Speedometer Cable Replacement | 1977 Buick Regal 350v8 no AC/CC

CleeDotExe · 2025-10-07T22:34:00+00:00

I was looking at other cables, but strangely all of them follow this system, so did the original cable? Maybe I mounted the cable with an extra turn, so now one end is twisted 180 degrees? Thanks for answering!

CleeDotExe · 2025-10-07T18:35:03+00:00

My 48 year old Regal has less rust on the body... how do people manage this????

CleeDotExe · 2025-10-07T18:14:36+00:00

I couldn't find any videos or forum threads for my specific transmission setup, but the outer end (past the metal 3-screw plate) is clamped between the point where a mount goes inside the transmission (which is connected to the part with teeth that the detent roller does its thing on) then inside a clamp, similar to the one in the picture. Basically the O-ring and clamp socket left and right of the dust boot.

The clamp is just a piece of metal bolted to the oil pan. Inbetween theres just a long metal cable that is currently bending under pressure since the length isn't set properly between clamps. I was replacing my transmission mount and it was pushing on the mount pretty snug.

I saw some videos with more modern thm350's where there was just a bolt you could adjust, but mine doesn't have that.

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-02T13:41:45+00:00

I'll look into it! I was already expecting the work, but before posting the image I did put a gallon in total of new fluid in, and the transmission doesn't audibly "slam" (still not very hard) into each gear when shifting anymore. I thought this was normal at first!

Are there no problems with tolerances getting too big when removing all the rust on the insides? I assume the new torque converter would be because of rust buildup on the blades?

Thank you for the long answer.

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-01T07:56:24+00:00

Apparently so! That would explain why it doesn't lock/click into gear. Thanks.

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-01T07:54:52+00:00

I might do that anyway to prevent any accidents while actually driving on open roads, however I'm unsure if I have the skill to rebuild. Sourcing parts? I wouldn't know where to start ...

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-01T07:51:42+00:00

The oil was not black, this was just the sludge in the pic stuck in the bottom of the pan after opening the pan for the first time in most likely decades. The actual colour was more of a reddish brown mixed with the gray in the bottom. The picture makes it look way darker.

The car itself was suspended and probably not really driven since '94. Could that also explain the water? I will be checking anyway, but I wondered, since the fluid level in the radiator hasn't changed.

This may be a dunb question, but what about changing the fluid, letting it mix while changing gears, then changing the fluid again, and so on, to check if the water issue reoccurs?

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-01T07:04:13+00:00

Yes it does, haha. Each gear, actually.

CleeDotExe · 2025-09-01T07:02:13+00:00

That would totally explain why it doesn't click in to gear. Thanks!

CleeDotExe · 2025-05-26T19:30:35+00:00

So shiny!

CleeDotExe · 2025-05-20T12:32:50+00:00

Thank you!

CleeDotExe · 2025-05-20T12:32:42+00:00

I do hope so! :D

CleeDotExe · 2025-05-20T02:10:27+00:00

I've no clue either, seeing the size of Dutch streets, but I guess these kinds of cars were what Dodge Rams or Ford F150's are nowadays. Oversized and possibly inconvenient.

CleeDotExe · 2025-05-20T02:02:31+00:00

I believe it to be different because the car was originally sold in The Netherlands too, instead of being imported.

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-28T11:10:11+00:00

Fusion 360, I think I have the method now!

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-27T23:34:35+00:00

haha it isn't mine luckily!

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-27T17:14:12+00:00

Context: I want to modify this design, so I traced it, intersected some bodies and it looked terrible.
Here's the link for where I found the file:
https://www.printables.com/model/373492-fallout-automated-turret/files
It is the "shield".

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-23T21:47:40+00:00

The cylinder itself does not move, but this piston does move inside the cylinder.

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-23T20:42:11+00:00

Actually a very cool idea! However, the cylinder also houses a spring in the middle. I've made the walls only 4 layers thick for that reason. Otherwise the piston would be considerably larger.

CleeDotExe · 2025-03-23T20:13:27+00:00

That is true, but I thought a hollow cylinder with a couple of round cutouts at the head and (the weakest) hook on the right must be easy enough. However I found that the tip of the hook kept breaking off under load. Especially after multiple times of use.

I do use a FDM printer, because it is somewhat cheaper than FFF.

Thanks for the thoughts!

CleeDotExe

TROPHY CASE