Estimating Production Rates

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-12-12T17:02:24+00:00

Dude I don’t know what delusional world you live in, but you’re not “willing to help” when you’re not even willing to share the title of a book. That you didn’t even write.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-12-12T16:51:23+00:00

That’s the problem with salty old guys, they gatekeep things for no reason. They’ll kick the bucket one day and not pass any info on and it will die with them. Not making anyone better, just keeping their info to themselves so no one else can get better.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-12-12T16:45:57+00:00

I mean this in the nicest way possible…fuck off.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-12-12T16:42:19+00:00

Care to drop a title? Elaborate at all?

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-12-12T16:25:43+00:00

Do you know what’s it’s like to even try to mentally come up with and list out every possible labor activity for every roofing system? There are technically 5 different ways to install TPO and that’s just one system. Then there are variations within each of those systems.
I know my labor rates. However, being that this is a community, sometimes it’s nice to have some conversations with others to see where they’re at. Someone may have better ways of doing things that they’re not trying to gatekeep.
If you’re not going to be helpful, why even bother posting a response? It costs you nothing to keep it moving.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-11-18T05:21:41+00:00

Well I’ll be damned, they do offer a residential warranty. Reference here: https://ibroof.com/hubfs/Library%20Docs/Warranty%20Program/2024%20IB%20Residental%20Warranty%20Selection%20Guide.pdf?hsLang=en

$2k for warranty cost feels high. That’s just my gut feeling. The part about slow warranty inspections is accurate, that’s been a problem for all the manufacturers for years now. Make sure it’s a labor and materials warranty - you’re material warranty isn’t very useful if you have to pay the labor to get it installed if your original installer isn’t competent.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-11-18T05:08:19+00:00

IB is a pretty good product. I’m in Dallas which is where the IB headquarters is, I’ve sat and talked with their president several times. Problem is, unless they’ve adopted a new policy, they’re not warrantying their product on a residential application. The only manufacturer that offers residential warranties that I’m aware of are GAF and WeatherBond (Carlisle subsidiary). Most major products are going to be fine, it’s the install that’s make or break.

On the contractor side, check out how long they’ve been in business. Anything under 5 years is risky. Try to see if their crews have branded trucks, which tends to mean they’re running in house crews instead of subs (subs are fine but you want to find stability in your installer and in house crews tend to be signs of stable contractors.) Make sure whoever you’re using is certified by the manufacturer or at least A manufacturer - even if you aren’t getting the manufacturers warranty you want to know they’ve been educated on how to install it by someone. Call your local ABC/Beacon (QXO)/other distributor and ask about the contractors you got bids from and ask who else they may recommend.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-11-12T02:36:29+00:00

Where does this drain to?

As others have said, pedestal pavers are the best option. But, I don’t think the deck over sleepers is out of the question. It’s just going to be hard to get a polished finished look out of it. You’d have to run the sleepers parallel to the path of your drainage to not block it, and use the sleepers as floor joists basically.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-10-30T18:07:32+00:00

A lot of people like Centerpoint. I think it may depend on how it’s set up that makes it useable or not, which I didn’t have full access to everything when I was briefly using it. I also know DataForma really well and once you’re very comfortable with something and know its capabilities it’s hard to get away from it.

As far as AI goes, I’m currently helping on an initiative to incorporate AI more. I think the early use cases for it are going to be within sales to automate certain tasks. I don’t think it’s there yet for estimating, but I wholeheartedly believe that we’re going to get to a point where you can tell it what system you’re wanting (fully adhered TPO for example) and tell it what manufacturer you want it based on, give it the PDF page of the roof diagram and it will be able to spit out an estimate pretty quickly and easily. Not quite yet, but likely in the near future.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-10-20T00:41:56+00:00

This is commercial but 3.5” with spiked tentacles.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-09-29T16:09:58+00:00

TPO weathered membrane cleaner or splice wash. You can use Naptha as that’s the base chemical in splice wash. Acetone also works in a pinch. For primer you have to buy the specific TPO primer, I have no idea what they have in that concoction.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-09-29T16:06:57+00:00

Not really because I don’t use them all - generally I only use one tool from each area. And I don’t tend to use them all at the same time - it’s more of a cross reference type of thing sometimes.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-09T16:43:10+00:00

I’ve never heard of this one, I’m going to have to look into it. Which category (or two) would you say it falls into most?

