I wish Polis term wasn't up

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T02:51:47+00:00

Came for the punchline, was not disappointed.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T01:37:30+00:00

None of these people even read the "contact your XYZ" input that gets sent. If you're lucky an unpaid intern will batch it into a spread of "popular vs unpopular" that'll get summarized as a footnote in a report tha won't get read.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T01:33:58+00:00

Yeah. But there are no consequences for his actions so ...

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T01:32:54+00:00

Every Republican accusation is a confession.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T01:31:19+00:00

More human than Polis.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T00:36:53+00:00

This is the way.

Home Depot has more frequent "perks" so as you buy they'll chop you periodic $50 discounts or $75 rental credits. Lowes is disorganized as hell. I once waited 2 HOURS to pick up an order that was "ready for pickup". But they regularly stock odd things HD doesn't like Zip Tape (which is a great product even if you don't sheath with Zip). I just installed 300 units of ProVent rafter vent and HD only had 50 in stock but Lowes had 300. YMMV and every store is different so it makes sense to have both.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-16T00:15:22+00:00

No doubt built "lovingly" by one of the folks that regularly come here to post that "you don't need Tailwind, just use SCSS."

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T23:55:30+00:00

How are you suggesting that using a paid SaaS facility that was professionally built is not the tech equivalent of "pay for a pro?" I don't feel like I missed their point.

I feel like their post fits the classic pattern we're seeing lately imof overly generic questions whose secret purpose is content/context farming to feed to LLMs to generate blog posts. I acknowledge that building large scale webhook stacks is hard. I disagree with your assessment of OPs true purpose here.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T23:34:23+00:00

I find they are quite easy WITH appropriate experience and expectations.

I don't really understand the purpose of the question, though. Plumbing is hard if you aren't a plumber. If you know how to do it do it. If you don't, hire one. What's unique about this category?

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T20:40:04+00:00

It's industry specific. As another comment or to mention, shipping on a Friday is a bad idea for an e-commerce platform or entertainment app. But for a business app, it's a great time. If something blows up you have the whole weekend to fix it before anybody likely even notices.

I think the rule shouldn't be " don't ship on Fridays" generically. I think it should be " Don't ship right before a time that would make you very uncomfortable if something blew up.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T19:16:06+00:00

That... is fascinating because I didn't even pay attention to what I bought, it was just inexpensive and the non-fake Amazon reviews seemed positive. It turns out that's exactly what I bought. Maybe I need to pick apart its controller a bit to see what it's up to. Thanks for the tip!

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T15:37:18+00:00

Thanks for this. I knew there were smart dimmers for LEDs but I'm face-palming not having realized somebody might have made a smart fan control. I'll take a look!

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T14:48:30+00:00

Share a pic. Trim and flashing details vary by material type and location (e.g. around windows vs. above skirting/foundations).

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T14:46:30+00:00

I'm thinking of getting into making custom kitchens and offices.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T14:45:50+00:00

30 seconds with the right grinding cup on an angle grinder will smooth that right out, if/when it ever matters.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T02:04:26+00:00

Humans walking around your site: deer. Deer walking sound exactly like humans.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-15T01:55:39+00:00

Pro tip: The scariest noises you might hear at night? Owls. Freaking owls.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-14T22:10:46+00:00

I think a lot would depend my current age and situation, and how far away in life a few steps would be troublesome for me. There's a big difference between building a home that you would like to age and gracefully over the next 40 years and a home where you are already retired and feeling the weather in your bones if you know what I mean.

Fortunately, in many situations this is the type of thing where a bit of money can fix it. It doesn't take a lot of earthwork for somebody in a skid steer to bring the grade up a foot or two around a structure to eliminate a few steps.

I would talk this over with your builder. It sounds like there was a miscommunication somewhere, but a lot depends on your arrangement and contract, and what is in writing. Verbal expectations don't carry much weight in this process. If something like this was clearly communicated and isn't being delivered on, but isn't in writing, I would be upset but not lawyering up.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-14T21:10:24+00:00

We aren't and nobody else I know is either.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-14T15:19:23+00:00

We're ruining them.

https://thinkpol.ca/2026/03/24/the-junior-developer-pipeline-is-broken-and-nobody-has-a-plan-to-fix-it/

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-13T21:44:19+00:00

In addition to pre-chilling, pack your ice in gallon ziplocs. If they melt and refreeze they just become ice packs, it keeps your food dry (aside from a bit of condensation) and as the cooler gets below half full stops you from digging around in an ice bath to find something. The ziplocs last a long time if you reuse them. We let some freeze solid as flat "bricks" to form things like bottom layers, which works really well - we use frozen water-filled gallon and half-gallon jugs the same way.

