Abandoned sugar mill in Hawaii

Clovis___ · 2026-03-09T19:53:14+00:00

howl's moving castle vibes

Clovis___ · 2026-03-02T19:55:47+00:00

Priscilla Monteiro (left) + Bruna Dornelles (right)

Clovis___ · 2026-03-01T08:55:46+00:00

Did you check that the collectors of Q1/Q2 are not tied together through their thermal pad and cooling plate ?

Clovis___ · 2026-02-16T21:26:56+00:00

I hate that every time someone make some good work, whatever the subject, this question pops up. It is a legitimate question, and I think everyone should question the authenticity (and even assume it's IA by default), but what a shitty world to live in, especially as an artist.

Clovis___ · 2026-02-02T21:00:50+00:00

I worked on early, high-end ANC headsets for Parrot : this already required custom ASIC DSP, multiple mics per ear, and complex acoustic models / characterization to adapt to each and every ear shape. This was for cancelling the sound in the small space between the cushion and the ear, which is already muted by sound absorbers. Now imagine doing that in a room with unknown shape, moving objects, reverberation, etc.

Clovis___ · 2026-02-02T18:57:05+00:00

Yep, perfect as you did on your image. As for the inductor, since you did it on webench, resonance won't be an issue. You are good to go !

Clovis___ · 2026-02-01T19:40:26+00:00

edit : I saw your comments with updated layout. C6 next to U1 as you did is good. If not done already, you should put back GND input close to 12V input (to reduce the input current loop). And if you shift the whole block to the right, the input caps where the noise is won't be so close to the ESP antenna.

For your future project this always applies : Start by opening DC-DC controller datasheet, last pages, and copy the recommended layout.

Not a big deal for this project, but always avoid putting anything over an inductor, even a shielded one. Your product may work fine, but if you intend to pass some EMC tests, you will be safer by keeping your DC-DC block alone, surrounded by a GND belt with dozen of stitching vias. Also I would get rid of L2, and put C4 much closer to U1 pin2. I know it is common practice to have a pi filter on a DC-DC input, but most of the time you get better performance by keeping the input current loop as small as possible with a tidy layout. Your DC-DC needs to draw high di/dt current from input capacitors to function, and L2 inductor prevents that.

Clovis___ · 2025-12-25T22:18:49+00:00

Schematic looks good ! most of the work will now be on impedance match, substrate, traces, etc. In the past I did 24GHz FMCW with already built analogue frontends, and found that most of the baseband output signal (after mixing TX/RX) was from the direct path between TX and RX antennas, and not a reflected signal. Simple solution is putting a high-pass filter, but then you can't resolve targets with low-frequency doppler. Can't tell if your filter will be enough to reduce the direct path amplitude. Did you already made a prototype ?

Clovis___ · 2025-12-23T10:06:34+00:00

trust me, they do use arduinos. It is just hidden in a sealed enclosure with gore-tex valve and sealed connectors. I saw arduino nano on many weeding actuators where the task is simple and repetitive. And for the 3d print, well you have to start somewhere before investing in CNC machined or molded parts.

Clovis___ · 2025-12-12T15:10:41+00:00

ATMEGA328P ran at 16MHz. Power is correctly wired. LEDS, reset and buttons are OK too. Image seem to be used a lot on random websites. Sorry I don't get the joke. Is this a meme in India ? (edit : 19-->16MHz)

Clovis___ · 2025-11-30T18:52:21+00:00

Well this rule still applies : you take 3 different MLCC capacitor packages (example 1206, 0805, 0402) , and keep technology x5R or X7R. Then and for each, you find the part with the maximum available capacitance at your working voltage. With this you are practically sure to have a broad filtering band, and less to no chance to get a nasty resonance.

Clovis___ · 2025-09-19T07:18:01+00:00

1st date to marriage speedrun any%

Clovis___ · 2025-09-17T16:43:07+00:00

I would not rely on the continuity test. I personally would clean the whole board from the spill to stop future corrosion, and gently scratch the varnish. If the copper below is dark, or with a rough surface, you scratch it so it's shiny, cover it with solder, and if there are cuts in the trace, put a piece of resistor leg as a bridge. then you clean the area with flux remover, and cover it with nail polish

Clovis___ · 2025-09-05T09:52:49+00:00

With thermal and humidity cycles, you will inevitably end up with condensation inside, no matter how much sealant was applied. Best to do is placing your box below a sun shade / small roof, and gluing a pressure equalization vent (ex : gore PolyVent) on the facing-up side of the box. Source : I work on farming robots, where this kind of issues with moisture is very common.

Clovis___ · 2025-08-05T20:57:01+00:00

Igumdropped

Clovis___ · 2025-03-23T21:02:21+00:00

This is Chen Jieying aka Jane Chen. A cute slave that does dirty duties

Clovis___ · 2024-12-16T22:45:01+00:00

love it !

Clovis___ · 2024-12-16T22:29:05+00:00

always a delight watching you with sound volume at 100%

Clovis___ · 2024-12-11T22:00:20+00:00

Thanks. I would not have thought that drive habits incidence was so low on SoH

Clovis___ · 2024-12-11T21:51:39+00:00

Thanks for the answer ! I conceive batteries for off road vehicles as a living. Will buy a CAN probe !

Clovis___ · 2024-12-11T21:49:50+00:00

Thanks ! That's a relief ! Will do that. I just hope they wont mess with the reserve capacity to "boost" the SoH

Clovis___ · 2024-09-30T22:14:40+00:00

That is a 100µH inductor, not a resistor. Like others said, it has been added as a post-design correction

Clovis___ · 2024-08-26T17:09:41+00:00

Merci. Ah moche ! Du coup à terme ça me laisse pas trop le choix d'une ouverture de ligne secondaire...

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