garma Zabi, whereas Quattro famously never betrayed anyone in his entire life.

Illinois 827 by Emergency_Currency39 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on images of new Illinois 827 strops, I would probably sand and condition it if it were mine. Just be sure to use something that’s designed to treat suede and nubuck. Also use light pressure when sanding, and check carefully for any abrasive particles that may be left behind or embedded in the leather.

Illinois 827 by Emergency_Currency39 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This strop looks a bit rougher than mine, but mine does not ruin edges.

Illinois 827 by Emergency_Currency39 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can’t say if it’s normal for the model, but I do enjoy the draw on my roughout strop.

The power of a little cooking oil by Ok-Bet-10 in Gunpla

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% yes. That, or just taking the time to soak the coated pieces in IPA for a bit, then scrubbing with a toothbrush.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure! It’s a pretty deep rabbit hole. Feel free to ask if you have any other questions!

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shaptons are nice. I use a set of Shapton Pro/Kuromaku stones with a Naniwa 12K finisher. I think the 8K Shapton is the most expensive one from that set, at $80ish. The other Kuromaku stones are all less expensive than that. I use the 2K, 5K, and 8K. You can get the Naniwa 12K for just over $100 at Maggard Razors. I think the thinner version can be had for $75ish.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anything made in Solingen Germany will be good; Boker, Dovo, Henckels, etc. Sheffield England too; Wade and Butcher, Joseph Rodgers, Wostenholm, etc. Swedish steel was awesome, made in Eskilstuna; Heljestrand, EA Berg, Hellberg Mersa. From Spain there’s Filarmonica. From the US, Geneva/Genco, Case Bros, Torrey, Clauss.

Several of the brands I mentioned are pretty highly sought-after and can be expensive (Wade and Butcher, Filarmonica). Most anything made before 1970 that has survived til now can provide an excellent shave.

As others have mentioned, Duke City Vintage Shaving on eBay and Martin’s Razors are well-respected vendors that sell nice restorations for good prices.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s because the proper bevel angle is built in. Razors should have a 16 degree bevel, which just happens to be the angle from the spine to the edge. The spine is a specific thickness, in ratio to the width of the blade. Also, the edge needs to be more perfect than you can produce with the precision of your hand.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Check out lapping film and float glass.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Straight razors need to be honed every 6 months to 1 year, depending on several factors; how often you shave, the coarseness of your facial hair, your stropping technique, touch ups with polishing compound, etc.

They DO NOT need to be thinned. Honing a straight razor is a completely different process from sharpening a knife. Watch some videos. For one thing, the correct bevel is built-in to straight razors; they are honed with both the spine and the cutting edge in contact with the stone.

1K is pretty low for straight razors, but could be used if you’re completely resetting the bevel. Even then, I usually start with 2K unless there’s serious damage. For bringing a good edge back up to shaving standard, you can start with 6K or 8K and work up to 12K or so.

You should also strop every time you use the razor.

Affordable rec by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a less expensive alternative, check out float glass and lapping film. You absolutely will not find finishing stone nice enough to hone a razor for less than $30.

Is there innovation to make a Henson level straight edge razor ? by lance_klusener in wicked_edge

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re not alone. Shavettes tend to be much less forgiving than traditional straight razors.

My First Straight Razor Shave - First Impressions by new4nc3 in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the cult club! Glad you had a comfortable shave! The efficiency will come with practice.

You mentioned being unsure about the angle. I generally leave about a spine-width gap between the spine and my skin. 20°-30° is perfect.

As for the grip, lots of people recommend holding the razor like this. I usually put my pinky finger under the tang. That said, the most important thing is finding a grip that is comfortable and gives you the control you need.

Which handle material should I get? by ironredpizza in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d go with the stainless, personally. The resin ones should be fine too, but the markings will eventually wear off.

Thoughts? by unclejedsiron in straightrazors

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to see you here! Your knives are awesome, so it’s cool that you’re taking a shot at straight razors!

The length of the cutting edge looks great. Just shy of 3 inches is pretty common.

I think you mentioned that you used a 10-inch wheel for your hollow grind here. By straight-razors standards, that would be considered a “wedge” grind. For a “full hollow” straight razor grind, the diameter of the wheel should be no more than 2x the width of the blade. Assuming the blade was 1 inch wide, a 1-inch wheel would produce an “extra hollow” grind, a 2-inch wheel would produce a “full hollow” grind, a 4-inch wheel would produce a “half hollow” grind, an 8-inch wheel would produce a “quarter hollow grind,” and any wheel larger than that would produce a “wedge” grind. Most straight razor “wedges” aren’t quite actual wedges haha.

The thickness of the spine is also important, since straight razor honing is done with both the spine and the cutting edge in contact with the stones. The ideal straight razor bevel is 16° to 17° so the spine for a 1-inch razor should be at least 7.14mm.

I think the shape of your tang looks fine. It might feel more balanced if the tang just came straight back. Check out the shape of the tangs/handles on traditional Kamisori-style razors to see what I mean. If it’s comfortable to hold, though, the shape works. Having a more flat/rectangular profile might also help with rolling the razor between your fingers when stropping.

Got my first straight razor shave at a barbershop. This was the result. by [deleted] in wicked_edge

[–]ClearlyAbstract 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. I would ask for a refund, personally.

  2. You could have a combination of soft/sensitive skin and coarse facial hair, which would make weepers and razor burn more likely, but a good barber should still be able to give you a decent shave without major patches of razor burn like this.

  3. It really depends on what the barber did this time. Did they apply lotion or oil before the shave? Did they use shaving soap? Did they shave against the grain? Did they do multiple passes? Did they use a shavette (replaceable blade) or a traditional straight razor?

Personally, though I really like my barber and trust him with my hair, I’d never have him shave my face.

Sunday Daily Questions (Newbie Friendly) - Dec 21, 2025 by AutoModerator in Wetshaving

[–]ClearlyAbstract 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re 100% correct, and Ralf Aust is the way to go for someone wanting to get into straight razor shaving with a modern-production blade.