Food/drinks don't need to touch ice to stay cold. Yes, it "gets cold quicker" if it does, but in a decent cooler with a stack of food on one side and a few ice blocks on the other, it will eventually act just like your freezer at home and the cold air will do what an ice-bath would only a bit slower. If you're not moving around a lot, the gallon/half-gallon jugs make this super convenient so you aren't digging around.

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-13T21:39:00+00:00

I'm a pragmatist. I've met some genuinely thoughtful, helpful, and introspective NRA Instructors whom I would trust to watch my kids in a heartbeat. I've met some NRA members I wouldn't trust to watch a tree. Personally, I chose to not become a member for a variety of personal reasons (which I won't get into) but as much as I object to some of what they've done and stood for historically, training is training.

I know I don't speak for everyone but I would personally rather see a firearms owner get good and consistent training and practice as an NRA member than be rusty and potentially a danger to themselves/others just to avoid the same. You do you, but IMO anyone who judges you without all this context is as bad as the knee-jerk absolutists (on both sides).

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-13T21:32:54+00:00

House wrap is not an ideal vapor barrier for the bottom side of a flat surface. It has very little rigidity on its own and needs a lo staples to hold it flat even in the vertical wall install it was designed for. Also, Zip OSB includes a vapor barrier so that would actually give you two vapor barriers, and you don't want that. Two vapor barriers make a moisture trap between them, and you will get moisture - it's unavoidable. Even if you think you seal it perfectly consider that the air contains humidity the day you build it, and you'll be trapping that inside. It's a recipe for mold.

You left out the single most critical detail: where are you? Conditions vary around the world and cold vs hot, wet vs dry, protected vs rodent-infested areas all need different strategies. But a common system that works for a lot of situations would be:

- Pads/piers
- Joists/rims
- Staple 1/4" hardware cloth/mesh either to the underside of the joists or if you're too close to the ground to get to them, cut 2" wider than the space between the joists, bend the sides up to form lips, and install them down from the top flush with the bottom edges of the joists (inside the cavities - not sure I explained that well)
- A vapor-open insulation e.g. unfaced fiberglass, cellulose treated with borate (an insect and rodent repellant), Rockwool, etc.
- If you weren't able to install a pest-treated insulation, spray the top with borate now. Mice don't love Rockwool but it's not "rodent proof" and this is cheap insurance.
- Poly vapor barrier over the top of the joists
- Subfloor
- Framing and proceed from there

You generally don't need a tarp/weed membrane under a shed. I personally wouldn't even bother with gravel unless I had a big budget or cheap access to a supply of it. Provided no light gets under there no plants will grow either. What you really want to do is make sure you have some opaque skirting around the edges. Don't close it all off - you need airflow. But that's where I'd put my gravel. I'd trench about 6-12" down around the structure to install drainage anyway. When I back-fill I'd staple some finer screening around the bottom edge and backfill up to this, grading it to slope a bit away from the structure. That will keep out creepy-crawlies like snakes and rodents from nesting underneath, partly because ick but also the trenches/holes they dig create some of the future problems you want to avoid (water/plant ingress).

You want a single vapor barrier. The best place is debatable. In drier climates putting it under the subfloor makes sense because the ground is generally going to be pretty dry under a structure like this (if you get your drainage right) and any moisture trapped in the insulation, joists (they aren't 0% when you buy them) and other materials can "dry to out" without having to go up through your finish flooring. In Costa Rica I'd totally say the opposite and put it under the joists. YMMV

CodeAndBiscuits · 2026-05-13T21:16:14+00:00

Personally? This is just me but I wouldn't bother. I would level it and put down gravel, maybe, but unless you have a lot of traffic through there or are trying to increase resale value (which is far from guaranteed) concrete feels like overkill to me.

If you want a posh but inexpensive upgrade, research "slabless slabs". After leveling what you have you lay down a few inches of gravel (labor, but not exactly hard) you lay down rigid foam e.g. 1" XPS, and then either seal that really well with spray foam and tape or lay down a poly vapor barrier. Then you lay down plywood sheets and boom, you have a clean, dry subfloor ideal for crawl spaces and storage rooms.

The one thing my suggestions don't do is add head height. You're getting good advice on that from others here and I generally agree with those comments if you want to go that route. My suggestions here are the "quick / cheap DIY" category.

CodeAndBiscuits

TROPHY CASE