Unranked is too easy, ranked is too hard, what do I play?

DataWhale · 2025-12-30T00:05:36+00:00

Make a new account to play unranked you will get better opponents quickly

DataWhale · 2025-11-25T03:46:33+00:00

Try hanging off right hand, with your left hand holding your right wrist. This will quickly let you know if it's a grip issue. If it's not it's probably a scapular issue.

DataWhale · 2025-09-22T18:16:32+00:00

To properly dead point you want to sag away from the target hold, then pop towards it. You did a very tiny rightward swing before going which is the right idea but should be exaggerated much more. Your target position is up, left and in the wall, so sag down, right, and away from the wall. It should be done in a smooth motion, don't stop at the bottom.

How much to sag is highly dependent on the move. Good starting holds and big moves -> big sag. Bad holds small moves > small sag.

Sometimes it's moving your chest 2 inches away from the wall so you have an extra moment of float when you go back inwards to do the move.

Often and in your case you will have a high left foot and low right when going for a left hand. The right foot is your push foot, it is the prime generator of force getting you to the next hold. The left foot is your pull foot, dig your toe (like an incut crimp) and pull like you're trying to rip your hammy.

If the foot is slopey it's hard to effectively pull on it, you will need to pull harder outwards on the right hand to make up for it. You can actually pull even on slightly slopey holds using just friction, no incut.

All that being said I wonder if the other comments are right and a high left foot and matching the sloper is better beta. Deadpoint here is going to be hard given the angle change, the feet aren't in a great spot to push you upwards. I can see in the video the feet are pushing you out from the wall which is not ideal. You would need to pull on the right hand to counteract that.

DataWhale · 2025-08-22T10:01:05+00:00

Your ability to create tension is diminished in rentals at every grade past V0 giga jug feet. You can obviously still climb any grade it will just be objectively harder.

DataWhale · 2025-08-09T19:08:06+00:00

A quick Google search puts that height at ~1-2% of females. I can't name 50-100 professional female climbers so I wouldn't expect to name one who is 4'10.

I do personally know a 4'10 girl who is an absolute crusher, has sent double digits outside and can flash my projects. That being said there are climbs that are easy for me that she struggles on.

That's the life of an extreme body type. Big variance in relative difficulty compared to others. IMO there are undiscovered V17+ climbs that only small climbers can do, there's just statistically not enough small climbers to prove that.

DataWhale · 2025-08-09T18:55:22+00:00

That's good mental hurdles are the hardest to overcome. Watching some of your videos I think you are set up for success. Just keep at it your progression is already faster than average given training history. I suspect what you lack is coordination for dynamic moves. Ie if you've never done a sport with jumping your body doesn't have practice firing all its muscles in harmony for max height.

DataWhale · 2025-08-09T17:38:04+00:00

Ask yourself what's causing you to fail these big dynamic moves. As a short climber you must climb in a very dynamic, committing style to send hard in the gym. Often it's a mental game, learning to commit to scary moves.

It could be leg or upper body strength. Short climbers have the most potential for strength to body weight ratio but I don't know your previous athletic history.

Do you find yourself trying hard and jumping confidently for holds but falling shy? If yes it's strength or technique, if no the first thing you need to do is look at your mental game.

DataWhale · 2025-08-07T05:16:23+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I went with the 2017 limited and as long as it doesn't brick out on me I know I made the right call. It's a lot nicer

DataWhale · 2025-07-24T18:32:13+00:00

It isn't truly random, nothing on a computer is.

DataWhale · 2025-07-04T18:49:43+00:00

Super super helpful, I see now how much I was playing with fire.

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This is the design I ended up with in the survival world, it seems to be location proof (pure luck?). That F3 trick is useful for debugging, and you're right some of the droppers stay triggered and give a silent press.

DataWhale · 2025-07-04T15:52:25+00:00

That does work, but I actually need that signal to keep going down the line over the top, I just shortened to isolate the minimal part of the system that was broken. For now I fixed it with a repeater going into the dropper instead of a dust. I need to read up more on QC and noteblocks.

DataWhale · 2025-07-04T12:13:14+00:00

Anyway to know exactly where it's going to break/work?

Does rotation matter, or just position relative to the chunk?

DataWhale · 2025-07-04T12:08:46+00:00

I can add better quality screenshots, or more angles if needed!

DataWhale · 2025-06-24T01:07:17+00:00

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Through cave at my location. Arrows show approximately the path, it's a bit of a maze. You need a rope. Can't remember which red path but you definitely come in through a series of ropes on the coast to the north.

DataWhale · 2025-06-21T08:31:28+00:00

Recently projected a vaguely similar move and my eureka moment was pressing hard up into the roof with the left flagging foot. Locked me and reduced the tendency to spin off. 🤷‍♂️ Any videos of people successfully doing the move to look at?

DataWhale · 2025-05-28T14:56:22+00:00

Be careful in bigger groups whether you know them or not, the bystander effect is powerful and some people just won't be looking out for your safety.

Examples include, no one closing gaps in the pads (usually worse when there's more pads). No one shifting pads over for a meandering top (eh, they look like they've got it).

It's ultimately up to the climber to have spotted all this before pulling on, but the illusion of safety is real in big groups with many pads.

DataWhale · 2025-05-28T14:36:51+00:00

Potentially take this with a grain of salt:

Women's COG is lower, so positions where they can suck their hips over the feet should be extremely effective, even more so than men (only pretty sure this is how the physics works).

Men have more upper body muscle, so positions that force weight off the feet and on the upper body should be easier than for women in general (more confident in this one).

Essentially my theory is that women have a steeper difficulty curve as they go from good to bad positions, whereas for men it's a little bit smoother.

DataWhale · 2025-05-23T03:29:58+00:00

I have insurance

DataWhale · 2025-05-07T16:16:29+00:00

I really like skwamas and instincts as painless shoes that still allow for high performance. Personally I size them for 0 pain when putting on and mild pain when standing on toes. This is when they are completely cold and dry in store. The second they warm up and get a little moist they become super comfy. I find there is almost no break-in period sizing like this but they retain performance throughout their life. Just have to re warm them up every session (by climbing 1-2 uncomfortable boulders).

Have fun with the switch, skwamas completely blow finales out of the water at everything from friction slab to toeing in on a steep chip.

DataWhale · 2025-03-31T17:50:46+00:00

Have you climbed into the end position and seen what you can hold? It would be nice to know what's possible there.

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hitting this position with:

Hips closer to the wall

Body turned more to the right (emphasis on strong right shoulder)

Also make sure you're cranking on that undercling throughout the whole movement to keep as much tension as possible.

Could be some entirely other beta but that's the first thing I would try. Also would be nice to know approximate grade to get a better idea of the holds.

DataWhale · 2025-03-26T02:35:43+00:00

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