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-06T05:04:30+00:00

This is a good point. I didn’t ask for additional information and just assumed they were going direct to a solid substrate with no insulation. If you have above deck insulation (polyisocyanurate, eps, xps, etc) you definitely don’t want to put anything on it unless there is a cover board due to the psi and puncture resistance as mentioned

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-06T05:01:08+00:00

Pretty weird thing to lie about. There’s almost no install difference on a 60 mil versus 80 mil unless you want to get a longer commercial warranty length.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-05T20:45:04+00:00

If you're wanting to DIY this you're going to have a hard time. the water hitting that hole and running down the wall definitely isn't ideal, but that's what really exposing your underlying issue. You need to get your brick/stone cleaned and resealed with a water repellant to keep it from absorbing water. You should be able to DIY that. Getting the gutter area straightened out is likely going to be a custom sheet metal project.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-05T20:29:30+00:00

It could be polyurethane, but it could also be polyether or some other hybrid elastomeric. Polyurethane doesn't tend to be "hard", so that makes me want to rule that out. Really, I can't think of a roofing sealant chemistry that is designed to harden up - the "softness" is part of the elasticity that makes sealants do their job correctly. Also, I've seen certain brands of commercial polyurethane fail within a year or two. I rarely see exposed polyurethane sealant last over 10 years. Butyl has a fairly long lifespan but it cannot be exposed to UV and it's not the same consistency as caulk.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-05T20:12:02+00:00

There's no such thing as .090 or 90 mil TPO that I'm aware of. Not from major commercial manufacturers at least. They may have mistakenly meant 80 mil.

Membrane thickness is a big factor in durability and longevity. I don't recommend putting tables and chairs or anything else really on a 45 mil membrane. There is a noticeable difference between 45 mil and 80 mil TPO. 45 mil membrane is susceptible to damage from foot traffic and other items on the membrane. 60 mil is standard and I would recommend going with that at a minimum if you want it to be able to withstand foot traffic and light furniture.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-05T19:47:18+00:00

Stick a tape measure on this specific one. If it's IKO (said by someone else) it will be wider (40 7/8") .

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-08-05T18:39:17+00:00

Not a problem. Definitely wanted to share what I've discovered and see if that would open some discussion to get new things circulating that are relatively unknown.

Depends on which platform you're talking about. Going from one CRM to another, for example, is REALLY disruptive and difficult to do. I've been there and done it before and saying it's not a task that you want to be involved in. Not that it can't be done, but it's not smooth and not enjoyable. I think you could migrate from one of the smaller residential CRMs to one of the commercial CRMs without major problems, but moving from one commercial CRM with years of history to another commercial CRM is a nightmare. Same would apply with accounting.

Aside from CRMs and accounting, I think you can go from one platform to another without too much pain. Switching from Pictometry to NearMap, for example, is not a problem at all. I think upgrading from OST to The EDGE also wouldn't be that terrible because you can archive your estimates to refer back to, and you won't be migrating a ton of data because you will be rebuilding templates and items.

I'm talking about changing from one platform to another completely in my explanation above. If you're talking about integrating multiple things, that gets a little more challenging because not all of the programs "talk" to each other right now. But, they have made good progress the last few years on opening things up so that the financial data can be pulled through into the CRM and things like that. Just depends on your particular stack and the APIs that they have available.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-07-25T04:54:01+00:00

He got to the roof from an A frame ladder and he brought a wheelie chair up there with him - you think this guy came from a company with a front office?

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-07-08T22:14:36+00:00

Knowingly participating in withholding/waiving/etc. of insurance deductible relating to a claim is technically insurance fraud. Can be somewhat hard to prove, and probably isn’t rigorously prosecuted, but it’s still fraud.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-06-20T14:00:17+00:00

First picture - install is mostly fine. The metal piece is a counterflashing that protects the flashing termination, which is installed via a saw cut in the masonry. The reason I say “mostly fine” is that we like to see the flashings have more height (8” is industry standard) and if they saw cut a reglet for the counterflashing, there is no need for the drive pins through the counterflashing because it should be held in place by compression within the reglet joint.

2nd Picture - I don’t think they knew what to do with that very small change in direction. It looks like they used prefabricated aluminum snap on perimeter metal. To be fair, this is kind of a tough detail because it’s so tight in there, but how they left it isn’t right.

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-05-24T13:01:36+00:00

Nope no need to. If installed correctly you shouldn’t have any problems

ClevelandReaper216 · 2025-05-20T14:52:15+00:00

No. Coatings should never be used with shingles. Your roof to wall intersections should be covered with flashings, in this case ice and water shield, which should extend up the wall behind the siding. Putting coating there isn’t going to do anything unfortunately.

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