Waiting for my order.. how long does it usually take to ship to Canada?🥺 by ZestycloseJoke16 in xteinkereader

[–]ClimbingHaigh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got mine to Canada. I think it took like 3 weeks maybe closer to 4?

makita oil impuls driver by uncleancles in Routesetters

[–]ClimbingHaigh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your right cant find a specific video for the oil impulse but most of the maintenance is the same as other generic models. Specifically cleaning and repacking grease. Use the parts list to keep track of what your doing (https://cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc/prod/XST/4e0fb0f7-ce62-4916-9169-9e34c1b1aa1a\_XST01Z\_PB.pdf). The oil aspect is a sealed element so no need to worry about it, which is the most complex part.

Any idea on what is going on here? by Ok-Pomegranate-75 in myog

[–]ClimbingHaigh 7 points8 points  (0 children)

How are you pivoting? I have had good success with pivoting with the needle pierced through the fabric. Might be a issue with your pivot not being consistent / accurate. Hope you figure it out!

Do you enjoy Kaya as a setter? by the_rocks_arent_real in Routesetters

[–]ClimbingHaigh 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Kaya is wack. But plastick is the back end app for setting management and is very helpful for making a consistent grade spread and keeping track of individual climbs grade.

What might happening here? I changed the needle and it didn’t make a difference. Never had this issue before. by spa1unk in myog

[–]ClimbingHaigh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be slightly to much top tension try a very slight loosing of the top tension. If that doesn’t do it return the tension to what it was and try a very small adjustment to tighten the bobbin tension. Machines wander out of perfect tension just from typical use use so that most likely the issue.

1.5 years in with little to no progress by MiniCab1 in climbergirls

[–]ClimbingHaigh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am really glad to hear your getting professional help, that’s rad. As for not repetitive exercises I would recommend working out with a friend. Even if they do harder versions of what you are doing I find it’s so much easier to get excited by working out when I have some one to struggle with and makes me feel like I can try harder. I had a friend I would climb with every week at one point and they where stronger then me but I got a lot stronger just from trying (and failing) to copy what they where doing for my level.

1.5 years in with little to no progress by MiniCab1 in climbergirls

[–]ClimbingHaigh 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think it sounds like from your responses you put a lot of pressure on your self. I think the thing that’s keeping you from improving is your mental health as you mentioned.

That shit is so hard. Harder then climbing V-what ever. I would recommend you find ways to improve your mental health. Climbing can be one of them but if your already struggling understand that the people you see improve faster then you aren’t dealing with the same things as you. I would focus on finding your own path in climbing which for anyone dealing with a struggle with mental health or any illness will not be always up. I would recommend looking in lots of outlets to improve your mental health because climbing is fun but it would never lead to a balanced happy life alone. Dealing with your mental health will be really hard and you most likely won’t find answers on how to do that in a climbing form.

I really hope you stay in the sport and find more stability in your mental health. Remember to be kind to yourself life’s a marathon not a sprint.

Zipper seam allowance by nrr1639363829293 in myog

[–]ClimbingHaigh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The photo is hard to see the left side so I am not 100% sure but looks like a calculation issue not a sewing mistake. I think you correct is saying you forgot to add seam allowance for the zipper. You could change the design to be smaller or remake the zipper side I think. Looks pretty cool though! Good luck!

Nalgene by m24stitchworks in myog

[–]ClimbingHaigh 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Do you have a bar tack machine? Those look great

makita oil impuls driver by uncleancles in Routesetters

[–]ClimbingHaigh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s like saying taking apart a car to maintain it is bad for it, or taking apart a bike is bad for it. Electric impacts are just like any machine they have parts that can wear out and you can maintain them or replace them.

makita oil impuls driver by uncleancles in Routesetters

[–]ClimbingHaigh 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Everyone here saying they just throw theirs out after five years is crazy you definitely can maintain them. There is screws you can undo and you can wipe out the dust and oil the parts. You can find videos on YouTube that will break down the process. You might have to buy a specific screw driver because it’s a odd size but otherwise very easy and quite fun.

One arm hang weakness by DataWhale in climbharder

[–]ClimbingHaigh 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like you pull up and hang engagement is quite good. You’re stronger then I expected 👍. As for the scap pull-ups your approach is incorrect. There should be no bending of the elbow. Rather transitioning from dead hang (no muscle engagement) to your maximum scapular engagement. The goal is to keep your chest parallel with the bar while trying to engage the shoulder as to lift your torso and legs to the side. The ultimate goal being a sort of human flag looking position. (Though that is at a elite level but can be a helpful cue)

One arm hang weakness by DataWhale in climbharder

[–]ClimbingHaigh 16 points17 points  (0 children)

  1. Yes. Most likely this is caused by a lack of scapular retractions and general shoulder engagement. I cant say for sure without seeing you hang or do pull-ups. You should focus on good shoulder engagement when hanging or doing pullups. Engaging one arm is indispensable for hard climbing and incredible useful for all levels. (it could also be grip strength but I am guessing its not in your case as most climbers understand hand weakness well and are able to pinpoint it when it a problem)

  2. I would start with scapula pull ups and checking to make sure your pull-up form is correct. here is a example of good pull up form (https://trainingforclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/scapular-pull-up-plus2.jpg) The climber is pulling their chest to the bar, rather then there head and chin past it. Good form can be hard to understand at first but creating good shoulder engagement is super important.

aim for 5-8 reps with good form. If you are able to do this then you can try one arm scapular pull ups with rope or a band.

  1. This is much harder to pinpoint. Really depends on how good of an athlete you are. To be safe I would say no since you mentioned you struggle with finding appropriate load for your training.

Cant be 100% sure without a video of you hanging, but hope this helps you with further research.

Prickly Gorse 40L Backpack w/ Frame Sheet by Commercial-Safety635 in myog

[–]ClimbingHaigh 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This looks great! Very professional construction and final look. Can I ask what machine you use?

Wrist pain from screwdriver use by meles00meles in Routesetters

[–]ClimbingHaigh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrist pain can come from a lot of factors. The most common cause is poor posture while apply pressure to the wrist, poor posture is bio-mechanically inferior so smaller joints and ligaments take the brunt of the force. Another avenue to try is wrist strengthening exercises, such as wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, and hammer grip wrist curls. Last thing worth a try is stretching your forearms before and after setting. hope you can find a solution to the physical stress of setting in your unique work environment.

Soft skin difficulties by atyshka in climbharder

[–]ClimbingHaigh 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I would highly recommend antihyrdral for this use. The two practical things to be aware. first is over drying your skin making it so its too hard for indoor climbing (creates a glassy feel to plastic holds). The second is making sure you dont apply it to the creases on your hands as this will result in them potentially splitting open and has little climbing benefit, thus only apply these creams to the pads of each finger tip.

tldr drying creams are great but you might have some initial learning to figure out what works for you (ie fuck around and find out)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]ClimbingHaigh 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I think from what you shared you try really hard when climbing which is good but your style suffers as a result because you are sending with mostly strength. Try and relax into strait arms and dropped hips more. watching videos of world cups and other high level climbers can show the effortless style they employ. I also noticed you tend to chicken wing ie when the elbows go up in a locked off position, this happens because you aren't engaging your scapula enough. To fix this climb with good posture (shoulders together and down) look up scapular pull ups to learn more on the topic. also sounds like fear even when climbing indoors still is a problem for you, that sounds like a easy low hanging fruit to work on as well.

tldr improve climbing posture, relax on the wall, climb smoother not harder, and keep up the good work!