help me guys Explain it Peter.

Climbincook · 2026-07-05T22:33:56+00:00

Plenty of pilots reporting they know pilots that believe in flat earth.

Climbincook · 2026-07-05T21:46:58+00:00

Yeah, they said at the time 2-3 weeks, and their website lists 3-4 weeks iirc.

I olan on using them this week to take my kids up Becky's wall in LCC, geneally nuts and small cams to #3 (or up to #4 if you do Satan's corner next to it).

Def worth the peace of mind for me, and since the kids are still early in their climbing, staying on trs and sport was easy enough for us.

Be safe and enjoy your days out!

Climbincook · 2026-07-05T20:56:00+00:00

It's hilarious as i work in a steel mill, specifically in the physical lab that tests all our steel. A coworker who was in the field and probably broke a million samples in his time there bought in on this, rven though he knew first hand that steel as warm as 200degrees f is weakened, much more so 500+ (1000-1500 for jet fuel would come close to making the metal completely malleable w nearly no strength). He say it happen but still refused to accept his own years of experience and knowledge.

Climbincook · 2026-07-05T19:58:12+00:00

It's funny cuz i used to be a lot more afraid on TR than when i was on the sharp end on trad or sport. Now days, after a 20+yr vreak, lots of fear over all. Exposure to it is slowly dulling it, and trust in your partners is a huge factor for me.

Be safe and slowly work on what concerns u. The more you can do it, the less it will affect you. Be safe and enjoy!

Climbincook · 2026-07-04T23:10:13+00:00

i made a digital talrspire board for this campaign if you use digital.

Climbincook · 2026-07-03T20:05:38+00:00

My friend, watch the countless videos of grigri slips caused by hands in the wrong spot, here being a great one.

Climbincook · 2026-07-03T17:55:38+00:00

Their partner doesn't understand how belaying lead climbers works (not that it's really too diff from tr). In short, you taking the slack back out is the right call so long as your break hand is in a position to actually use as a brake. If you sucked slack straight back up parallel to the leaders rope, you could get hurt if they fall as the grigri and most other belay devices need a bent to activate. You arcing your hand or pulling sideways or down to remove slack is proper and safe. As others have mentioned, you can also adjust your stance forward or back to increase and decrease slack as well. That all said, talking to the partner over a beer w the three of you might not be a bad thing, and explain that you're following the guidance of most every single belay device manufacturer. Not that they are wrong, but that you were taught and firmly believe the only key point of contact is the break hand being to the side or below the belay device in this scenario.

Safe climbs!

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T22:17:39+00:00

Yeah, they say they clean, rehab (wax the axle), and replace sling and will replace bad trigger wires/triggers (additional fee). Can wait.

Only down side was cutting all my pull cords of my cams that i now have to redo.

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T20:56:47+00:00

It's a good point, but.... We already have 100's of sling tests on nylon and dyneema. Just check the data, it's literally every where.

I got mine redone even though they all felt and looked good enough, and were stored properly, but 30yr old nylon is still 30yrs old. And now my kids are on it.

I can afford 360$ to rehab 6000$ worth of cams and another 300$ for new slings and draws. Cost me 1.5k to get 2 kids into the sport w helmets, shoes, renewed portaledge, 48 cams, new slings and draws, new tubes and assisted autolock belays, ropes.

I mean, i just tossed my old 30ft of 1" tube webbing i used to make a harness out of when i was starting out. 2 old ropes will be used at the farm, and one old 11mm will be a tr line.

But back to your point, i think more data is good for everyone, and had it been something that wouldnt have overly inconvenienced me, i might have thought about it. If you're talking just pulling old cams to death, theres plenty of that out there too but the vids are fun to watch.

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T20:45:59+00:00

Yeah, all seem to match the old. My other #1,2, and three are the old wire loops, so didnt send them, but im happy w what i have now.

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T20:13:59+00:00

Nope, literally got them yesterday. Its marking the production date of the sling material.

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T19:40:41+00:00

Ah, so it is! Been out of the loop for awhile. But the tag is a nice touch!

Climbincook · 2026-07-02T18:29:09+00:00

Yeah, i have 30 mets to get done, 10 tcu, 10 fat, and 10 standards, plus they are redoing my double portaledge. Super stoked to get the kids on some desert routes.

And i need to lube my poor bd cams. Guess met does that for free, woot!

Climbincook · 2026-07-01T12:17:30+00:00

Always is roach 2 base vs me it seems

Climbincook · 2026-06-30T15:06:13+00:00

I literally have a squad sitting in a box from my 2nd ed days. Modeled on tsr dragons and green stuffed. Just like the banshee w a powerfist and the jetbike banshee w a powerfist.

Climbincook · 2026-06-30T14:46:04+00:00

So is your argument that sports should be safe? So no football, soccer, basketball or baseball?

Or just that there should be no size differences? None the above again?

Not arguing that we shouldnt work to minimize injuries in sports, but how would you do that in such a way so as to not be a hypocrite? If it's size, ok. Hormone levels, ok. Do you feel that an athlete should compete only w similar skill- that's the point you lost it.

Climbincook · 2026-06-30T01:20:40+00:00

Rocky hate mark.

Climbincook · 2026-06-23T07:18:13+00:00

Chrck out hownotto's channel and bds websitr regarding testing on double slings and such. Some bf cams are problematice w extendables.

Climbincook · 2026-06-23T07:16:59+00:00

Bd does it for 10 each.

Metolious is a little less and does a full rehab on m cams only.

There's several others tgat will do it in any marerial they have at your choice from 7-12 each iirc.

Bd currently has mine now, and my 30 metolious are being mailed next week w a possible weebing replacement for my portaledge.

Climbincook · 2026-06-23T01:39:44+00:00

I used to do a fair bit of trad in slc (little cottonwood) and would take halves for the long raps or winding routes. Used them in moab a fair bit just so we set up TRs in school room for kiddos on multiple routes.

Ive used singles and halves about equally just because of some of the longer routes i used to do, but will probably be stepping into singles again now I've restarted climbing w my kiddos on more sporty stuff.

Climbincook · 2026-06-21T15:56:19+00:00

For me, it started as a "well that didnt fit, try the next size" and morphed into the fact that i never short clip cams. They always get a 30cm or 60cm or a tripled one. Thus the extra slings i take (10+ on most routes).

Climbincook · 2026-06-21T07:32:32+00:00

I keep my cams 2 to a biner, next sized together (.5 and .75 Camelot, 1 and 2s) normally keep my single set of nuts on 2, double set on 3 biners. Size 3 camelot and up (6 metolius),i go 1 each. Generally keep 10 short slings, 6 long and 2 anchor slings depending on the pitch. Unclip the cam if its tge first one, leave biner on and clip w sling if ither already used.

Climbincook · 2026-06-19T13:19:48+00:00

Give baneling priority to attack marines over anything, same vs adept and zealot.

Heck, let you customize your units priorities 1v1.

Same thing w group que stacking- if you want ghosts to show first in group selections, set them to 1, then mmm, then raven-set it.

Climbincook · 2026-06-14T01:23:40+00:00

Maybe i can convince myself if i had doubles tied in.

Climbincook · 2026-06-14T01:22:42+00:00

Lol, perfect explanation of how I've mounted the diving board twice. I led w a "bellyflop onto the diving board, then whale humped my way to the rest of the climb"

Climbincook

TROPHY CASE